Possible part out....
02-03-2012, 03:00 PM
#41
Don't forget he'll need to get the cylinders either bored or honed depending on the condition . Then set the ring gap and measure the cylinders if bored and get the correct size pistons. Have the crank turned or atleast polished, get matching bearings and have the rods resized if needed. Last spec the bearing clearance then put it all together.
02-03-2012, 03:12 PM
#42
I've never had a garage and I've lost count of the motor swaps Ive done. I say just drop a stocker in and enjoy the car again. I felt the same way when I blew my motor in my Z 2 months ago. I was ready to part it out and get rid of it but Im glad I didnt. Im actually going to be tearing down my old motor this weekend to see how bad the damage was.
02-04-2012, 04:47 PM
#43
I've never had a garage and I've lost count of the motor swaps Ive done. I say just drop a stocker in and enjoy the car again. I felt the same way when I blew my motor in my Z 2 months ago. I was ready to part it out and get rid of it but Im glad I didnt. Im actually going to be tearing down my old motor this weekend to see how bad the damage was.
02-04-2012, 05:14 PM
#45
Im really just debating on finding a used motor and swapping over,.... not sure if I would put the rev up cams back in though.
If I can recover my money back from the build I would probably just go with the JWT S1 cams with upgraded valve springs and head bolts.
I definatley want a 7+ rev limiter. I had picked up a JWT FI ecu a couple of weeks ago and planned on running it for its base tune and extended rev limiter and then just using the EU for fine tuning.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 02-04-2012 at 05:16 PM.
02-04-2012, 05:44 PM
#46
LOL, I have ceramic tile and wooden floors, I dont think they would hold up to the steel wheels rolling around on them with the weight of the motor, plus my wife would go insane having a motor sitting in the house like that.
Im really just debating on finding a used motor and swapping over,.... not sure if I would put the rev up cams back in though.
If I can recover my money back from the build I would probably just go with the JWT S1 cams with upgraded valve springs and head bolts.
I definatley want a 7+ rev limiter. I had picked up a JWT FI ecu a couple of weeks ago and planned on running it for its base tune and extended rev limiter and then just using the EU for fine tuning.
Im really just debating on finding a used motor and swapping over,.... not sure if I would put the rev up cams back in though.
If I can recover my money back from the build I would probably just go with the JWT S1 cams with upgraded valve springs and head bolts.
I definatley want a 7+ rev limiter. I had picked up a JWT FI ecu a couple of weeks ago and planned on running it for its base tune and extended rev limiter and then just using the EU for fine tuning.
02-04-2012, 05:54 PM
#47
LOL, I have ceramic tile and wooden floors, I dont think they would hold up to the steel wheels rolling around on them with the weight of the motor, plus my wife would go insane having a motor sitting in the house like that.
Im really just debating on finding a used motor and swapping over,.... not sure if I would put the rev up cams back in though.
If I can recover my money back from the build I would probably just go with the JWT S1 cams with upgraded valve springs and head bolts.
I definatley want a 7+ rev limiter. I had picked up a JWT FI ecu a couple of weeks ago and planned on running it for its base tune and extended rev limiter and then just using the EU for fine tuning.
Im really just debating on finding a used motor and swapping over,.... not sure if I would put the rev up cams back in though.
If I can recover my money back from the build I would probably just go with the JWT S1 cams with upgraded valve springs and head bolts.
I definatley want a 7+ rev limiter. I had picked up a JWT FI ecu a couple of weeks ago and planned on running it for its base tune and extended rev limiter and then just using the EU for fine tuning.
02-04-2012, 06:33 PM
#48
did you specify to stephen-max that you were gonna use the cams for an FI setup? usually when he makes cam spacers for the DEK he sets the timing the same as the DEK, so even then the revup cams have 6 degrees overlap, the only benefit you get is from lift and duration. You can tell him to make custom ones to retain the -4 degrees overlap so that you'll fully benefit from them.
When I bought the adapters, this is what he told me..
"I am make the adapters with a 4 degree advance angle compared to the VQ30 cams. The four degrees results in the same intake-exhaust valve overlap as the VQ30 setup. This is done because the exhaust valve opening and closing times are different between the VQ30 and the VQ35"
So should I have told him to make them different?
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 02-04-2012 at 06:37 PM.
02-05-2012, 05:02 PM
#50
Stephen knows Im boosted, hes local to me and Ive known him for a while. My original boost setup was actually his old setup.
When I bought the adapters, this is what he told me..
"I am make the adapters with a 4 degree advance angle compared to the VQ30 cams. The four degrees results in the same intake-exhaust valve overlap as the VQ30 setup. This is done because the exhaust valve opening and closing times are different between the VQ30 and the VQ35"
So should I have told him to make them different?
When I bought the adapters, this is what he told me..
"I am make the adapters with a 4 degree advance angle compared to the VQ30 cams. The four degrees results in the same intake-exhaust valve overlap as the VQ30 setup. This is done because the exhaust valve opening and closing times are different between the VQ30 and the VQ35"
So should I have told him to make them different?
You should have told him to make em so that they will have the stock vq35 times. You want the exhaust valve opening and closing times as in the vq35, which happens with -4 degrees overlap, for your application.
So i'd suggest since you gotta rebuild anyways, have another set made and you'll see greater improvement with the rev ups.
02-07-2012, 07:51 AM
#53
So Im going to have to go to court if I want my money back, which I do!
So I will have to begin tearing off the top end and removing the timing chain cover to inspect the components to determine where the failure occured and the source.
Im going to ask my buddy to overlook everything and give me his opinion on what caused the failure. If it was in fact due to assembly Im going to ask him if he will provide a written statement listing that along with his current occupation and credentials to supoort his statement that way its one mechanics word against another versus just mine.
So, until then i dont plan on putting any money towards the car until the court case is completed. If I win, then that money will be applied towards the car, if not then at that time I will begin saving to put in another motor and determine if I will sell it as is or continue on with the car.
Ive just gone through so much with this car and its been down for most of last year. This will be the third time to pull the motor out in that time frame, and its really just wearing me down emotionally. The whole situation is just causing me so much stress, from one bad motor to another.
02-07-2012, 08:22 AM
#54
Spoke to the builder and he is wiping his hands of it, he is dead set on claiming the failure was due to the valve springs being to stiif and applying too much pressure tothe valves resulting in the breakage without even wanting to view it.
So Im going to have to go to court if I want my money back, which I do!
So I will have to begin tearing off the top end and removing the timing chain cover to inspect the components to determine where the failure occured and the source.
Im going to ask my buddy to overlook everything and give me his opinion on what caused the failure. If it was in fact due to assembly Im going to ask him if he will provide a written statement listing that along with his current occupation and credentials to supoort his statement that way its one mechanics word against another versus just mine.
So, until then i dont plan on putting any money towards the car until the court case is completed. If I win, then that money will be applied towards the car, if not then at that time I will begin saving to put in another motor and determine if I will sell it as is or continue on with the car.
Ive just gone through so much with this car and its been down for most of last year. This will be the third time to pull the motor out in that time frame, and its really just wearing me down emotionally. The whole situation is just causing me so much stress, from one bad motor to another.
So Im going to have to go to court if I want my money back, which I do!
So I will have to begin tearing off the top end and removing the timing chain cover to inspect the components to determine where the failure occured and the source.
Im going to ask my buddy to overlook everything and give me his opinion on what caused the failure. If it was in fact due to assembly Im going to ask him if he will provide a written statement listing that along with his current occupation and credentials to supoort his statement that way its one mechanics word against another versus just mine.
So, until then i dont plan on putting any money towards the car until the court case is completed. If I win, then that money will be applied towards the car, if not then at that time I will begin saving to put in another motor and determine if I will sell it as is or continue on with the car.
Ive just gone through so much with this car and its been down for most of last year. This will be the third time to pull the motor out in that time frame, and its really just wearing me down emotionally. The whole situation is just causing me so much stress, from one bad motor to another.
02-07-2012, 09:36 AM
#55
Agreed, JWT sells cam and upgraded valve springs and doesnt mention any need for upgraded valves.
02-07-2012, 02:41 PM
#58
but you should deff do a built 3.5 thats my .02 after you get your money back. this shop you got the build done at was just trying to make a quick buck and they should give you every cent back that you gave them just for the bs they gave you
02-08-2012, 10:22 AM
#60
No interest in doing a 3.5 swap, if I so I wouldve done so instead of doing the rebuilt 3.0
At this point Im not even interested in doing a rebuild of the 3.0, so a used 3.0 will just go back in once everything has been resolved.
At this point Im not even interested in doing a rebuild of the 3.0, so a used 3.0 will just go back in once everything has been resolved.
02-08-2012, 01:53 PM
#61
to me rebuilding a 3.0 with stock parts is pointless. 3.5 is the way to go because of the many pistons and rods that there are for it. now you can have a setup like mine which is a 02-03 3.5 block and pathfinder heads (because the 3.0 manifolds bolt right up to it just like it were 3.0 heads so this way it would be plug n play with the iac ect...) and you wont have any issues at all. i have wiseco pistons and eagle rods so i can have a boost friendly motor what seems like what you wanted to try to do by rebuilding. but this is just thoughts for the future when you decide to build again
02-08-2012, 02:17 PM
#62
to me rebuilding a 3.0 with stock parts is pointless. 3.5 is the way to go because of the many pistons and rods that there are for it. now you can have a setup like mine which is a 02-03 3.5 block and pathfinder heads (because the 3.0 manifolds bolt right up to it just like it were 3.0 heads so this way it would be plug n play with the iac ect...) and you wont have any issues at all. i have wiseco pistons and eagle rods so i can have a boost friendly motor what seems like what you wanted to try to do by rebuilding. but this is just thoughts for the future when you decide to build again
Our motors have proved to hold up to good power (when assembled correctly) as is.
After all, the car is still a FWD platform and at 350-400whp traction is already a joke. What good does it do to build up a rock solid motor capable of making much greater power if traction is still an issue?
02-08-2012, 05:18 PM
#63
Meh, I had the motor built just for the fact that I wanted a fresh motor that I had planned on having for a long time. Like Ive mentioned before Ive already had this car since 97 and had planned on keeping it for quite a bit longer. Not sure now. I didnt have it built to be a high HP bullet proof beast or else I wouldve done forged pistons and etc. which I dont really see the point in.
Our motors have proved to hold up to good power (when assembled correctly) as is.
After all, the car is still a FWD platform and at 350-400whp traction is already a joke. What good does it do to build up a rock solid motor capable of making much greater power if traction is still an issue?
Our motors have proved to hold up to good power (when assembled correctly) as is.
After all, the car is still a FWD platform and at 350-400whp traction is already a joke. What good does it do to build up a rock solid motor capable of making much greater power if traction is still an issue?
02-14-2012, 08:41 AM
#67
02-14-2012, 09:10 AM
#68
so this coming from someone who is very low in the community, especially the s/c community, you cant let this die man, this car is insane. i love everything about it, that is a ****ty deal for sure, and i understand how having to yank an engine all the time is annoying, i work in the auto industry and cant stand wrenching on my own vehicles anymore.
but if you can find the right builder that wont be a complete asshat about him making a mistake or even if its not his mistake trying to make it right somewhow, then it will be back up an moving solid for tons more years.
if your burt out on it, just give it a couple months, free yourself headache for a little bit til your motivation comes back, car is pure sex man, for real.
if you wanted to do just a fresh build, why did you go the different valve train? i dont think your whole engine is toast because of it, so if its pulled i would inspect the piston and head and if there is no real damage, get some new valves and call it a day, i think you may have just gotten a weak valve and when it snapped, it busted into a bunch of pieces when the piston slapped it, but then again, could be something with the adapters or springs or what not. have your buddy check it out, i would like to see what the cause is, if you can tell.
but if you can find the right builder that wont be a complete asshat about him making a mistake or even if its not his mistake trying to make it right somewhow, then it will be back up an moving solid for tons more years.
if your burt out on it, just give it a couple months, free yourself headache for a little bit til your motivation comes back, car is pure sex man, for real.
if you wanted to do just a fresh build, why did you go the different valve train? i dont think your whole engine is toast because of it, so if its pulled i would inspect the piston and head and if there is no real damage, get some new valves and call it a day, i think you may have just gotten a weak valve and when it snapped, it busted into a bunch of pieces when the piston slapped it, but then again, could be something with the adapters or springs or what not. have your buddy check it out, i would like to see what the cause is, if you can tell.
Last edited by NSMO240; 02-14-2012 at 09:16 AM.
02-15-2012, 11:16 AM
#70
I am all about "no replacement for displacement" considering that my maxima replacement packs 8.3L. I personally would have done 3.5SC as I did 5 years ago. However, there are many custom changes that must occur as already mentioned (EGR remove/modding, harness modding, SC Charge pipe changes, throttle body, IACV, etc.) Ralph has dropped more than a fair amount of money on this 3.0, and his setup should be running refreshed and flawless at this point.
I stand with Ralph in that a SC 3.0 will easily overpower that chassis, and hence no need for the 3.5 in his case.
03-15-2012, 02:25 AM
#72
Flava,
I was wondering if you took a look at the motor yet....
I noticed you said it was an exhaust valve, you have rev-up cams and a 3.0L...
When I rebuilt my motor, I noticed the rev-ups should not work in a 3.0L without modifications on the exhaust cam side. The 3.0L head seems like it cannot oil the exhaust side cam bearings with the stock set up. McSteve knows what I am referring to.
My theory is that the exhaust cam seized and possibly the dowel pins on the cam broke and or pulled out a bit.
I'm just curious if this ended up to be the case. If you can fill us in that would be great.
I was wondering if you took a look at the motor yet....
I noticed you said it was an exhaust valve, you have rev-up cams and a 3.0L...
When I rebuilt my motor, I noticed the rev-ups should not work in a 3.0L without modifications on the exhaust cam side. The 3.0L head seems like it cannot oil the exhaust side cam bearings with the stock set up. McSteve knows what I am referring to.
My theory is that the exhaust cam seized and possibly the dowel pins on the cam broke and or pulled out a bit.
I'm just curious if this ended up to be the case. If you can fill us in that would be great.
03-19-2012, 07:43 AM
#73
Flava,
I was wondering if you took a look at the motor yet....
I noticed you said it was an exhaust valve, you have rev-up cams and a 3.0L...
When I rebuilt my motor, I noticed the rev-ups should not work in a 3.0L without modifications on the exhaust cam side. The 3.0L head seems like it cannot oil the exhaust side cam bearings with the stock set up. McSteve knows what I am referring to.
My theory is that the exhaust cam seized and possibly the dowel pins on the cam broke and or pulled out a bit.
I'm just curious if this ended up to be the case. If you can fill us in that would be great.
I was wondering if you took a look at the motor yet....
I noticed you said it was an exhaust valve, you have rev-up cams and a 3.0L...
When I rebuilt my motor, I noticed the rev-ups should not work in a 3.0L without modifications on the exhaust cam side. The 3.0L head seems like it cannot oil the exhaust side cam bearings with the stock set up. McSteve knows what I am referring to.
My theory is that the exhaust cam seized and possibly the dowel pins on the cam broke and or pulled out a bit.
I'm just curious if this ended up to be the case. If you can fill us in that would be great.
04-10-2012, 12:41 PM
#76
Not much of an update, time has been scarce.
Pulled the motor and have removed the valve covers, timing chain cover and oil pan.
It looks like either the valve clearance wasnt set correctly or the cam timing was off.Bothexhaust valves broke for that cylinder, one valve made it out the back through the muffler and the other is wedged up in the exhaust port of the head with the remaining pieces making their way into the oil pan.
It looks as if the valves stayed open too long smacking against the piston which resulted in jarring the cam assembly upwards smashing the shim up against the cam lobe destroying both the shim, cam spacer, and left the cam lobe riding on the bucket sao the lobe is also marred.
I plan on removing the heads this week.
These are the pics I have so far,...
Cam lobe on bucket, shim is below it next to head bolt.
Shim
cam spacer
damaged cam lobe
Broken valve in head
Pulled the motor and have removed the valve covers, timing chain cover and oil pan.
It looks like either the valve clearance wasnt set correctly or the cam timing was off.Bothexhaust valves broke for that cylinder, one valve made it out the back through the muffler and the other is wedged up in the exhaust port of the head with the remaining pieces making their way into the oil pan.
It looks as if the valves stayed open too long smacking against the piston which resulted in jarring the cam assembly upwards smashing the shim up against the cam lobe destroying both the shim, cam spacer, and left the cam lobe riding on the bucket sao the lobe is also marred.
I plan on removing the heads this week.
These are the pics I have so far,...
Cam lobe on bucket, shim is below it next to head bolt.
Shim
cam spacer
damaged cam lobe
Broken valve in head
04-10-2012, 01:40 PM
#78
I wasnt involved in any of it, I paid someone to do the build and install. He basicly called me and told me it was ready to be picked up.
04-10-2012, 01:56 PM
#80
