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Fluids and Lubricants Motor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.

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Old 05-11-2009, 02:15 PM   #1
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Best engine oil to use with 167Kmile Max 97

Hi
1-What is the best and/or most expensive ? what do you use ?

2-How much new oil does it take after draining the whole old oil (with filter replacement ) ?

3-Do you recommend in 167K (newly purchased , my first oil change) to put 1/2 can of seafoam in engine oil and wait for 10 min idling then drain ?

thanks

Last edited by mahanddeem; 05-11-2009 at 02:17 PM..
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:36 PM   #2
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http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...viscosity.html

Read that post for oil info.

I use Mobile 1 5w30 great oil

tips:
I hate to say it but buy your oil at wal-mart you can get there 5 quart jug for only a little more than a 4 quart jug is at autozone. With the 5 quart jug it's like you do 6 oil changes and get the 7th for free.


Don't use fram filters

the VQ30 holds exactly 4 liters or 4.25 quarts

Last edited by Jesse729; 05-11-2009 at 02:38 PM..
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:30 PM   #3
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i switched to mobli1 and have no complaints.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:12 PM   #4
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i just bought a 98 maxima 3 weeks ago, and i have the same question. The second week driving my max i got this rotten egg smell, my friends said i might need an oil change? or maybe i need tolet the car warm up since i had left it untouched for over a week, no idea.. im thinkin of changin the antifreeze, powersteering, and engine oil.. anything else i should do? the car has 118,xxx miles.. i was readin up on seafoam.. should i do that?
another thing last week i was messing with the windows and radio while the key was in(engine wasnt on) and my batteries died i had to jump.. but then i didnt kno i had to let the battery recharge for at least 20minutes. so this morning my car alarm went off, and since the batteries were dyin all i heard was a chirpin sound.. the car didnt have enough battery to let me use the remote key.. =(.. if the battery died that quick, i might need to get anew one right?
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:21 PM   #5
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:01 PM   #6
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Yes, your battery's probably going bad, but start the car and drive 20-30 minutes on highway, preferrably with headlites off. This may give enough charge to keep going a while. Go to Autozone or somewhere and have Alt & battery checked. You may NOT need one.

As for the Seafoam, lots of people seem to think it doesn't do much, ... read more threads about it. I thought like you when I first joined, luckily it was getting cold and I didn't get around to it, then I decided to let it go. I've not had a desire to do it since. When you do oil change, put on a cheap filter (like fram) and drive a week or two; then take it off and put on a good filter (like NAPA Gold or OEM. This'll clean out a lot of junk into the Fram, then throw it away. If you're quick changing the filters, you may not lose much oil. Have everything tready, and don't do it when the engine is TOO HOT to touch.

Good luck ---
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:55 AM   #7
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i don't know if anyone else has heard this or readit but supposedly it is proven that you lose up to 10lbs of oil pressure by using a fram filter!! I have always ran mobile-1 and a wix/napa filter 10/30 in summer and 5/30 in winter thats just a personal preferance though..
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Old 05-17-2009, 06:07 AM   #8
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Mobil 1 is a great oil, but I always found with my GM cars that if you have over 75K miles and switch you are asking for leaks. I have no idea about the Nissans, but I just use Castrol GTX.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1quikta View Post
Mobil 1 is a great oil, but I always found with my GM cars that if you have over 75K miles and switch you are asking for leaks. I have no idea about the Nissans, but I just use Castrol GTX.
Comparing a Nissan to a GM engine is not a valid comparison. Converting a Nissan engine to a quality/properly formulated synthetic oil will not result in leaks providing the engine has been properly maintained and is in sound mechanical condition.
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:53 PM   #10
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I changed my Toyota to synthetic at 120,000 mi. Started leaking badly.
Changed over to synthetic on my Dodge Caravan at 100,000 mi. No leaks in 4 years. Changed my Maxima to synthetic at 80,000 mi. No leaks in 4 years.
Changed over my Honda at 90,000 mi. no leaks in 5 years.
Changed a few other cars over at high miles also, no leaks.
So, my Totota was the lone exception.
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:33 PM   #11
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mobil 1 5w30 is my oil of choice and i only pair it w/ the mobil 1 filter and to capitalize on what jesse said yes you should buy from wal mart...because over time you will save a ton.
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:40 PM   #12
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how about high mileage oils?
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #13
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Idk about high millage oils, supposedly they have additives in them to help rings seal better, bunch of bs to me.
As far as the best oils, I use Eneos 5w-30 fully synthetic oil. Its the highest quality oil in japan, think of it as a Japanese Amsoil if you will. I go 5k miles between intervals with this stuff. I also pair it with a genuine Nissan oil filter. I got 2 oil filters at my Nissan dealer for 10 bucks. Eneos is not cheap at $8 a quart, and may be hard to find in your area. I get it from a local tuning shop who mainly does supras evo's, tt cars.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:37 PM   #14
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Castrol GTX...cant go wrong
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:51 PM   #15
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How do y'all use 5w-30 oil?, I tried it in both motors, and I'm not sure if because the 5w-30 is so thin that it made my motor make a loud ticking sound. As soon as I went to 10w-30, ticking gone. But I use castrol synthetic 10w-30, with fram tough guard filter
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:40 AM   #16
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supertech 10w40. Only way to go man............
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Old 06-22-2009, 03:15 PM   #17
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you want to know whats the best oil? for my money if i had pick 1
out of the bunch it would be ROYAL PURPLE why? hot roders
use it and so do a lot of proffesional techs swear by it in my car i

i have used 10.000kms ago along with the BG MOA oil additive and
a fram xg synthetic oil filter and so far its running quiter,smoother
i can actually hear and feel a little bit of a difference its almost like the internall
parts are working effertlosly together royal purple along with BG MOA
gets my thumbs up
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:31 PM   #18
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ive heard good reports on royal purple as well, i have yet to use it, but imma get on it next change.

Why are fram filters ones to stay away from? ive never had problems and my trany psi seems to be normal and constant. Just wondering
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:25 AM   #19
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ive heard good reports on royal purple as well, i have yet to use it, but imma get on it next change.

Why are fram filters ones to stay away from? ive never had problems and my trany psi seems to be normal and constant. Just wondering

yah i heard that to its there el cheapo orange coloured tough gaurds
that they had problems with because the paper element inside would
rupture break off sending pieces of paper circulating through the engine
stay away from those ones i use there fram XG synthetic oil filter
its a much better engineered built filter the element is a synthetic
kind thats a lot stronger especially usefull if your extending oil changes

its alot better built filter
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:26 PM   #20
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nobody i know has had problems with seafoam, but i dont believe in putting in additives or cleaners into any of my cars.

If you don't have any oil leaks, go with a Mobil 1 5W-30 and Mobil 1 oil filter. If you have leaks, go 10W-30. Don't use Royal Purple. its good, but its expensive, and if you want to spend that much money, get Amsoil instead.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:04 PM   #21
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nobody i know has had problems with seafoam, but i dont believe in putting in additives or cleaners into any of my cars.

If you don't have any oil leaks, go with a Mobil 1 5W-30 and Mobil 1 oil filter. If you have leaks, go 10W-30. Don't use Royal Purple. its good, but its expensive, and if you want to spend that much money, get Amsoil instead.
A 5w-30 and a 10w-30 fall into the same viscosity range at operating temps and will make no difference in an engine that leaks oil. The primary difference between these two viscosities is that the 5w- oil will be slightly thinner and flow a little better than a 10w oil will in the dead of winter. But both of the oils will be thick at the test standard of zero degrees.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:39 PM   #22
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A 5w-30 and a 10w-30 fall into the same viscosity range at operating temps and will make no difference in an engine that leaks oil. The primary difference between these two viscosities is that the 5w- oil will be slightly thinner and flow a little better than a 10w oil will in the dead of winter. But both of the oils will be thick at the test standard of zero degrees.
oh yeah.. i knew that lol
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:39 PM
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