yippzter

Hey guys, I am new to Maxima, Ive been looking for Maxima for a while and found a car for sale, its 1998 Maxima and 137k mileages but its got codes.
P1320 - Ign Signal
P1105 - Baro/MAP Switch Solenoid Valve
P0325 - Knock Sensor

I started it up and tested it, I don't hear any knocks since P0325 came up. Drive went good.

So what you guys think, should i buy it and fix it? Is it easy to fix? Should I be worry about knock sensor if its not fault but engine knocks?

Thanks

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

The knock sensor is basically a microphone. Its there to listen for spark knock which is also called detonation, pinging, and pre ignition. This is the condition inside the engine where the fuel begins to burn before its supposed to. It sounds like someone rattling a can of marbles. It can easily destroy the internals of an engine. the p1105 is probably your mass air flow needing to be cleaned or replaced. and the p1320 is probably a bad coil, you can test the by switching back and fourth and seeing which one misfires, usually pretty obvious.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Get it. All those codes are minor issues.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

P0325 doesn't mean it's knocking, just means the sensor is bad.
In reality iths probably a ghost code though, and will clear up when the other two are remedied.

yippzter

Yeah I know knock sensor doesn't mean engine got knocks but what if knock sensor actually works, its could be knocks. But I don't hear any knocks or pings there I assume sensor is faulted.


I read a lot about p1320. Its common issue for maxima isn't it? Just need to buy 6 OEM coils and see what happen.


p1105 shouldn't be hard. Just clean TB right?

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

read post #2, don't go throwing money at the max. chance of putting part on you don't need: 50/50. i have my original coils at 270,000, so, sea foam, clean maf, remove each coil connector and see if the RPM drops, if there in no RPM drop when removing a connector then that coil cylinder is not firing. even though knock sensor is a ghost code, it does affect gas mileage. i have a bad knock sensor, when i replaced it the first time it ran the same but the gas mileage improved a little.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

This will never hapen. The engine regularly knocks, the knock sensor senses it, and the ECU backs off the timing to stop it. This is normal operation and will not trigger a code.

If you have a KS code it means one of two things.
1. There is nothing wrong at all, the code is a ghost caused by the other two codes.
or
2. The sensor is bad, and the ECU has gone full retard as a precaution, to save the engine from knocking it wont be able to detect.

Either way, you don't have a knock unless something is seriously FUBARed.

What is the asking price?

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

yippzter

All right I just bought 99 nissan maxima. its got misfire so codes are p0300 and p0355. So there are couple issues. I am not sure if it is exhaust or intake manifold from on the top. Here the picture.



I was trying to find 3 more ignition coils but I don't know where is it. Is it under exhaust/intake manifold?

There is oil leak from exhaust/intake manifold. I just check valve cover and its sealed. How its possible oil leak from exhaust/intake manifold?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Next time post this up in the "I'm new here" section found in the stickies instead of thread jacking someone else's thread.

That being said, that's your upper intake manifold, and the gasket is probably just old and worn out.
Not a big issue unless you have a vacuum leak there.

All 6 coils are accessible without removing anything major.
The front 3 are under the plastic cover.
Just a few Hex head screws holding that in.
The rear coils are in the back between the UIM near the firewall, but still on top of the engine.

Have you ever seen an exhaust manifold on top of an engine?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

vqmaxman

The ks sensor lets the ecu go in safe mode when the ks senses the knocking from the motor pinging. The code can come up as an actual code or an ghost code.

yippzter

Finally I replaced valve cover gasket due oil leak and spark plug seal got ripped. Of course I put RTV silicone on the corner where fsm shows. Also I did unplug the coils see if any misfire and only 1 coil isn't working. The question is can I buy 1 coil or do I have to buy all 6 coils?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Just one and OEM is highly recommended.
Used OEM is typically better than new aftermarket.

Rockauto has OEM for cheaper than the dealer.

yippzter

Hey guys. I was digging all the way down to rear valve cover to replace gasket. When I was putting them back. I know I am not missing anything. There were things behind of intake manifold are 2 bolts that hold manifold, 2 bolts egr to manifold, 2 hoses to manifold from somewhere else (I forgot). Then I put the rest back together. So when I started it up and looked around engine bay to make sure there is no leak. I was testing my car to rev up to 7k rpm then saw my engine light was blinking. I knew it was misfire so I got code and its ignition signal and cylinder 4 misfire. I thought maybe I drive it around for little to warm up and get gas and drove back home. Then engine light still there so I swapped coil cyl 4 and cyl 2. And cleared codes. I was waiting for the engine light on to come back to see if coil is faulted or not. But the engine light didn't come back and I tried to rev up to 7k rpm see if its come back but nope... I am guessing coil isn't fault? or how did it disappear?

Let me know if im missing anything.









Thanks!

yippzter

there is a video after UIM

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Why are you revving it so high in neutral/park?7K rpms? Just drive it and hold it in a lower gear, like turn OD off, or something.

yippzter

I want to see if everything is hooked up and run good. But its seem to be okay after I swapped coil from cyl 4 and cyl 2. Im gonna swap them back and drive in low rpm then see if codes come back. But if codes come back, its not making sense right?