08 Altima vq35 into 2003 maxima
12-10-2013, 11:28 AM
#81
I will try and get a log from Torque tonight, hopefully we can get enough data points to make it worth while. It's pulling timing around 4k rpm, then giving it back last I looked. That's a big issue I want to get sorted before the dyno. Still figuring out the programs-- I haven't had a lot of time to mess with it yet, but i'm down for an excuse.
12-10-2013, 01:15 PM
#82
I will try and get a log from Torque tonight, hopefully we can get enough data points to make it worth while. It's pulling timing around 4k rpm, then giving it back last I looked. That's a big issue I want to get sorted before the dyno. Still figuring out the programs-- I haven't had a lot of time to mess with it yet, but i'm down for an excuse.
These are mine and I have the relative ynos, and my peak torque value is always where that dip is.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
12-10-2013, 02:11 PM
#83
Looking at your dyno graph it doesn't look like you have the same lack of lull of power i'm thinking of, although your graph doesn't start until 3750rpm or so.
12-10-2013, 03:48 PM
#84
It's just the nature of the combustion process, torque/hp/ VE, etc with the min timing value coinciding with peak torque. Yeah, damn automatics will downshift if you go WOT before 3700 or so.
12-10-2013, 03:52 PM
#85
this is what I was able to get from torque. The timing advance really helped with the problem around 4k rpm. Its not nearly as bad and the car feels a lot more powerful. But you can see im not peaking nearly what you are-- I think i'm peaking at around 26 or 27 degrees. There has got to be more in this engine!
torque isnt that accurate due to the slow feedback from the elm device but you can kinda see the curve.
Last edited by q.man06; 12-10-2013 at 04:02 PM.
02-07-2014, 06:45 PM
#86
if its a 08 maxima vq its no issue. swap upper oil pans from old motor maybe fuel rail, knock sensor done.
if its a 08 altima vq then its a whole different issue. as this thread is for 08 altima vq.
if its a 08 altima vq then its a whole different issue. as this thread is for 08 altima vq.
02-26-2014, 11:09 AM
#88
I'm assuming you're using the 03 MAF? If not, might want to.
UIM needs to be switched because 04-08 had external EGR, and the 04-08 manifold has a connection for it, but on the 02-03, it does not, that's why. Or, you can buy a block off plate from NWP and re-use the 04-08 mani.
And the UOP needs to be switched out becasue the the CVT on the 08 is different than the 02-03 4AT and 6MT.
UIM needs to be switched because 04-08 had external EGR, and the 04-08 manifold has a connection for it, but on the 02-03, it does not, that's why. Or, you can buy a block off plate from NWP and re-use the 04-08 mani.
And the UOP needs to be switched out becasue the the CVT on the 08 is different than the 02-03 4AT and 6MT.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 02-26-2014 at 11:16 AM.
08-06-2014, 02:08 PM
#90
Honestly no. I don't see me putting it on a dyno anytime soon. The car has just basically turned into my go-to reliable transportation. I have lots of other projects that take all my time/money.
I've crossed over 234k on the car, which brings my total distance to 27k on the swap. I'll probably update when I get to the 30K mark, which is when the car gets ALL of it's fluids changed.
It's my daily commuter vehicle, about 50 miles per day.
It runs great, has it's few little quirks like i've posted earlier but nothing has changed. Runs real smooth and has good enough power. I plan on driving the car for many years to come.
and supra11, seriously? start your own thread or do some research. All the info you would ever need is on this forum.
I've crossed over 234k on the car, which brings my total distance to 27k on the swap. I'll probably update when I get to the 30K mark, which is when the car gets ALL of it's fluids changed.
It's my daily commuter vehicle, about 50 miles per day.
It runs great, has it's few little quirks like i've posted earlier but nothing has changed. Runs real smooth and has good enough power. I plan on driving the car for many years to come.
and supra11, seriously? start your own thread or do some research. All the info you would ever need is on this forum.
Last edited by q.man06; 08-06-2014 at 02:14 PM.
10-28-2014, 07:41 AM
#92
No CEL's. I've got just under 30K clocked on the swap. Runs great. If I'd change anything I would get it tuned for some better power output, but as it sits I have more power than it's ever had. Consistently getting 25 mpg, 100% stock otherwise.
Good luck on the swap, it's becoming quite common now it seems. Pretty easy to do.
Good luck on the swap, it's becoming quite common now it seems. Pretty easy to do.
10-28-2014, 05:09 PM
#95
10-28-2014, 06:52 PM
#96
I thought you advanced the cam trigger wheels? If not you will be getting cam codes. With the Maxima and Altima motors, they both have to be moved.
10-28-2014, 06:53 PM
#97
No CEL's. I've got just under 30K clocked on the swap. Runs great. If I'd change anything I would get it tuned for some better power output, but as it sits I have more power than it's ever had. Consistently getting 25 mpg, 100% stock otherwise.
Good luck on the swap, it's becoming quite common now it seems. Pretty easy to do.
Good luck on the swap, it's becoming quite common now it seems. Pretty easy to do.
10-28-2014, 06:56 PM
#98
10-28-2014, 06:56 PM
#99
10-28-2014, 07:03 PM
#100
But I was revving it high a lot 
11-04-2014, 07:28 PM
#101
Dammit, Darren was right 
They finally popped on.
Interestingly, primary O2s are now throwing codes (plus disconnected secondaries
). I guess they're bad (car runs fine, but does seem rich).
Oh, well, they're just codes. Passed inspection, tonight.
They finally popped on.Interestingly, primary O2s are now throwing codes (plus disconnected secondaries
). I guess they're bad (car runs fine, but does seem rich).Oh, well, they're just codes. Passed inspection, tonight.
11-05-2014, 04:25 AM
#103
so with the cam codes on, this shuts down the ivt system, so cams do not advance.It will not run good like this.
11-05-2014, 07:17 AM
#104
11-06-2014, 05:12 AM
#107
: didn't read the file names. Would you email the .drfs to schmellyfart(at)gmail.com?
11-06-2014, 08:41 PM
#109
Zero oil consumption. I actually, and shamefully, only check my oil before I change it anymore. It's pretty nice!
The best part about the swap? it took away the terribly annoying engine pinging completely. I can actually rev it out 100% and not be worried. It literally runs better than it did when I first bought it 130k miles ago. I'd do one again in a heartbeat.
Maybe one day i'll get the AF ratio looked at to see what it's like at WOT with no tuning.
There are zero downsides to this motor swap. Everything to gain, nothing to lose.
11-06-2014, 08:44 PM
#110
Yeah, they took a bit for mine to show up at first. Never ran poorly, just weaker. I'm still on original O2 sensors somehow *knock on wood*
12-14-2014, 12:13 PM
#111
I was wondering how far to turn it, but then I realized I can calculate it (even with my anemic mathematical skills). The diameter of the wheel is 42mm, so the circumference is about 132mm. That's about .366 mm for each degree, so there's 3.3 mm of distance that it needs to be turned
Edit: Total failure. Nothing changed.
Car Gauge Pro said intake timing was at 23.5* if that even means anything
Edit: Total failure. Nothing changed.
Car Gauge Pro said intake timing was at 23.5* if that even means anything
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-14-2014 at 04:05 PM.
12-14-2014, 08:29 PM
#113
Pretty much any little amount you spin it should result with it being within spec, so it doesn't throw the codes.
I don't think he took after pics.
I'm not amused.
Also, for future reference, hold the cam. Rear bank started turning the motor over when I cranked down the wheel. Luckily, the way the teeth and alignment tabs are located, I could reset the wheel to the correct position (it can slip and turn the cam at the same time).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-15-2014 at 08:33 AM.
12-17-2014, 02:24 PM
#114
Both banks throw codes. And since it can be at least 5 degrees off, it doesn't make sense. 5 +- is too much of a margin of error for me to screw it up.
Pretty much any little amount you spin it should result with it being within spec, so it doesn't throw the codes.
I don't think he took after pics.
I'm not amused.
Also, for future reference, hold the cam. Rear bank started turning the motor over when I cranked down the wheel. Luckily, the way the teeth and alignment tabs are located, I could reset the wheel to the correct position (it can slip and turn the cam at the same time).
Pretty much any little amount you spin it should result with it being within spec, so it doesn't throw the codes.
I don't think he took after pics.
I'm not amused.
Also, for future reference, hold the cam. Rear bank started turning the motor over when I cranked down the wheel. Luckily, the way the teeth and alignment tabs are located, I could reset the wheel to the correct position (it can slip and turn the cam at the same time).
I honestly can't remember which way I turned them, and Darren's thread is mystically gone - which has that information.
Working with Darren now to get that answer.
Mine still need tweaking. I did the 2 deg advanced through the ECU to get me running right because I didn't want to redo the signal plates. I'll get around to it someday lol.
12-17-2014, 02:51 PM
#115
Just tried going through my old pictures that I took. I didn't take after pictures :/
I honestly can't remember which way I turned them, and Darren's thread is mystically gone - which has that information.
Working with Darren now to get that answer.
Mine still need tweaking. I did the 2 deg advanced through the ECU to get me running right because I didn't want to redo the signal plates. I'll get around to it someday lol.
I honestly can't remember which way I turned them, and Darren's thread is mystically gone - which has that information.
Working with Darren now to get that answer.
Mine still need tweaking. I did the 2 deg advanced through the ECU to get me running right because I didn't want to redo the signal plates. I'll get around to it someday lol.
12-17-2014, 03:16 PM
#116
True, but they are related to some extent as both affect base timing. Heard back from Darren. He said .138 ( I assume inches) counter-clockwise if you're looking at the plates from the drivers side of the car. Or rather, 9 degrees.
12-17-2014, 03:18 PM
#117
Something must be different on this pile.
I guess I could keep going a do a couple mm more, ****, idk.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 12-17-2014 at 03:22 PM.
12-17-2014, 03:40 PM
#119
12-17-2014, 03:49 PM
#120
I was thinking in the case of 2 per, mixing those up in relation to the plug.
I literally haven't worked on this maxima of mine since the swap, and it's coming up on 2 years now.