Dynoed car yesterday, kind of disturbed with the outcome
Dynoed car yesterday, kind of disturbed with the outcome
Hey guys I'm sure someone can explain if this is in ballpark where it should be. Now keep in mind the temp yesterday was like 95 here. I have a 2k1 slightly modded with a catback exhaust and a short intake, the car only pushed 185 hp to the wheels. I was under the assumption that these have 230hp. Is there that much of a difference to the wheels than the crank?? I would think that it would at least put about 200 to the wheels but to my suprise it was much lower than I expected!!!!
I was under the assumption that these have 230hp. Is there that much of a difference to the wheels than the crank??
And yes there is a difference. Depending on wheather you have an auto or a stick you have over a 13% lose
For bedtime reading:
https://maxima.org/modules.php?name=30_comparisons
I have the anniversary edition and as you can see, I have the slowest car ever ( 17" OEM anniversary wheels)
https://maxima.org/modules.php?name=30_comparisons
I have the anniversary edition and as you can see, I have the slowest car ever ( 17" OEM anniversary wheels)
I know it is a bit off topic... how much does high heat and humidity affect performance??
My brother and I were having fun with one of the G-Tech meters and the best run I had was a 15.9, I have an auto 2000 SE with a GAB and Cattman Catback. It was also 98 and VERY humid, would that slow me down bad?
My brother and I were having fun with one of the G-Tech meters and the best run I had was a 15.9, I have an auto 2000 SE with a GAB and Cattman Catback. It was also 98 and VERY humid, would that slow me down bad?
Originally Posted by 2k1Maxdrvr
It is a 5 speed I did it in 3rd gear and the wheels and tires are very heavy I'm sure, they are 18".
Originally Posted by 2k1Maxdrvr
Hey guys I'm sure someone can explain if this is in ballpark where it should be. Now keep in mind the temp yesterday was like 95 here. I have a 2k1 slightly modded with a catback exhaust and a short intake, the car only pushed 185 hp to the wheels. I was under the assumption that these have 230hp. Is there that much of a difference to the wheels than the crank?? I would think that it would at least put about 200 to the wheels but to my suprise it was much lower than I expected!!!!
Wow, that was one hell of an informative writeup. Now I have some actual numbers to prove my assumption that I had one of the slowest Maximas to ever come from the factory, especially now that I have the BlehmCo 6th gen rotor kit adding 10 lbs more to each front wheel.
if you want to compare numbers to most on here then dyno in 4th gear for 5spd and 3rd gear for our autos. dont listen to the dyno operators or go somewhere if they say otherwise. everyone at the maxus dyno should know this first hand.
I did a 4th gear and it was 183. It was at a contest here in my area, I couldn't believe it a 04 SRT4 pulled a run and hit 425hp, then some dude pulls in in a rustbucket Ranger with a Thunderbird Super Coupe motor swap and pulled a 142 it was a riot!
Originally Posted by ighettoboyi
de-k's make good power to the wheels. its sad that an auto 5.5gen only makes 10whp more, and that a 6spd just eats up your power
Originally Posted by 2k1Maxdrvr
Hey guys I'm sure someone can explain if this is in ballpark where it should be. Now keep in mind the temp yesterday was like 95 here. I have a 2k1 slightly modded with a catback exhaust and a short intake, the car only pushed 185 hp to the wheels. I was under the assumption that these have 230hp. Is there that much of a difference to the wheels than the crank?? I would think that it would at least put about 200 to the wheels but to my suprise it was much lower than I expected!!!!
did you do 3rd or 4th gear pull?
Originally Posted by ighettoboyi
de-k's make good power to the wheels. its sad that an auto 5.5gen only makes 10whp more, and that a 6spd just eats up your power
DE-K's with a 5 speed FULLY modded put down between 4-8 whp more than a stock auto 5.5 gen.......200-204whp vs 196.
Driveline losses
5MT = 15%
6mt = 18%
4at = 23%
dunno where you get your info from...you might wanna slap that person though
I agree with E55AMG2...6mt has the least amount of losses and should have the best numbers on the track ( if you know how to shift).
Lighter wheels help a lot. I can feel so much of a difference between my 17"OEM wheels as compared to my winter tires which are 16"steel rims.
Lighter wheels help a lot. I can feel so much of a difference between my 17"OEM wheels as compared to my winter tires which are 16"steel rims.
E55 is exactly right on the drivetrain loss numbers.....5 years ago I took my '93 Altima to a dyno here in Memphis and put down around 115whp, which was a 23% loss...so little to no difference between the losses of Nissan auto trannies in the last 10-15years....
Jeremy
Jeremy
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
DE-K's with a 5 speed FULLY modded put down between 4-8 whp more than a stock auto 5.5 gen.......200-204whp vs 196.
Driveline losses
5MT = 15%
6mt = 18%
4at = 23%
dunno where you get your info from...you might wanna slap that person though
Driveline losses
5MT = 15%
6mt = 18%
4at = 23%
dunno where you get your info from...you might wanna slap that person though
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I tend to dissagree. Show me a dyno of a real fully loaded with every mod 5spd DE-K and light 15-17lbs wheels and stock brakes. Till then this post of yours is worhtless and full off BS info.
Can you host pics, Ive got runfiles from a 2000 5spd with full bolt ons and stock wheels. Ill be more than happy to send them over if you'd like. If you want a dyno of what you described..post your dynos up
Originally Posted by upstatemax
I know it is a bit off topic... how much does high heat and humidity affect performance??
My brother and I were having fun with one of the G-Tech meters and the best run I had was a 15.9, I have an auto 2000 SE with a GAB and Cattman Catback. It was also 98 and VERY humid, would that slow me down bad?
My brother and I were having fun with one of the G-Tech meters and the best run I had was a 15.9, I have an auto 2000 SE with a GAB and Cattman Catback. It was also 98 and VERY humid, would that slow me down bad?
Yes. The last trip I took to the track, it was like 95 degrees and really humid and everybody was claiming to be .4 slower than with cooler temperatures. That would be about right because I ran a 14.90 when I should be around 14.50-14.60.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
They do have some beefy torque though.
5.5's get their advantage in acceleration mostly from tq, not high-end hp. That's why they're relatively quick off the line, but the advantage fades on the highway (stock).
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=157
Now show me YOURS....
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Here is a 2001 5spd with an absurd correction factor(Honduuh ricer shop inflates numbers by modifying altitude), light weight yet 19" Centerline rims, Cattman headers, JWT POP, high flow cat, Frankencar high flow Bpipe, and no axle back section, here are his numbers with NO tuning:


Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I tend to dissagree. Show me a dyno of a real fully loaded with every mod 5spd DE-K and light 15-17lbs wheels and stock brakes. Till then this post of yours is worhtless and full off BS info.
Originally Posted by liqidvenom
im still at a lose to understand how heavier wheels would have a negative readout on a dyno. i would see how rims would hurt accel but how would it make the dyno read a lower number
Another problem with dynoing cars is aligment issues, if your car has too much toe in or toe out it will hurt your dyno #s also. Since it takes energy to push the car forward- if the tires are scrubbing inward (toe in) then it takes more energy to overcome that force. There are alot of factors as to why one car can make XXX amount of power, where another car makes less or more.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
Another problem with dynoing cars is aligment issues, if your car has too much toe in or toe out it will hurt your dyno #s also. Since it takes energy to push the car forward- if the tires are scrubbing inward (toe in) then it takes more energy to overcome that force. There are alot of factors as to why one car can make XXX amount of power, where another car makes less or more.
It would have to be pretty severely in or out to make a significant difference
From personal experience 1.5 deg of toe IN on a B13 w/ NA SR20 will make around 5-6WHP diff, which will make some people scream bout their car not performing up to specified horsepower levels. Its not like they have the time to perfectly align every car at the factory, it only takes a few min to build the car. Its normal to see cars out of aligment straight from the factory.



