I will try and get a log from Torque tonight, hopefully we can get enough data points to make it worth while. It's pulling timing around 4k rpm, then giving it back last I looked. That's a big issue I want to get sorted before the dyno. Still figuring out the programs-- I haven't had a lot of time to mess with it yet, but i'm down for an excuse.

 

That's valid, peak torque is typically, and should be lowest timing value on the curve.


These are mine and I have the relative ynos, and my peak torque value is always where that dip is.



[IMG][/IMG]

 

Interesting. So is it normal to have a "kick" of power right after the computer starts putting timing back in? It's like the engine lulls right at that spot where the timing reaches the low point. Best way I can describe it is it feels like a dual cam VTEC engine does when VTEC engages.

Looking at your dyno graph it doesn't look like you have the same lack of lull of power i'm thinking of, although your graph doesn't start until 3750rpm or so.

 

It's just the nature of the combustion process, torque/hp/ VE, etc with the min timing value coinciding with peak torque. Yeah, damn automatics will downshift if you go WOT before 3700 or so.

 

this is what I was able to get from torque. The timing advance really helped with the problem around 4k rpm. Its not nearly as bad and the car feels a lot more powerful. But you can see im not peaking nearly what you are-- I think i'm peaking at around 26 or 27 degrees. There has got to be more in this engine!

torque isnt that accurate due to the slow feedback from the elm device but you can kinda see the curve.

 

if its a 08 maxima vq its no issue. swap upper oil pans from old motor maybe fuel rail, knock sensor done.


if its a 08 altima vq then its a whole different issue. as this thread is for 08 altima vq.

 

I'm next on the 6MT + 5.7 list

 

I'm assuming you're using the 03 MAF? If not, might want to.

UIM needs to be switched because 04-08 had external EGR, and the 04-08 manifold has a connection for it, but on the 02-03, it does not, that's why. Or, you can buy a block off plate from NWP and re-use the 04-08 mani.





And the UOP needs to be switched out becasue the the CVT on the 08 is different than the 02-03 4AT and 6MT.

 

Any updates on a dyno run maybe??

 

Honestly no. I don't see me putting it on a dyno anytime soon. The car has just basically turned into my go-to reliable transportation. I have lots of other projects that take all my time/money.

I've crossed over 234k on the car, which brings my total distance to 27k on the swap. I'll probably update when I get to the 30K mark, which is when the car gets ALL of it's fluids changed.

It's my daily commuter vehicle, about 50 miles per day.

It runs great, has it's few little quirks like i've posted earlier but nothing has changed. Runs real smooth and has good enough power. I plan on driving the car for many years to come.


and supra11, seriously? start your own thread or do some research. All the info you would ever need is on this forum.

 

any updates on the swap ANY CEL or issues.....going to be doing this swap in a few months

 

No CEL's. I've got just under 30K clocked on the swap. Runs great. If I'd change anything I would get it tuned for some better power output, but as it sits I have more power than it's ever had. Consistently getting 25 mpg, 100% stock otherwise.


Good luck on the swap, it's becoming quite common now it seems. Pretty easy to do.

 

Maybe I've missed something. Why were you messing with the cam plates?

 

Cam plates have to be adjusted to keep from throwing codes. They are off by a little bit when compared to the 03 motor. See suratt's thread for the full explanation.

 

I guess I skipped over that...

No codes on my swap.

 

I thought you advanced the cam trigger wheels? If not you will be getting cam codes. With the Maxima and Altima motors, they both have to be moved.

 

probably the highest miles on the swap! Its def more common even to people that are untuned and stock. It gives new life to 4 gallons a month oil consumption 5.5 gens.

 

Maybe the really new ones are a little different? It is a 2013 model. It's not like you can trust nissan LOL

 

Na i dont think so, how many miles have you put on your swap?

 

Admittedly, not a lot (don't keep track). Just drives around town. But I was revving it high a lot

I should be doing a trip over 150 miles, soon, so I can report back.

 

Dammit, Darren was right They finally popped on.

Interestingly, primary O2s are now throwing codes (plus disconnected secondaries ). I guess they're bad (car runs fine, but does seem rich).

Oh, well, they're just codes. Passed inspection, tonight.

 

please keep this thread alive on any changes of any sort for this swap I plan on doing this but do not want any issues of any kind.....

 

so with the cam codes on, this shuts down the ivt system, so cams do not advance.

It will not run good like this.

 

Low end loss, but raped ape after 4k.
We'll see what the TS ecu says.

 

with ivt off, runs 9 then 10. major power loss , till 6500+

 

Hmm do you have any dynos with EVT on/off?

 

compare run 9 and 11

evt has pretty decent power gains, both of my cam tables are self tuned so probably could of used some more adjusting.

 

: didn't read the file names. Would you email the .drfs to schmellyfart(at)gmail.com?

 

Agreed. I'm completely untuned, and commute ~60 miles/day to work.

Zero oil consumption. I actually, and shamefully, only check my oil before I change it anymore. It's pretty nice!

The best part about the swap? it took away the terribly annoying engine pinging completely. I can actually rev it out 100% and not be worried. It literally runs better than it did when I first bought it 130k miles ago. I'd do one again in a heartbeat.

Maybe one day i'll get the AF ratio looked at to see what it's like at WOT with no tuning.

There are zero downsides to this motor swap. Everything to gain, nothing to lose.

 

Yeah, they took a bit for mine to show up at first. Never ran poorly, just weaker. I'm still on original O2 sensors somehow *knock on wood*

 

I was wondering how far to turn it, but then I realized I can calculate it (even with my anemic mathematical skills). The diameter of the wheel is 42mm, so the circumference is about 132mm. That's about .366 mm for each degree, so there's 3.3 mm of distance that it needs to be turned

Edit: Total failure. Nothing changed.

Car Gauge Pro said intake timing was at 23.5* if that even means anything

 

So the 3.3 mm adjustment didn't change a thing? I viewed g.man06's pics with the signal wheel and marker...and If he changed it I didn't see change...

 

Both banks throw codes. And since it can be at least 5 degrees off, it doesn't make sense. 5 +- is too much of a margin of error for me to screw it up.
Pretty much any little amount you spin it should result with it being within spec, so it doesn't throw the codes.

I don't think he took after pics.

I'm not amused.

Also, for future reference, hold the cam. Rear bank started turning the motor over when I cranked down the wheel. Luckily, the way the teeth and alignment tabs are located, I could reset the wheel to the correct position (it can slip and turn the cam at the same time).

 

Just tried going through my old pictures that I took. I didn't take after pictures :/

I honestly can't remember which way I turned them, and Darren's thread is mystically gone - which has that information.

Working with Darren now to get that answer.

Mine still need tweaking. I did the 2 deg advanced through the ECU to get me running right because I didn't want to redo the signal plates. I'll get around to it someday lol.

 

That 2* advance is ignition timing.

 

True, but they are related to some extent as both affect base timing. Heard back from Darren. He said .138 ( I assume inches) counter-clockwise if you're looking at the plates from the drivers side of the car. Or rather, 9 degrees.

 

He rounded up, that's 3.5mm. I did it right.

Something must be different on this pile.

I guess I could keep going a do a couple mm more, ****, idk.

 

IVT wires swapped by chance? I never extended mine but read your thread that showed you did.

 

It's impossible b/c they're so far apart and they'd have to reach all the way across the timing cover LOL

 

Pulling ideas out of my *** here lol. Is there only one wire per IVT? Or two?

I was thinking in the case of 2 per, mixing those up in relation to the plug.

I literally haven't worked on this maxima of mine since the swap, and it's coming up on 2 years now.