peegee1

Sorry... Can't search... so here goes...

For 4th gen, please post your tire size and PSI.

I know the door panel ahs a sticker indicating the PSI, but I assume that's for stockies. Not sure what the optimal PSI is if upgraded to larger rims/tires...

FormorAccordMan

iTrader: (3)

I think every other tire/rim combo would be different. I guess start at the recomended pressure on the tire and experiment with a few pounds give or take to what YOU feel gives you the best ride/control.

maxsthebest

ALWAYS go with the auto manufacturers recommended psi! For the 4th generation Maximas is 29 psi all around. I have always followed this and have never had any problems with my tires. They last longer, the car rides better and you always get the recommended gas mileage. I keep mine 29-30 psi and check it every few weeks. I also use the metal caps instead of plastic caps on the valve stems. This keeps in the air longer.

You can't go wrong with this setup. I have tried it many other ways and this works out the best!

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

the stock size for tires and recommended air pressure for those is as follows:

215/55-R16
35 max psi.
I keep like 32 in mine cold, so that it does not go above the max.

Norm Peterson

As a start, it will depend on the Load Index for the new tires vs the old. To a rather limited extent, you can make up for a lower-than-OE LI with a bit more inflation pressure. Conversely, a tire with a higher LI than OE will be OK with slightly less inflation. Basically what you're doing here is matching the tire's load capacity (which varies with inflation psi) to Nissan's design intent.

After that it gets into what makes the car feel best to you, the intensity of your driving, and your range of vehicle loading. In general, a little extra air up front (2 - 4 psi) will sharpen turn-in response and perhaps add a little ultimate grip without causing noticeably more center-tread wear.

Norm

peegee1

My head is spinning right now because of the contradicting answers here...

Run with the sticker post psi regardless of tire size as suggested? or Run with suggested psi as specified by tire manufacturer? Or run with the complicated formular of new Load Index vs old Index (etc. etc.)

Oh, and I'd guess different generation of Max has different recommended psi sticker. Mine is 4th gen, fwiw.

Back to original question: Year of your Max? What's your tire size and Psi are you running?

Just trying to avaoid finding out before ruining my tires due to improper psi...

Norm Peterson

1) The door panel sticker pressure is based in part on the vehicle weight and tire size (IOW, load index). It's there mostly for the average owner who keeps the OE size over the whole period of ownership. For those of us who move to non-OE sizes it mostly becomes a point of reference.

2) The tire mfr sidewall pressure is a maximum rated value only. So is the maximum rated load. They are not provided with any particular car in mind; they're only there to identify the limits of the tire.

Norm

maxsthebest

Buddy, if you want to confuse yourself with all of this load index crap then so be it. But the manufacturer of the vehicle should know what is best for vehicle ride, handling and gas economy. I too was confused like you two years ago and finally decided to do it Nissan's way. My tires last longer, the ride quality is great, as well as, handling and I always get the best gas mileage. I have a 97 Maxima GLE. I am running Yokohama Avid tires (215/60) with 29-30 psi in each. I have never had any problems with this setup and have never damaged or overworn any tires with this setup. Take it from me...it will work for you too!

Norm Peterson

Max, at least you went up a load index with your 215/60's (from 205/65's), so you have a little extra reserve capacity available. This also means that by maintaining the same sticker pressure you're actually inflated a minimal amount above Nissan's basis. But that will generally provide better gas mileage and more responsive handling (as you note). It's not enough more that ride quality has been affected much (ditto), nor is it enough more to result in noticeably faster center-tread wear (if anything, you've likely benefitted from improved shoulder wear). Actually, I'd say that you've implied a pretty good argument by individual example for running a couple of psi above the mfr's recommendation.

I'll stipulate that the mfr selects what's best for his agenda. But understand that the mfr almost certainly does not put the same relative emphasis on performance vs ride vs subjective handling vs cost vs appearance vs tread life vs whatever, as do many of us who are looking for something a little sportier or that has a significantly different appearance. If anything, the mfr wants a bit more understeer than may be necessary for the many of us just so that the few don't ever get in over their head even if they rarely check their tires.

I'm trying to introduce a logical way of dealing with a tire size change that may well be greater than the one that you made, and we don't even know yet whether peegee's choice of tire carries a LI that's less than, equal to, or greater than the OE LI. At this point, you're getting into the edges of vehicle design, and you need to think a little more like the engineers who signed off on the original package. Not to just the end-result numbers (which are based on an assumption about tire size that we may well be invalidating), but to the thought processes and concepts that went into generating them. That "load index crap", as you put it, is a fairly important parameter in the engineering evaluation of this situation. Ignore it at you own risk, or get a little help with it. And I think I can help peegee.

hey, things like adding another profile to my ISP account drives me about nuts, so I understand a little about frustration involving things outside one's main expertise

Norm
Engineer