ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

OK, so I'm nearing the end of my N/A journey here and about to start the REAL power! Going with a custom turbo kit. I am going to keep my Cattman headers and the shop will fabricate something out of my y-pipe to use the turbo. Going to use stock 5.8 spring PSI for daily driving and then move to 7.5PSI on a manual boost controller for some SAFE stock block fun!!! I'll be using the Haltech 350z Platinum Pro to Tune with. Hoping to put down close to 400hp. Here is what I'm going with so far. I will update as time goes on:

Precision 6266 Dual Ball Bearing .84AR Vband Turbo:



Tial MVR Wastegate (Blue):



Tial Q Blowoff Valve (Blue):



And a DEI Titanium Turbo Blanket (help keep temps down):



We are still trying to figure out what we are going to do as far as an intercooler. They are thinking about an intercooler with both the inlets on the same side to avoid all the tubing going across the bottom of the car. Still discussing that. Something like this but not exactly:



Should have this thing up and running and dynoed before Mid May. IT would be a GREAT birthday present to myself!! LOL!

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

I am going to share my opinion.

Great choice on the Tial products. I am also using the Tial wastegate and the Blow-off valve and they are top notch products. Plus both of them are v-band so it is alot nice to work with and look at.

One thing though about the blow-off valve. Make sure you choose the correct vacuum spring for it. Measure the engine vacuum at idle with the motor fully warmed up and order the correct spring. I believe mine and most stock compression vq35 motors are pushing about 22in/hg.
Here is a good chart that explains it for the Tial
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/BOVspc.png

Secondly the Tial wastegate I would just go with the higher boost pressure spring right away. No point in my opinion to get a lower pressure spring and then spend the money for a boost controller to get more boost. With a 7psi spring, you will be at your limits of a stock vq35 block. Plus you will get a small amount of boost creep towards redline so you might even be at 8psi.
But if you do go with a boost controller, call up Hal at Dynosty and order the Injected performance boost controller that Dynosty has for the Haltech. Much better way to up the boost and have the Haltech monitor it.

Also when choosing a wastegate spring, keep this in mind. The wastegate you choose also is the MV-R which is the bigger version. The MV-S is the smaller unit.

Use this very simple formula to add in waste gate selection
Large Turbo + Low Boost = Large Wastegate
Large Turbo + High Boost = Smaller Wastegate
Small Turbo + High Boost = Smaller Wastegate
Small Turbo + Low Boost = Bigger Wastegate

Also keep in mind the proper location for the wastegate



Now the turbo blanket is a smart choice. I am also using the exact same one on my car and it drastically reduces the temps. Thumbs up

But lastly in regards to the turbo, man that is a huge sucker. It is even bigger then what I am using. Your turbo is rated for a 750hp power class. So keep in mind that with a stock block turbo build, that turbo will not be in its efficiency range. Plus you will get more turbo lag. Honestly I would look for something a bit smaller.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

Thanks bro. I'll mention these things to my builder. When I started talking to them about the build I said that I did not want to be boosting at all during my normal drive and I only wanted to see boost when I got on it. That is the turbo he recommended, he claims that it will have full boost at 3500rpms because of the displacement of my engine and with them keeping the Cattman headers on the car. He said the car flows well and if I dont get on it hard I will not see any boost but if I get on it then its going to spool fast because of the dual ball bearings. I'll talk to him about the things you said. Thanks for the input.

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

I agree with shift max in that the turbo is a little too big IMO.

You think about something along the lines of a 6262 or a 60-1?

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Well I am using a T04 T-61 with .68 exhaust and .70 compressor housing so something along those lines would work. Maybe a little bit smaller but I guess it all depends on what the user wants. With my set-up, boost is achieved at 3k rpm.

morris369

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking forward to following this build too, what you did with your an build and now your new goal is pretty much what I would do if I could afford it.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

I dont want boost at 3k....lol. That is daily driving territory? Sometimes I get it up to about 3500rpm when Im feeling spirited. yours spools faster because its smaller, right? I did a bit of research on the 350z forums and Sasha(I think thats his name) from Boosted performance said a 6262 on the VQ35DE engine is a bit too small because of the displacement of the engine. He recommended the 6266 turbo instead. They even sell a turbo kit for the 350z with the 6266 turbo. I think I'll be ok. From what I read the 6266 is a fairly newer design from PTE and it actually outflows and spools faster than turbos of the same size (especially since I'm getting the dual ball bearing one instead of the journal bearing). So even though its big it spools like a smaller turbo but still holds up top like a bigger turbo, from what I read and see on other people's dynos that are using this turbo. Again, Im not turbo master or anything. All of this is TOTALLY new to me, like N/A was in the beginning.

The shop that I'm going to had built an EVO with a 2.4L engine. They used a 6266 turbo on that and it got 600whp and a nice flat torque curve all the way till redline. Looks like it started spooling up around 4000rpms. they told me that was on a little 2.4L displacement engine and that my engine would spool the turbo sooner because of the displacement and higer compression of the 3.5L engine.

Full boost at 3000rpms? What kind of gas mileage you guys usually get? How many miles per full tank?

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Do keep in mind that you are still on a stock block with a stock redline. The most power you will get will be around the area of 400whp and same for torque. Anything above that and you will put extra stress on those rods which will in fact bend them.

Does the shop you are using have any experience with F/I on the vq35? But Yeah Sasha from Boosted performance does know what he is talking about. Here is an example of one of his kits on a 350z. Here it makes sense to use a turbo of that size due to the built block and the higher redline.

Specs are

Boosted Performance BP 62mm Turbo Kit with Precision Turbo Billet 6265 Turbo. You can easily see where the turbo starts to spool on the graph. And up top it starts to flatten out.



However Hal at Dynosty was impressed with my set-up because of quicker spool-up then most Single turbo kits that are out there for the Z/G. He noted that those don't start spooling till after 3k.

Compare it to my set-up which has a nice flat curve.



And I don't know man but having boost only from 4k to 6.5k is not a big enough powerband IMO. Imagine cruising in 6th gear around 3k rpm and stepping on it and having no boost and lag. What fun is in that? But this is me personally.

I get about mid 20s on the highway and about 18-19mpg in the city with my set-up.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

^ I like that torque curve of yours.......really nice. What you think a 6262 then?

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Dang Vas i didnt know you was only reving to 6300. I'm assuming thats cuz stock motor?


I can see how reving that low you want to hit boost earlier, otherwise your power band is too small.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Well the haltech has the stock vq35 rev limiter set in it. But yeah otherwise it is just a stock block motor with the Z Intake Manifold and spacer.

I would say the 6262 is a better option personally.

SurraTT

iTrader: (59)

Oh thats weird, the graph sure dont get close to 6700. what does your logs say?

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Logs are at 6600rpm. I just don't know why Hal backed off on this pull earlier on the rpm range.

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

I hit full boost at 3800 RPM with my T3/TO4E 60 trim (.63) Garrett. I start to build boost somewhat earlier than that though, maybe like 2500RPM.

I can completely stay out of boost even at 5000RPM if I want to, but as soon as you punch it, that sucker is going to spool real quick.

As far as the power capacity of the turbo, "they" say that my turbo is good for 450+ hp which may be a stretch but I do believe that I can hit 400whp if I had a 3" down pipe. I made 374whp on 7psi.

The 6262 is definitely an upgrade compared to my turbo, but it's just a tad too big for my purposes.

I would say that the desired horsepower range is more important in determining the size of the turbo rather than the displacement of the engine. Basically, horsepower is heavily related to air flow. I would assume that a 1.8L engine and a 5.0L engine would flow roughly the same amount of air for a given horsepower level, assuming the AFR is the same.

As far as gas mileage and every day driving, my car is virtually the same as stock. I might even go out on a limb and say that my highway mileage has improved somewhat. Maybe due to the better injectors atomizing the fuel better (6 hole)? Who knows...I usually get around 350 miles per tank. I average about 22mpg around town.


Good luck on the build and keep me posted. I've been telling all my friends about "the guy from the forum with the 280whp all motor max who's going to turbo it soon".

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

Also, here is a crappy picture of my dyno sheet. I'm probably making about 10whp less than what it says.

It actually looks similar to shift max's but mine looks "compressed" due to the scaling.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the information Unkljoe.

I want to get this done ASAP. I'm going to get these synchros fixed and my builder recommended that I get an upgraded clutch. I already have a SPEC Stage II clutch, but I dont think I'll need an upgrade. The SPEC Stage II clutch says it can hold up to 400ft-lbs. and it feels strong. I have gotten used to it anyway. I think I'm going to save the money and just keep the Stage II clutch. Then again, if I do the clutch with the tranny build then its free.

Waiting for my brake caliper brackets from fastbrakes and then I can do my brake upgrade. Other than that I'm ready.

I'm not getting no where near 350miles per tank. Maybe the way I drive?? LOL. I still think the AFRs might be a little off. Its all good because I'm going to get all that fixed and tuned when I get the turbo tuned up.

nismomaxct

iTrader: (24)

I average 25-27mpg. This is mostly highway driving when I take the car to work. Something no one has brought up in this thread is piping setups and their affect on spool up. I know shift_max's setup is pretty efficient and unkle joe's setup definitely has shorter piping than what you see on a lot of maximas.
Ranmas...do you have an idea of how the shop is going to route your piping?

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

^Very good point to mention. Piping also plays a factor. I know the OP mentioned that he was going to re-use his cattman headers and have the shop fabricate piping from there.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

I'll talk to them on Monday when I go get the dyno. I know they were talking about using an intercooler that had openings on the same side to avoid having to run piping down and around the front. I'll talk with them.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I used to drive from Philly to Delaware and never go into boost with a t4 flange t61

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

So does longer piping make turbo spool faster and vice versa?? I know they said they were going to do a 3" downpipe. They said something about bringing a pipe from the ypipe into the turbo up from the back of the engine and then a downpipe back down through the back of the engine to the exhaust and then intake piping going down through the front to one of the inlets of the intercooler on the drivers side and then another one coming out of the drivers side and then back up to the throttle body....I dont know if you understand what I'm saying. They were just thinking about different options. He said if they have one of those intercoolers with the inlet and outlet on the same side to save piping. They were just theorizing.

????? I dont get it....

pimpin02max

iTrader: (6)

I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this build. I can't even tell you how many times in the past 6 years I've thought about boosting my Max, but I always chicken out lol. Plus the SFR kit is so damn expensive lol

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

custom build is cheaper.....SFR is not the only option.

pimpin02max

iTrader: (6)

I know that's what I'm getting at, I've looked into doing a custom build and I always back out and never order the parts, then when the SFR kit came out I was excited then when I saw the price tag I was like

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

As far as a clutch goes, I have an Exedy OEM Replacement clutch...the one that costs $200 new.

I threw it on when I replaced my trans. I am also re-using the original dual mass flywheel with 150k miles on it. I just scuffed it up with one of those "cookie" wheels.

I have no chatter and I can chirp 4th with my setup, so I would say that you will be MORE than fine with the stage 2 clutch that you have.

Even my original clutch didn't slip at all with 130k miles on it.

I think tilley had a stock 6MT clutch and trans running mid 11's in the quarter at like 122mph.

BUT....I was on street tires so they would spin far before the break-torque of the clutch was reached. If you plan on launching this bad boy on slicks then that's another story LOL

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Got a intercooler like the one in the pic for sale bnib

nismomaxct

iTrader: (24)

Longer piping means it takes longer to spool the turbo. The way the shop is talking about running the piping is how a lot of the original kits made for Maximas were setup. I had a modified PFI setup on my 5.5 gen, which is almost identical to the setup your shop is describing. I got full boost (7 psi) around 3500 RPM, but I was running a T3/60-1 Ball Bearing unit. My new setup is shorter and I am running a T4/T70 and it spools up around the same time.
I have the same style intercooler you are looking at running. Definitely helps keep the piping nice and short.
This is unrelated to spool up, but are they going to be running your piping under your transmission or a different way? I ask because I really want to change up my downpipe and not have it going under the transmission.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

Yeah..that is what they were talking about. I have to ask them about how they plan on running the piping. He said that he would have to get "creative" on bringing that 3" downpipe back through the back behind where the transmission is....I know they can do it. The are a fully customization and fabrication shop.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

when I get some time I'll make a setup with the dp running under the oil pan, that should solve all your problems

nismomaxct

iTrader: (24)

I am very interested in this. lol. What really intrigues me is that the SFR kit seems to run the downpipe OVER the transmission and down on the back side. That is something I could utilize with my existing piping setup.

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

yeah i saw the sfr kit in person and it does run over the transmission. its a very tight fit and exhaust wrap is a must. might be a little hard to fit a 3" pipe there too. the sfr kit uses a 2.5" down pipe

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

yes it is but like stated you'll have to run a 2.5inch dp, which isn't a big deal depending on your power goals

grksoccerkid91

iTrader: (4)

This thread helped me out with a few misc things on my build. My setup is now really similar to unklejoe's after rerouting a few things. my kit was originally for a dek so i had to redo a few things.. i'd be careful running the dp over the trans it seems like there's a lot of stuff that can get hot back there.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

Well, sadly I have to postpone this turbo build. Wife pregnant and we are moving into a house. Had to pay penalty for breaking current lease, buy new washer and dryer and misc stuff for the home. Draining all the "turbo" fund money, but its all good. FAMILY ALWAYS FIRST! So I'm hoping to have this turbo build done by July. If not then it will be late in November or just wait until next year, it all depends on how much more the cost is. I have the turbo, BOV and wastegate. Pretty much only have to pay for fabrication of pipes, intercooler, labor and tune.......don't know how much all that will run.....

Dzaccord

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the upcoming addition. Things can be postponed but not forgotten.

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

GOOD NEWS!!!!

Let's get this party RE-STARTED!!!!

Precision CEA Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo .82 exhaust and .70 compressor housing:







Size comparrison:






Got refund/credit for the wastegate because it did not come in. So I was suggested a turbosmart Hyper-Gate 45mm wastegate with a 7 Psi spring (BLUE):



I know I originally got the Tial Q BOV but I was looking at their spring chart for the Q BOV and if SHIFT_MAX is saying idle vacuum is at -22 in/hg I would need a -12 PSI spring and they dont have one now....




In the captions you can see they DONT MAKE A -12 PSI spring for the Q BOV but they are "working on it."

So I was considering turbosmart supersonic BOV (yes I want that SHYT LOUD) because its ONE spring and you twist the top to make it stiffer, completely adjustable which is better to me.....




Sound clip of turbosmart supersonic BOV:



THATS WHAT IM TALKIN BOUT!!!

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

That turbo is gonna sound nasty spooling

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

Finally dropping car off Monday to get the following installed:

-Turbo install, piping and all associated stuff, BOV, wastegate, turbo blanket, intercooler, gauges, etc...(all exhaust piping on turbo will be ceramic coated)

-remove, calibrate and properly install widebands in headers (long story)

-NGK one step colder spark splugs

-Mishimoto Radiator, 2-12" radiator slim fans, and flexible stainless steel radiator hoses

-Install NWP manifold spacer where upper connects with lower manifold.

-35% window tint on all windows (didn't want to do 20% or less because dont want police bothering me)

-Stillen front lip

-Front 12.8" OEM big brake kit and rear 12" OEM big brake upgrade kit with ceramic pads and stainless steel brake lines, fresh braking fluid and paint all brackets and calipers black.

Might even have them install the DVD/Navigation system, Amps and subs for me as well......still considering that.

Should be finished with everything in about 2 weeks and going to schedule dyno tune 1st week of June at RT Tuning!!

Probably wont even recognize the car when they done!!!! The shop is like 10 mins from my house so I will periodically be dropping by and taking pics of the progress.

ITS GONNA BE A HOT SUMMER!!!!!!!

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

damn, balla

you hiring

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

You forgot to get the $200 ebay meth injection kit...