erictown

As you can see in pics, my question is, what part is this leaking spot? and should there be any cure to stop it?

not bad leaking so far, drip trace on garage floor. I change oil every 6 month and there's only about 1 pint less.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

It's either the rear main seal or the seal on the transmission shaft. If you're not loosing ATF then it's going to be the rear main.

It's a pretty involved fix. Lots of work. There's no quick fix.

erictown

holly nightmare!

I guess I will start from StopLeak...anyway, not a bad leak so far.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

StopLeak wont help this type of leak. Just keep an eye on it. It will slowly get worse but you've got some time before it becomes a problem. This is normal wear as you get close to 200,000 on these cars.

pinellas50

I had oil leaking in the same place as well as on the other side of the engine by the crank pulley. It was the oil pan gasket.

erictown

exactly! mine too! I'm not sure where it's from yet, just cleaned the area with brake cleaner, will see later where the leakage is.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

The leak behind the crank pulley is the front main seal. It seems to go out around the same time as the rear main. It's a much easier job to fix though.

It's possible that the oil pan is leaking but these oil pans usually don't leak unless they've been messed with. If you cleaned the area and see new oil from behind the pulley it's definitely the front main seal. I'd replace the front seal and swap both belts at the same time. Leave the rear alone until it becomes a problem.

The problem with oil leaks isn't really the loss of oil. The problem is that the oil coats the rubber suspension mounts and bushings. The oil will quickly deteriorate them leading to more expensive repairs.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Most of the time the source of leak is the half moon rubber gasket of upper oil pan. It might be the rear main seal, which will present as a massive leak. Just periodically check the engine proper oil level by following the Nissan Owners Manual. Use 10W/40W to minimized oil leak. For Front seal, you need to fix it as stated by other member.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

And the rears aren't worth fixing. They will slowly leak forever, usually, but big whoop.

Oil pan has to come off for the crescent. I'd rather just motor swap (cmon, more 5.7s).

Donkeypunch

Do it right and fix it.
Wouldn't u like having a completely leak free engine you don't have to worry for another 15 years?

It'll take a weekend. Make time.

2000whitemax

I just recentlygot a 2000 Maxima with the 3.0, exactly where I am leaking from in a fairly steady drip from picture on first post above. This is the first front wheel drive I have owned. I am wondering what a shop will charge to fix something like this. I have done body swaps on trucks and rear wheel drive cars, rebuilt motors, transmissions swaps. Never worked on a front wheel drive. I have a Haynes Manual being shipped to me. Currently searching the site for information on doing this repair. Any special tools required to do this? Something a home mechanic can do? I have a fairly well setup shop with quite a few tools.

Upper Oil Pan Removal thread https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...n-removal.html

Upper Oil Pan Seal https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...seal-leak.html


I have been finding some information and adding it to here as I find it.

maxiiiboy

You'll need the shop manual. You can download it from here: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/ .

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I'd imagine a shop would charge a lot for the repair. It's a lot of work.

It sounds like you have the skills and shop to do it.

It can be done at home if you can get the car high enough. 4 fully extended jack stands should give you enough room. A scissor style tranny jack is very helpful too. The tranny is bulky, heavy and a tight fit so the jack helps.

Spend the money on a good RTV like Honda Bond for the oil pans.