Sputter/power loss under load
02-22-2012, 06:11 PM
#41
Holy cow!!! Where are u? (Sorry, it doesn't show on the phone) boneyard down here in San Diego only charged me 20.00!!! = )
There's a place here in Diego called "All Japanese" and he gets 5th gens quite often. Most of his prices are reasonable... Some stuff he's ridiculous on... For example, he wants 40.00 for struts, but 25bucks for the air-inlet hose... Anyways, the number there is: (619) 656-2590 if anyone is interested in calling them... Good luck y'all. And thanks everyone, I've learned a ton from reading everyone's problems and posts!
There's a place here in Diego called "All Japanese" and he gets 5th gens quite often. Most of his prices are reasonable... Some stuff he's ridiculous on... For example, he wants 40.00 for struts, but 25bucks for the air-inlet hose... Anyways, the number there is: (619) 656-2590 if anyone is interested in calling them... Good luck y'all. And thanks everyone, I've learned a ton from reading everyone's problems and posts!
02-23-2012, 02:13 AM
#42
You could always use 4th gen coils on the front to diagnose. And mix the others around to maybe find a culprit assuming not all of them are bad. Dont "newer" dek coils have a dot on them or something?
02-26-2012, 11:50 AM
#43
Update: I took the car out for a good hour today just to kind of further diag it. The car pulls hard till about 3800/4k and that's when the sputter and power loss kicks in.
Looking at the NEO it will only miss when the rpm's are above 3800/4k if throttle is at least 50% or more but if you keep it under 50% throttle you can bring it to redline without a miss and it's smooth as silk. I tried a fifth gear WOT pull from 1500 rpm's and the car did not miss untill 4k or so.
Im not sure where to go from here. I can't find used coils anywhere for a descent price and kind of want to make sure it is a coil before i have to suck it up and buy new ones. My mechanic says he has some kind of way to determine which cylinder is missing with his Snap On Solus even though its a random miss so he wants to try that first and see if we can't figure it out.
Looking at the NEO it will only miss when the rpm's are above 3800/4k if throttle is at least 50% or more but if you keep it under 50% throttle you can bring it to redline without a miss and it's smooth as silk. I tried a fifth gear WOT pull from 1500 rpm's and the car did not miss untill 4k or so.
Im not sure where to go from here. I can't find used coils anywhere for a descent price and kind of want to make sure it is a coil before i have to suck it up and buy new ones. My mechanic says he has some kind of way to determine which cylinder is missing with his Snap On Solus even though its a random miss so he wants to try that first and see if we can't figure it out.
02-27-2012, 07:22 PM
#47
It's a possibility it is just leaning out and detonating, when you get a wideband you can see what's going on. Or if you have a dyno near you ask them if you can do some pulls so you can get a reading from them.
02-29-2012, 05:27 PM
#49
Anybody have a part # for the NGK 1 step colder coppers ? Every time i call somewhere they say they only have the factory plugs and i need a part # for them to check. And also what should i gap them at ? Ill let you guy's no what happens this weekend when i do the plugs and swap coils around (fingers crossed)
02-29-2012, 08:32 PM
#50
it's the same number exact one is off... let me check
BKR5ES-11 is the stock one the higher the middle number is the colder the plug
BKR6ES-11 is one step coler etc
that's the regular plug
BKR6E-11 is the v tip one step colder
BKR5ES-11 is the stock one the higher the middle number is the colder the plug
BKR6ES-11 is one step coler etc
that's the regular plug
BKR6E-11 is the v tip one step colder
Last edited by McSteve; 02-29-2012 at 08:40 PM.
03-01-2012, 03:15 AM
#53
My advice is to go to a scrap yard and pull the coils from a 4th gen to diagnose the problem.
03-04-2012, 02:34 PM
#54
I Found It !! I replaced all the plugs with new NGK coppers and took her for a ride and nothing, Then i bought a Duracrap rear bank coil and slapped it on cylinder 5, took for a ride and the sputter was still there, Repeated with cylinder's 3 and 1 with no improvement. Drove back to Autoblow and told them i bought the coil for the wrong bank and swapped for front bank coil lol. When i got home i put the new coil on # 6 cylinder and took for a ride and the first second gear pull it started spinning tires at the top of second gear and that was the one, All together spent a few hours testing and plugs and coil ran me $75.00 but im happy. Thanks for all your guy's help i really appreciate it.
Glad you got it fixed.
03-04-2012, 03:05 PM
#57
Just throwing this in there, I just had a grey dot coil fall on me. They came out of a car that was running fine. Had about 70k miles before it was wrecked. They were in my cat for a year before one failed. All coils are bound to fail eventually.
My advice is to go to a scrap yard and pull the coils from a 4th gen to diagnose the problem.
My advice is to go to a scrap yard and pull the coils from a 4th gen to diagnose the problem.
I had to replace all of mine couple of years ago, hope they don't fail after a year
lol
Last edited by Nexus67; 03-04-2012 at 03:09 PM. Reason: grammar
03-05-2012, 12:15 AM
#61
03-05-2012, 01:52 PM
#62
03-05-2012, 03:43 PM
#63
Here we go again. All yesterday and today the car ran beautifull and didn't skip a beat. On the way home a did a little third gear pull and noticed it breaking up slightly, When i merged on to the next highway i tried again and it seems like the misfire is back. Could be another coil on the way out but im curious if i didn't gap the plugs right. I gapped them all at .038 I haven't scanned it yet but i didn't even have a chance to clear the 300 from the last coil. I also noticed when swapping coils they were all extremely hot like almost so you couldn't even hang on to them. Also the car was tuned with a NEO with 2 step colder plugs but i doubt that would make a difference, Im loosing my cool with this thing fast
Last edited by 036mtmax; 03-05-2012 at 03:53 PM.
03-05-2012, 05:07 PM
#66
If you want a cheap alternative, get a 4th gen front coil. IIRC it'll work just fine. If I'm wrong, disregard the whole 4th gen coil idea lol
03-05-2012, 06:54 PM
#67
I just brought that coil back to Autozone and got a new one. I took the car for a ride and it was missing just not as much as before the first try. I stopped to pick up dinner and let the car idle outside for a while and when i left there i punched it in second and it pulled hard as a **** with no miss. I think it's gotta be those Duracrap coils, Im gonna throw a used 4th or 5th gen coil in and see what it does. Since i don't have a wideband i need it to stop missing so i can hop on the rollers and get it re-tuned.
03-06-2012, 09:14 AM
#69
I just brought that coil back to Autozone and got a new one. I took the car for a ride and it was missing just not as much as before the first try. I stopped to pick up dinner and let the car idle outside for a while and when i left there i punched it in second and it pulled hard as a **** with no miss. I think it's gotta be those Duracrap coils, Im gonna throw a used 4th or 5th gen coil in and see what it does. Since i don't have a wideband i need it to stop missing so i can hop on the rollers and get it re-tuned.
What pulley are you running?
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 03-06-2012 at 09:19 AM.
03-06-2012, 04:50 PM
#70
That's what im thinking too, And like Flava said i might drop the gap a little on the plugs first to make sure. But would blowout sound and feel exactly the same as a bad coil ?? And Flava it's a 3.125 pulley
Last edited by 036mtmax; 03-06-2012 at 05:41 PM.
03-07-2012, 06:31 AM
#71
03-07-2012, 10:04 AM
#72
03-08-2012, 05:36 PM
#73
I re gapped all the plugs and swapped that Durash!t coil for the third time now. As soon as i was done i took it for a ride and it missed the first time i went WOT it sputtered pretty bad, I drove around a while working the rpm's up little by little and after that i drove around for a good 20 minutes doing numerous WOT pulls into the 5/6k range and the car didn't miss a beat. We will see how long it lasts this time. Here's what all the plugs looked like after a day of being in there.
03-19-2012, 08:40 AM
#74
Well I found the missfire, It was a faulty coil, I replaced the coil and the car ran great for a day and now its missing again @ WOT at any rpm. I also found the 300 code was gone but now I have a 1320. Another sh!tty coil maybe. Car idles fine so cant diag by un clipping coils one by one. Plugs are brand new gapped at 0.34. Im just going to buy all 6 oem coils to rule out plugs and coils I guess, unless someone thinks it could be something different. Thanks for any input this has been a losing battle for me as I only have 1 day a week to diag and fix the car due to work and no garage.
03-23-2012, 08:49 AM
#77
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It's like an epidemic going on in Massachusetts. My car has started misfiring at idle now as well. Under load it seems to be doing fine, but then again I am having some issues with my wastegate opening at 1 psi, so I'm not making any boost at all. Time to order some coils for me too. lol. I know Matt was having issues with his supercharged setup as well. Must have something to do with that solar flare. lol.
03-23-2012, 05:56 PM
#78
It's like an epidemic going on in Massachusetts. My car has started misfiring at idle now as well. Under load it seems to be doing fine, but then again I am having some issues with my wastegate opening at 1 psi, so I'm not making any boost at all. Time to order some coils for me too. lol. I know Matt was having issues with his supercharged setup as well. Must have something to do with that solar flare. lol.
Lol, sucks man i hate it and just when the weather breaks too. If you need a hand with anything shoot me a text.
04-03-2012, 05:49 PM
#79
Got all 6 coils from Importrp the other day and slapped them in. Car seems to be all set now and pulls great. Im getting a miss on cold starts now even after the car is warmed up to OT it seems to break up till about 3/4 k rpms and then clears up. After two or three minutes of driving it goes away and wont do it again until the next cold start. Im thinking leaky injector ?? Thanks for all the input guys.