Boost Controller help wheel spin?
11-26-2011, 10:26 AM
#1
Boost Controller help wheel spin?
OK...I'm new to this turbo building thing here. I was talking with the shop that will be building my turbo and I told him that I did not want the car to be boosting during my daily drive and he said he would do 9.0:1 pistons with a .020 overbore, connecting rods, new valve springs/retainers and then he was talking about a custom turbo setup with a 66/67 turbo and said they could delete the MAF and all this stuff I didn't understand. He said the 66/67 turbo is kind of laggy but would be good for what I want and it would not spool until around 4k all the way to redline that way it wont even see boost during my daily drive. Told me that I could make 450-500hp on about 16 PSI and engine would be fine. My concern is crazy wheel spin. I have a 350z Haltech Platinum pro that is wired up with a harness to PnP right into the 02 Maxima ECU. I was reading about the Haltech and it says it has open and closed loop boost control functions on it. Can you use this boost control to kind of help the wheel spin? So all the boost just doesn't come on at once and rip the tires off the ground? I'm still learning so don't be too hard on me here. I'm trying to research but it difficult on the internet...I seen some boost controls that look at throttle position, rpms, and gears that you are in. I just don't want to spin all the gears up to 4th that would be a waste. What good is all that power if you can't put it to the ground!
11-26-2011, 11:31 AM
#2
A boost controller will just control boost not wheel spin that's up to your right foot. 3rd gear will be the only gear that will have a remote chance of hooking. 1st and 2nd will be rendered useless.
Also you are gonna have to be more specific on what turbo you are planing on using 66/67 can mean anything.
Also you are gonna have to be more specific on what turbo you are planing on using 66/67 can mean anything.
11-26-2011, 11:44 AM
#3
A boost controller will just control boost not wheel spin that's up to your right foot. 3rd gear will be the only gear that will have a remote chance of hooking. 1st and 2nd will be rendered useless.
Also you are gonna have to be more specific on what turbo you are planing on using 66/67 can mean anything.
Also you are gonna have to be more specific on what turbo you are planing on using 66/67 can mean anything.
11-26-2011, 03:29 PM
#4
at that power level you can't do anything about wheel spin. Real sticky tires and good driver is all you can do. Iv had a laggy setup and still had issues, can only enjoy the car from a 60 roll depending on pavement, iv spun at that speed before going slow into the gas, and if its already spinning it won't catch unless I let off n start over lol.
11-26-2011, 04:40 PM
#5
GARBAGE!!! Man....I'm going to reconsider this turbo thing. Waste spending all that money and lose 1st and 2nd gear and ONLY can enjoy the car from a 60 mhph roll?? It's a daily driver hardly even do things like that anyway unless I'm on the freeway. I think I might just go ahead and get a NA 4.2L stroker short block from GTM, throw some cams in and call it a day!!! Probably get like around 380hp if I did that! From the answers I'm getting from everyone N/A is going to be more fun to drive as a daily driver anyway.
11-26-2011, 05:33 PM
#6
I don't think it will be as drastic as you are thinking, like it has been said, it's up to your right foot whether you get into boost quickly or not. I think at highway speeds boost will come more quickly but the car won't be out of control daily driving it. If you stomp on the gas just be prepared for the results. Besides just about everybody says starting out they don't want to boost alot.
11-26-2011, 08:20 PM
#7
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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I have a turbo 5.5 gen and for the last month I have been daily driving it to work 70 miles round trip without one issue. When you are just cruising and driving normal you will not be in boost that much. You will really not be hampered daily driving if everything is setup correctly. Now, when you go WOT, it's a different story. You will have some trouble putting that power to the ground, but that is going to be the case with most any car at that power level. It's not going to make the car that unjoyable to drive, trust me.
For reference I am using a T3/60-1 and its boost controlled at 8psi.
For reference I am using a T3/60-1 and its boost controlled at 8psi.
11-27-2011, 07:03 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 459
Man, its all in the right foot. Just because you have 400 horses dont mean your going to start spinning everytime you put the car into first gear. If you want it to spin it will. Just leave up on the pedal.
Just like nismomaxct said, I also drive mine without a problem. It dont spin unless I want it to. But whats nice is if you want the additional power, it there. But it up to you.
The boost controler in nice cause I have a high and low setting. You could set the low boost setting around say 5 psi and the high setting around 10 psi and control how much power that way, too.
Just like nismomaxct said, I also drive mine without a problem. It dont spin unless I want it to. But whats nice is if you want the additional power, it there. But it up to you.
The boost controler in nice cause I have a high and low setting. You could set the low boost setting around say 5 psi and the high setting around 10 psi and control how much power that way, too.
11-27-2011, 01:01 PM
#9
I say be smart about this, your going to put down all the money for a built 4.2L and only have 300something HP. For that you stay how you are now and put some nitrous.
I say go with the turbo, get good tires, and enjoy the car. If you ever track it, get slicks.
I say go with the turbo, get good tires, and enjoy the car. If you ever track it, get slicks.
11-27-2011, 07:23 PM
#10
You are right. The all motor build will be about $4k more than the turbo and wont net anywhere near the same power. Perhaps I can do like 1swtmax did and have a boost controller with a low setting 6PSI and then a high setting like 14PSI as well. Just worried about losing all my low end torque with those 9.0:1 pistons. The shop said after they tune it I wont really notice the difference. Anyone else have experience with low compression pistons and low end torque?
11-27-2011, 10:43 PM
#11
the difference is unnoticeable.
also just because you have 500hp doesn't mean you have to use it. learn to modulate the throttle. if you don't, you wouldn't have traction at 300whp, let alone 500.
also just because you have 500hp doesn't mean you have to use it. learn to modulate the throttle. if you don't, you wouldn't have traction at 300whp, let alone 500.
11-28-2011, 10:58 AM
#12
You are just going to need real sticky tires and modulation of the gas pedal to get any traction. This goes for 300whp or more. That is why IMO it is pointless to play the numbers game and try to achieve absurd dyno numbers when that much power is useless.
Personally I think safe stock vq35 block numbers are the best.
Personally I think safe stock vq35 block numbers are the best.
11-28-2011, 11:57 AM
#13
that's what i'd be doing. run 350-400whp at first on a stock motor and have fun with it, maybe shoot for 450whp once you really know what you're doing (if you get that far before you get tired of it). any more than that and you're going to be breaking 6spds, or at least having to worry about breaking one every time you get into the gas. that **** is NOT fun. I did that for a couple years. at 400whp in a maxima you can whack just about anything on the road from a roll. put slicks on and go to the track and run low 12s-high 11s.
cutting your teeth on a built VQ usually ends up with a very expensive paper weight. save that $2000-4000 for your next vehicle.
cutting your teeth on a built VQ usually ends up with a very expensive paper weight. save that $2000-4000 for your next vehicle.
11-28-2011, 02:17 PM
#14
that's what i'd be doing. run 350-400whp at first on a stock motor and have fun with it, maybe shoot for 450whp once you really know what you're doing (if you get that far before you get tired of it). any more than that and you're going to be breaking 6spds, or at least having to worry about breaking one every time you get into the gas. that **** is NOT fun. I did that for a couple years. at 400whp in a maxima you can whack just about anything on the road from a roll. put slicks on and go to the track and run low 12s-high 11s.
cutting your teeth on a built VQ usually ends up with a very expensive paper weight. save that $2000-4000 for your next vehicle.
cutting your teeth on a built VQ usually ends up with a very expensive paper weight. save that $2000-4000 for your next vehicle.
Boost the stock motor and start saving for a better platform
11-28-2011, 03:49 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 459
Well said Tom. I know now looking back on things. I wish I would of bought a 370z then started to play the turbo game. But now I have bigger plans, CTS-V.
11-28-2011, 07:22 PM
#16
that's what i'd be doing. run 350-400whp at first on a stock motor and have fun with it, maybe shoot for 450whp once you really know what you're doing (if you get that far before you get tired of it). any more than that and you're going to be breaking 6spds, or at least having to worry about breaking one every time you get into the gas. that **** is NOT fun. I did that for a couple years. at 400whp in a maxima you can whack just about anything on the road from a roll. put slicks on and go to the track and run low 12s-high 11s.
cutting your teeth on a built VQ usually ends up with a very expensive paper weight. save that $2000-4000 for your next vehicle.
cutting your teeth on a built VQ usually ends up with a very expensive paper weight. save that $2000-4000 for your next vehicle.
11-29-2011, 05:24 AM
#17
Torque is what bends the rods on the vq35. Most of the stock block 350z/g35 are around 400whp and 350tq and that is considered a safe. Here is a good read on my350z.
http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...for-noobs.html
BTW here is a build you might be interested in,
http://www.dynosty.com/2011/09/maxim...o-vq35de-swap/
http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...for-noobs.html
BTW here is a build you might be interested in,
http://www.dynosty.com/2011/09/maxim...o-vq35de-swap/
11-29-2011, 07:04 AM
#18
You are right. The all motor build will be about $4k more than the turbo and wont net anywhere near the same power. Perhaps I can do like 1swtmax did and have a boost controller with a low setting 6PSI and then a high setting like 14PSI as well. Just worried about losing all my low end torque with those 9.0:1 pistons. The shop said after they tune it I wont really notice the difference. Anyone else have experience with low compression pistons and low end torque?
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...cat=385&page=1
if you buy one prebuilt its $25,000, seriously. Not on a maxima too much money for unusable power.
11-29-2011, 09:58 AM
#19
I made a little over 340whp and was good for mid 12's. I only went thru 1 trans in the time of owning it and had countless races under my belt. It can be a fun car but u have to now the limits of the platform.
11-29-2011, 10:23 AM
#20
Thanks for everyone's input. I think I'm going to stick with the STOCK motor and boost about 6-8PSI on that and call it a day. I think it will make good numbers especially with the custom manifold from SFR, 09 Maxima TB and the 3" exhaust. The shop also told me that the cattman headers that I have would help too and they could do a custom setup using the headers. So with that I think I'll be fine then I can just save for a 370z.
11-29-2011, 10:27 AM
#21
Have you seen the price GTM kits? Let me send you a link to one:
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...cat=385&page=1
if you buy one prebuilt its $25,000, seriously. Not on a maxima too much money for unusable power.
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...cat=385&page=1
if you buy one prebuilt its $25,000, seriously. Not on a maxima too much money for unusable power.
11-29-2011, 10:36 AM
#22
Stock motor and run on waste-gate spring at first. If that is not enough, get a boost controller and up the power.
Btw are you using the Haltech 350z Platinum and the Haltech dual-wideband kit?
Btw are you using the Haltech 350z Platinum and the Haltech dual-wideband kit?
11-29-2011, 10:45 AM
#24
11-29-2011, 10:53 AM
#25
11-29-2011, 11:42 AM
#26
The 4.2L long block they had was $13k......still WAYYY too much. I actually called them the other day to ask them some questions about their short block builds because I was interested in that 3.8L short block and perhaps even the 4.2L short block. Some dude was on the phone VERY unfriendly...he just wanted to get off the phone, he was rushing my questions and gave me short answers ie; "yeah" "no" "depends" crap like that! No other information, what a dyck...just cost them a sale. I'll spend my money elsewhere! RT Tuning and PSI Proformance are NEVER like that when I call to ask questions.
11-29-2011, 03:38 PM
#29
11-29-2011, 05:25 PM
#30
I will be using a 350z Haltech Platinum and it comes with open/closed loop electronic boost control built in, you just need to buy the solenoid. I don't have the dual wideband kit. Should I invest in that as well?
Last edited by ranmas2004; 11-29-2011 at 05:31 PM.
11-29-2011, 07:59 PM
#31
The haltech offers alot of features that are great. It does have open/closed boost control built into it but you do need a solenoid for it to work.
Solenoid
http://www.injectedperformance.com/i...olsolenoid.htm
The dual wideband kit should be a standard item since you use the haltech sensors to run the car and never have to worry about the oem o2 sensors.
http://www.injectedperformance.com/h...trollerkit.htm
Solenoid
http://www.injectedperformance.com/i...olsolenoid.htm
The dual wideband kit should be a standard item since you use the haltech sensors to run the car and never have to worry about the oem o2 sensors.
http://www.injectedperformance.com/h...trollerkit.htm
11-30-2011, 03:22 AM
#32
With some of the prices I seen recently you ever think about getting a 350z with high mileage or a blown engine. You could do a standard rebuilt with forged pistons, rods, hr headgasket and bolts, boost it and make 500 all day
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