Looking at 2003 Maxima - power problem?
#1
Looking at 2003 Maxima - power problem?
Hi folks,
I looked at a 2002 Q45 a few weeks ago, but too cosmetically challenged for the price.
Last week I looked at and drove a 2003 Maxima SE 6-speed with 172,000 kms. The interior was perfect, the exterior had lots of surface scratches like it kept getting washed with dirty brushes and rags. Also quite a few rock chips on the leading edge of the hood.
It started, idled and ran great, BUT it was already up to temp before I got there so inconclusive. It did pull a bit to the right and it wasn't torque-steer. Then I used full throttle in second gear. It revved to 4000 RPM and fell flat. Gradually got to 4500 but NO power after 4000. I tried again in first and second - same thing pulled strong to 4000 and no more.
The seller was with me and saw the tach the second time when I told him what happened (didn't notice it the first time, he said). He called after to say his mechanic checked and found no codes and couldn't duplicate the problem. He has been driving it since and said it drives great, pulls strong all the way to redline. I don't believe in magic fixes (apparently nothing was found and fixed). My thoughts were dirty MAF filament or blocked cat. I don't think either would fix itself.
Any thoughts on the engine issue?
Thanks,
Glenn
I looked at a 2002 Q45 a few weeks ago, but too cosmetically challenged for the price.
Last week I looked at and drove a 2003 Maxima SE 6-speed with 172,000 kms. The interior was perfect, the exterior had lots of surface scratches like it kept getting washed with dirty brushes and rags. Also quite a few rock chips on the leading edge of the hood.
It started, idled and ran great, BUT it was already up to temp before I got there so inconclusive. It did pull a bit to the right and it wasn't torque-steer. Then I used full throttle in second gear. It revved to 4000 RPM and fell flat. Gradually got to 4500 but NO power after 4000. I tried again in first and second - same thing pulled strong to 4000 and no more.
The seller was with me and saw the tach the second time when I told him what happened (didn't notice it the first time, he said). He called after to say his mechanic checked and found no codes and couldn't duplicate the problem. He has been driving it since and said it drives great, pulls strong all the way to redline. I don't believe in magic fixes (apparently nothing was found and fixed). My thoughts were dirty MAF filament or blocked cat. I don't think either would fix itself.
Any thoughts on the engine issue?
Thanks,
Glenn
Last edited by slovcan; 09-12-2014 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Added info
#4
TPS throwing open loop at whatever % of throttle? the TPS can lose ohm resistance and cause fuel mapping and trans settings to be a "guessing game" Fuel pressure failing? those things don't fix themselves :-/
Last edited by 00Lightsout; 09-16-2014 at 08:28 PM.
#5
Thanks guys,
So, for sure not the MAF (I saw 4000 and 4500 RPM).
Yes, maybe the cat, but could it clear it's own blockage? Seems unlikely to me.
TPS would trigger a fault code, wouldn't it?
I wouldn't think a failing fuel pump would return to normal the next day. FPR? But, then there's the lack of a fault code.
I really don't know what to think...
Thanks,
Glenn
So, for sure not the MAF (I saw 4000 and 4500 RPM).
Yes, maybe the cat, but could it clear it's own blockage? Seems unlikely to me.
TPS would trigger a fault code, wouldn't it?
I wouldn't think a failing fuel pump would return to normal the next day. FPR? But, then there's the lack of a fault code.
I really don't know what to think...
Thanks,
Glenn
#8
I'm suspecting MAF
Total MAF failure = 2500 rpm limit in safe mode
I would try unplugging the MAF on that car and see what happens. It definitely shouldn't rev past 2500. But mainly, if the car acts and idles no different when you unplug the MAF with it running, you know the MAF needs replacement.
You can also look at MAF readings at WOT if you got a scanner. Should be around 170-180 g/s on a healthy stock VQ35 from what I've seen, if lower than 150 g/s then that MAF is definitely bad.
Total MAF failure = 2500 rpm limit in safe mode
I would try unplugging the MAF on that car and see what happens. It definitely shouldn't rev past 2500. But mainly, if the car acts and idles no different when you unplug the MAF with it running, you know the MAF needs replacement.
You can also look at MAF readings at WOT if you got a scanner. Should be around 170-180 g/s on a healthy stock VQ35 from what I've seen, if lower than 150 g/s then that MAF is definitely bad.
#9
I'm suspecting MAF
Total MAF failure = 2500 rpm limit in safe mode
I would try unplugging the MAF on that car and see what happens. It definitely shouldn't rev past 2500. But mainly, if the car acts and idles no different when you unplug the MAF with it running, you know the MAF needs replacement.
You can also look at MAF readings at WOT if you got a scanner. Should be around 170-180 g/s on a healthy stock VQ35 from what I've seen, if lower than 150 g/s then that MAF is definitely bad.
Total MAF failure = 2500 rpm limit in safe mode
I would try unplugging the MAF on that car and see what happens. It definitely shouldn't rev past 2500. But mainly, if the car acts and idles no different when you unplug the MAF with it running, you know the MAF needs replacement.
You can also look at MAF readings at WOT if you got a scanner. Should be around 170-180 g/s on a healthy stock VQ35 from what I've seen, if lower than 150 g/s then that MAF is definitely bad.
Earlier somebody said the RPM limit would be 3500 with a bad MAF. Either way, it went to 4000-4500 (no power after 4000) 3 times in succession. According to the seller it has not happened since (maybe 100-200 kms).
The consensus seems to be MAF, plugged cat or TPS. Is there something else it realistically could be? I do use Techron Concentrate or Seafoam regularly in my bikes and cars - maybe every couple of months. If it acts up right away (IF we buy it) and nothing else is obvious, I'll try it for a week or two to see if it makes any difference. I'm planning to look at and drive the car again tomorrow. If I don't see anything in the way of red flags missed before, I plan to buy it.
Thanks,
Glenn
#12
Bought the 2003 Maxima 6-speed
Quick update, bought the car yesterday. Runs great. Seller says nothing was done to repair it, mechanic couldn't duplicate the problem, no codes. It has a paper air filter, clean but not new. Exhaust looks original and not tampered with (don't think any cat work was done). Fingers crossed. Love it.
Cheers,
Glenn
Cheers,
Glenn
#13
Quick update, bought the car yesterday. Runs great. Seller says nothing was done to repair it, mechanic couldn't duplicate the problem, no codes. It has a paper air filter, clean but not new. Exhaust looks original and not tampered with (don't think any cat work was done). Fingers crossed. Love it.
Cheers,
Glenn
Cheers,
Glenn
#15
Thanks folks. Still enjoying the car.
Odd thing happened a couple of nights ago - left rear caliper stuck. I let it sit until today. Then I started it and it rolled a bit without coaxing. I took out the pads, checked the slider pins (free moving, clean and lubed, not the problem), park brake cable moves freely so not that. I took off the park brake lever (it was against the stop) and cleaned around it. It does move. The piston is stuck - cannot screw it back in. I cleaned under the rubber seal around the piston and sprayed some penetrating lube around it and tapped the piston and caliper around the piston sharply with a light ball peen - still wouldn't turn. I put it back together and everything works as it should. I guess she'll get new calipers and ceramic pads in the near future.
Cheers,
Glenn
Odd thing happened a couple of nights ago - left rear caliper stuck. I let it sit until today. Then I started it and it rolled a bit without coaxing. I took out the pads, checked the slider pins (free moving, clean and lubed, not the problem), park brake cable moves freely so not that. I took off the park brake lever (it was against the stop) and cleaned around it. It does move. The piston is stuck - cannot screw it back in. I cleaned under the rubber seal around the piston and sprayed some penetrating lube around it and tapped the piston and caliper around the piston sharply with a light ball peen - still wouldn't turn. I put it back together and everything works as it should. I guess she'll get new calipers and ceramic pads in the near future.
Cheers,
Glenn
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