Replace wheel bearing or entire nuckle and hub assembly?
10-05-2013, 09:15 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
Posts: 393
Replace wheel bearing or entire nuckle and hub assembly?
96 max 182000 miles, went to Firestone to get 4 new tires, they told me that driver side front wheel bearing is loose, I was tracing this scratching noise from the front left for a while, thought is was either the brake pads or brake dust shield scratch the rotor when make a turn. So the inspection is coming up in about 2 months, I have to get it fixed before inspection. I don't want to spend too much money or effort for this, two options:
1. Take the wheel hub out and replace the bearing, not a easy job without the right tools.
2. Go to a junk yard, get a wheel knuckle and hub assembly, replace the whole thing, this is a much easier job but the risk is the bearing on the used one might also be bad, how to check to make sure the bearing is good?
1. Take the wheel hub out and replace the bearing, not a easy job without the right tools.
2. Go to a junk yard, get a wheel knuckle and hub assembly, replace the whole thing, this is a much easier job but the risk is the bearing on the used one might also be bad, how to check to make sure the bearing is good?
10-05-2013, 11:21 AM
#2
well first confirm that if your wheel bearings are actually shot. I just went through all of this last week.
Timken Bearings are 27$ at Autozone. And get dorman wheel hubs from amazon for like $35. You should replace the hub if the wheel bearing is bad. However if you are not doing the work yourself the labor will become very expensive. Shop around
If you go the jy route you should be alright too. Itll be pretty cheap and labor would be pretty easy. Id say if the car appears stock chances are the bearings will be okay.
Go with whatever is cheaper/easier.
Timken Bearings are 27$ at Autozone. And get dorman wheel hubs from amazon for like $35. You should replace the hub if the wheel bearing is bad. However if you are not doing the work yourself the labor will become very expensive. Shop around
If you go the jy route you should be alright too. Itll be pretty cheap and labor would be pretty easy. Id say if the car appears stock chances are the bearings will be okay.
Go with whatever is cheaper/easier.
10-05-2013, 06:52 PM
#4
Why would you waste your time putting a 17 year old bearing on your car? Do it right, do it once.
Another option is buy a new bearing AND SEALS. Purchase wrecking yard knuckle and hub. Pay someone $25 to do the pressing and swap in rebuilt knuckle yourself.
Hubs only go bad when the bearing is so bad the tire wobbles by inches.
Another option is buy a new bearing AND SEALS. Purchase wrecking yard knuckle and hub. Pay someone $25 to do the pressing and swap in rebuilt knuckle yourself.
Hubs only go bad when the bearing is so bad the tire wobbles by inches.
10-20-2013, 07:45 PM
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
Posts: 393
I finally get this thing sorted out, went to junk yard, pulled a spindle with good bearing for $75, took out old one, indeed the bearing was shot. Replacement tooks about an hour and half, I also replaced braking pads on both front left and right. Test driver confirmed that the scratching noise is gone. I do have to buy a 36mm axle nut socket. Alignment is needed?
The bad one I took out
Top one has the bad bearing, bottom one is the $75 junk year spindle:
Grease up before install:
Installed:
New pads on
Compress caliper
Done:
The bad one I took out
Top one has the bad bearing, bottom one is the $75 junk year spindle:
Grease up before install:
Installed:
New pads on
Compress caliper
Done:
10-21-2013, 07:43 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 14
Max139617 you said
Is this necessary? I've just never heard of anyone replacing a hub just b/c the bearing failed. I'm just looking for some education/clarification.
Max139617You should replace the hub if the wheel bearing is bad.
10-21-2013, 08:33 AM
#9
you replace the hub if the hub is bad. if the wheel bearing isn't bad enough, it won't damage the hub, once the bearing wears past a certain point, it will ruin the hub. only way to know is to take it apart and find out.
10-21-2013, 01:43 PM
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
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On the way home, however, CEL came on, checked code just 10 minutes ago, it is annoying 302 EGR code again, I did clean up entire EGR system couple of years ago now it comes back again
I clean the code and will drive for few days to see if the code comes back.
10-21-2013, 02:34 PM
#11
Usually when the bearing is bad, most of the time the hub is toast with it too.
In my case the bearing on the drivers side was completely shot which destroyed my hub too. Since your already there the hub is only and extra 40 bucks.
The passenger side wheel bearing wasn't as bad, and as a result I couldve re-used the hub, but i chose not too.
I have heard of people putting new bearings on worn hubs, having to redo the whole job again to swap out a hub that they should've done in the first place.
10-21-2013, 02:35 PM
#12
Took the car to work today, I didn't feel much alignment difference but I guess I'd better get alignment done again to be sure since the spindle is off the strut.
On the way home, however, CEL came on, checked code just 10 minutes ago, it is annoying 302 EGR code again, I did clean up entire EGR system couple of years ago now it comes back again I clean the code and will drive for few days to see if the code comes back.
On the way home, however, CEL came on, checked code just 10 minutes ago, it is annoying 302 EGR code again, I did clean up entire EGR system couple of years ago now it comes back again
I clean the code and will drive for few days to see if the code comes back.drive it for about two days, if you feel your alignment is bad then take it in,
when my shop did my alignment, all the numbers were fine lmao. your money your call.
10-21-2013, 02:47 PM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
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I bought lifetime alignment package from Firestone so I don't need to pay again for alignment, just need to find a time to drop the car there, especially I just got a set of new tires so you are right, it is better to get the car aligned. Thanks.
09-01-2015, 11:30 AM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Central Mass.
Posts: 41
I have heard of people putting new bearings on worn hubs, having to redo the whole job again to swap out a hub that they should've done in the first place.[/QUOTE]
Like me! I went for alignment, nope, bad ball joint. So while I was it, I did the bearing. high-mileage, just got the car, seemed like a good idea. New bearing old hub, same knuckle. Went for alignment about a month after (new ball joint) Nope, bad bearing! Holy cow. so either the hub was toast and ate up my new bearing or the guy that replaced it for me did a crappy job. My money is on B, but who knows. So I got a knuckle from the bone yard, new bearing and new hub. Now I'm going to rebuild the knuckle then when I'm done I can swap it easy. Two questions:
1. If I got a ABS knuckle but I don't have ABS is it just as complicated as cutting the wire off?
2. is the knuckle the same for either side? I'm thinking I will then rebuild the old original knuckle and then do the drivers side (along with a new control arm/ball joint).
Then maybe I can get an alignment, straighten the steering wheel and replace the tires which are wearing unevenly.
Like me! I went for alignment, nope, bad ball joint. So while I was it, I did the bearing. high-mileage, just got the car, seemed like a good idea. New bearing old hub, same knuckle. Went for alignment about a month after (new ball joint) Nope, bad bearing! Holy cow. so either the hub was toast and ate up my new bearing or the guy that replaced it for me did a crappy job. My money is on B, but who knows. So I got a knuckle from the bone yard, new bearing and new hub. Now I'm going to rebuild the knuckle then when I'm done I can swap it easy. Two questions:
1. If I got a ABS knuckle but I don't have ABS is it just as complicated as cutting the wire off?
2. is the knuckle the same for either side? I'm thinking I will then rebuild the old original knuckle and then do the drivers side (along with a new control arm/ball joint).
Then maybe I can get an alignment, straighten the steering wheel and replace the tires which are wearing unevenly.
09-05-2015, 10:17 PM
#16
1. If I got a ABS knuckle but I don't have ABS is it just as complicated as cutting the wire off?
2. is the knuckle the same for either side? I'm thinking I will then rebuild the old original knuckle and then do the drivers side (along with a new control arm/ball joint).
Then maybe I can get an alignment, straighten the steering wheel and replace the tires which are wearing unevenly.[/QUOTE]
Holy thread bump. Good for you on searching though.
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