Well first off, I have ordered everything and here is what I have. I'm hoping to make anywhere from 300-350 whp. Seems reasonable..

Parts ordered:

Precision 6031e Turbo
http://www.precisionturbo.net/turboc...ger---6031E/61
Precision 46 mm Wastegate
Precision 525cc injectors
Walbro 255lph
Aeromotive FPR
AEM wideband
Ebay 2.5'' intercooler
Greddy emanage ultimate w/universal harness

All together, parts cost $2,200.00

And the shop where I'm having the work done is fabricating my exhaust/dump tube (since I have to tune there anyways, might as well have the shop make sure it's done right)

Here is link to shop (not your Honda shop btw ) www.noribilt.com

 

Pretty hefty price for a very generic basic setup. Turbo options are "too small" "tiny" and "microscopic" (I didn't even know a T20 exists, and I know a lot about turbos).

You could piece together all those generic ebay parts for way less than 3 grand. You are paying a lot of extra money for the "convenience" of getting them all shipped to you in one box. Keep in mind the cost of install too. Call it maybe a grand for the basic install, more if it requires modification which I highly suspect a generic turbo setup like that will. So you could easily be looking at $4500 for a turbo setup which would have a hard time making 300whp. There was a guy who had a similar turbo setup to that on here back in the day, i think he was sitting pretty at around 270whp with thousands of dollars spent on it, modifying it, troubleshooting it, etc. No thanks. I would never consider such a kit, but if you don't have the know how to piece together a kit on your own it might be a viable option I suppose... Personally I'd run a rear mounted turbo setup before I ran that kit, and I don't really like rear mounted turbo setups.

Running no tune on any turbo setup is asking for trouble.

 

Thanks bro, and also I have read the thread regardig the similar set up from 2007. You have many posts.

My only thing is..."What should I buy generic?"

I don't want to cheap out on the wrong parts...

I feel like a newb all over again...haha

 

correct

 

 

My old setup. Brings back memories. lol. I actually convinced Turbo Specialties to custom fab me one of their manifolds for the kit with a T3 inlet and external wastegate port. Car was sold before I put it on and then UPS lost it on its way to the new owner.

 

that sucks UPS lost it, btw sold that feed and dp to a local friend and helping him install the kit.

Never bought a maxima so I figured no point in just looking at it everyday

 

People should go to JAIL for trying to sell that POS BS GARBAGE AZZ turbo kit for a 3.0L V6 Maxima. You wouldn't even put 2" piping on a Civic for a turbo WTF??? TRASH!!! Crap dont fit, pieces rubbing against the turbo, etc. It'll be cheaper to piece together your own kit like me and other Maxima owners have done.

 

your shop is ridiculous...of course you dont need a tune for it to start up and maybe go down the block, but put it in full boost and see

" We recommend having a local shop tune your car with the turbo kit on a dyno to ensure that you get the most reliable performance for years to come."

 

Well 3 grand is about the max i want to spend on parts...so where to start looking then?? Piece it together??

And Like I asked earlier, which parts are ok to buy generic??

 

I would suggest reading other members build threads

 

^Agreed.

Also check out other for sale turbo threads and determine how much you're looking to put down in hp.

 

Well to update guys, I've completelly decided to piece my kit together.
Here is what's in my shopping cart.

Cart:

GT28RS w/ dual ball bearing
Walbro 255
370cc injectors

I'm currently looking for:

Greddy emanage blue or ultimate
Fuel Management unit
Intercooler w/piping
oil/coolant lines
BOV (not sure what brand yet)

 

Does it look like I'm missing anything? I know the exhaust will need to be redone, so where's a good place to to get a manifold?

What do you think about this intercooler?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27x7x2-5-FMI...9564e3&vxp=mtr

Does anybody know if these injectors will work?

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...fuel-injectors

 

if a shop told me my NA maxima didnt need a tune after turbocharging it, I wouldnt even trust them to put air in my tires...

 

Does anybody know if the map sensor needs to be upgraded when going boosted?

 

You need to read more build threads and google the questions you are asking here, you will be able to find more generic answers and gain some knowledge in the process because you will need knowledge to put it together and keep it running. You need to find a hp goal and see if the parts you are choosing will support your target hp. If we tell you what exactly to get you still won't understand what you are getting and why.

 

I sent you a pm Clint. Lmk if you're interested.

 

+1

 

Thanks for the input bro, I haven't had MUCH time to research but have done some. I'm finally on vacation next week so I'll have time...lol.

 

yeah man I didnt understand alot about turbos when I wanted to go turbo but I read through peoples threads and asked questions to those people.

 

I didn't see much (or overlooked) but what type of turbo manifold should I get?

 

Since you seem to not know that much, (I'm not dissing you) I would get a custom feed pipe from a person on maxima.org because we deal with these maximas on a daily. There's a few people here that can make you a custom kit and usually people that make their own custom kits know what they are doing. That's just my advice

 

You have to really think about what you really want as far as how you want your car to be like because something might have to be altered on your car and you might not like that like for example, your battery might have to be moved to the trunk of your car or you might have to change your stock radiator or the downpipe might hang low to the ground and might scrape the ground when you hit bumps. Just stuff like that you have to think about when you are trying to put a turbo on your car

 

You also have to consider how you want the car to drive. Do you want fast response low end power but not much up top or normal low end and more top end power. I would go custom kit from someone that know VQ engines. Stay far away from people who have no clue on these engines. Dont take it to no Honda shop and then have them tell you that 2.5" DP is good with 2" intake piping because that is what they use on their 4 cylinder engines so they think it will be OK on yours.

 

You can deff make your own custom setup for around 3k or less.

Pay someone on these forums to fab you a feed and downpipe setup (probably ~$700).

(ask t6378tp)

Buy a Garrett t3/to4e for like $800 new.

Tial WG for like $300.

Intercooler piping and intercooler from ebay (cx racing) for $300.

Emanage blue $250.

Injectors ~$100 (mustang cobra injectors)

Misc things you will need $500.

Tune by someone who knows what theyre doing $150 (ask on the forum).



This is just a rough estimate but this will give you a general idea. This will make more power than that bolt on kit you were looking at. It won't look as nice as ranmas' setup but it will work.

 

I just re-read the thread and want point a couple things out.
I personally wouldn't waste the money on a GT28 DBB. It's kind of small and you can find a precision turbo for much cheaper that will make the same power. A Garrett 60 trim t3/to4e is perfect for around 350-375whp and is dirt cheap brand new. Don't worry about the ball bearing thing. It will spool up slightly faster and have better transient response but it costs a lot more and if this is a budget build, id skip that. Plus you can skip the whole coolant line thing if you get a regular turbo.

I got all my oil lines from ebay. Never had a problem. I used the oil filter sandwich adaptor from ebay as well. Get an ebay blow off valve. You can even get the EMUSA ebay wastegate, but I'd personally get a Tial if I did it again. I did run the EMUSA wg for over a year without many problems (it would sometimes get stuck OPEN, which is ok but annoying).

There is no map sensor on your car. I'm assuming you have a 4th gen so your maf will prob be maxed out and/or explode lol but **** it, you can just tune on top of the maxed out MAF like I did. It will work fine, just check your air fuel ratios if the temperature changes or you raise or lower the boost.

I don't know what mods you have or how much you know but youll want a wideband and a boost gauge as well. And someone will have to tap your pan for the oil return. Also make sure you use oil rated hose for the return line or it will deteriorate.

As far as a manifold...they don't really make bolt on turbo manifolds for our car. Someone has to make it.

 

I sent you a pm before if you're interested in my kit. As unklejoe said, you'll need all that stuff and I offered you a price at just about what he said. Idk what gen you have though.

 

#1 post updated...thanks for help guys, this is new to me, so yes, I don't know much. Shop I go through is helping alot as well. Very reputable shop, I've referred about 6 cars to them. Parts should be going in either late this week, or early next week.

I'm headed to the junkyard sometime this week to buy an extra oil pan. That will save me time so it can be ready for oil line.

 

If your getting a shop to do the mockup and fab work and tune another 2k to that total

 

^^^ Yup

 

Is a 46mm too big? Someone posted a chart here before. I think ramnas in his build. I'm running a 38mm and I believe most of us are?

My offer for all the piping + ic + oil pan still stands

 

You can't really have too big of a waste gate. But a 38mm will be fine. I had no problems with boost creep with my 38mm.

 

I ordered my IC already!!! lol but thanks, how much for oil pan? do you have turbo manifold?

 

What do y'all think about this? and price?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Greddy-E-Man...4dfad7&vxp=mtr

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forced-indu...e-forsale.html

 

Looks like we got some progress. And make sure you post pics of everything dont be shy

 

Don't you worry, parts should be coming in today

 

BTW Clint the first thing you might want to look into is switching out the clutch for one that withstands higher clamping force. I did mine before doing the turbo, in fact even broke it in before the turbo was even put in. Also, might want to look into the water/coolant issue you're having. Trust me, you do not want to be running your car without coolant no matter how bizarre/lucky you think you've been. Motor and turbo will go kaboom!

 

Pics...........