Hello all!

I wanted to know how can I break 13s in the 1/4 mile with my 1996 Auto GXE...without using F.I.


so far here are my mods:

Weapon-R Intake
Stone Racing Y-Pipe
Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat
Warpspeed 2.5" B-Pipe
Dynomax 2.5" Muffler
Unorthodox Racing UDP


Any help will be appreciated


thanks


BTW...what does the Apexi SAFC II do?

 

boost or nos.

 

what are you running now?

 

Nos will help. but 13's N/A is going to be hard specially with auto.

 

VORTECH. lolz.

 

3.5 swap or Nitrous

 

Nos since you said that u dont want to go FI
Im going SC and im hoping to run high 13's(im also a 96 auto). Either way its not something that will be done with out spending a pretty penny

 

Talk to Jime

 

Serious weight reduction.

 

I could have done it with a torque converter and a little more weight removal. I gave up hope though, and did a 5spd swap and it was the best mod I have ever done. My car is twice as fast now. IMHO, its not worth it to sink tons of money in the auto because you will never be happy with it, unless you boost it or use N20.

 

thanks for the replies guys


I was thinking about an upgraded ECU and perhaps a VI manifold



also....I was wondering what exactly does an Apexi SAFC-II do? Does it add noticeable gains?


thanks

 

You WILL NOT get there N/A w/o those.

I would rather do a 5spd swap ... better gearing, less drivetrain loss = 13's with the right mods and driving N/A.

 

00vi+JWT/TS ECU , Upgraded TC, weight reduction and 13's are in your reach

 

13s are very achievable on an N/A automatic... it's just that most people have the sense to switch to 5-speed before they get in the 13s. Best mod ever if you're auto. To give you an idea, a stock automatic does 0-60 in 7.7 seconds, while a stock 5-speed does it in 6.6 seconds. Huge difference.

 

Funny how the 00VI has by now officially replaced the Mevi...

13s are very achievable on an N/A automatic... it's just that most people have the sense to switch to 5-speed before they get in the 13s. Best mod ever if you're auto. To give you an idea, a stock automatic does 0-60 in 7.7 seconds, while a stock 5-speed does it in 6.6 seconds. Huge difference.

 

When I was an auto, the MEVI was the best mod I ever did. Auto's don't have the gearing advantage, so the more area under the curve, the better. It was good for around 4 tenths and 3-4 mph if I remember correctly.
For me, the 00VI is not worth the cost and time to switch from the MEVI. The top end is very close on the 00VI and MEVI, so I bet my track times would not improve, even with the additional torque in the lower rpm's. Its not really worth the hassle.

 

I would say, get a stage 2 or 3 valve body recalibration, switch to Cattman headers, advance timing to 17 degree, get some light wheels & slick or buy a 75-100 shots of nitrous.

 

are you talking about ... it's a 4th gen...

IMO the 00VI might help the auto a little more, due to the longer gears and having a litte more grunt in 1stm but even at that if all you want is a 13.999 you won't need the00vi.

The MEVI+ECU is fun though, I find myself taking advantage of it rather frequently. Depending on how much you want to spend, there's always the option of cams ...

 

an S-AFC is an air fuel conrtoller and engine monitor system, a very basic one. It intercepts the MAF signal and makes adjustments to either raise or lower AF ratio. Not something you need now nor would it really needed to break into the 13's with your auto


If you really wanted to run 13's in your auto you would need to add these mods to your current set up

1. slicks and at least a .20 60'
2. JWT ECU and either MEVI or 00VI
3. Weight reduction

Those three things could get you there. And some cold weather

 

And some luck .. .

 

PLEASE STOP CALLING NITROUS NOS!

Thanks...

 

Yes, we all know it is called NAAAWWSS!!1!!

 

I've said the same thing in the past. Personally, I don't see the 00VI blowing out cars with the VI. The MEVI is definitely a item that can be worked with to become faster. At this point, the fastest 3.0 had a MEVI.

 

which is why I havent changed mine even being FI. After seeing Stephen Max's dyno only gaining a few hp and tq below 4000 and the lines overlapping each other after the VI opens is not worth the cost of the 00 VI, new injectors etc I would need. I'd rather spend $50 and do a pulley swap and gain a lot more.

BTW OT are you still going to Maxus? Sucks you were 4-5 hours away from here when you were in NC...

 

Yup. I could have gotten the whole setup from someone local but I had other things on my plate to follow through on like me ECU. I'd rather run this ECU with the MEVI rather than run the 00VI without an ECU. The ECU has just changed the way this car pulls in the best ways possible.

I'm going. I have to get me room in DAL soon. I don't know if I'm going to do the track thing on the 10th but chilling at the showing will be something I'm game for. About NC, I didn't know where I was going until a week before we left. I saw some nice rides down there too. If you guys weren't so far away from Cape Fear, I would have chilled for one night at least.

 

I just bought an MEVI when I could have easily done the 00VI, I can't have CEL's

 

Thing is if you where to get the 00 VI you couldnt use your brothers injectors either...

 

00 VI doesn't result in a CEL though.

 

To tell you the truth, my car has never been better running with that CEL. It compliments the car nicely.

 

yes the permy CEL is a free led that I didnt have to install aftermarket.

 

I would have done it the way StephenMax did by using the 4th gen lower and redrilling it then only using the 00 upper.


As far as CEL's and the 00VI, from what I know the EGR system had not been figured out and caused a CEL.

 

That's what I'm currently doing. Using the 4th gen lower, TB, IACV with an 00 upper. I bought a 5th gen EGR guide tube also. Doing it that way is more labor intensive, but you save a lot of money if you don't mind fabricating things yourself (as the trailblazers have done). Thanks guys!

 

Nismo3112 and I used only the DEK upper IM and redrilled the DE lower IM. To get around the EGR system, we disconnected it altogether and plugged it up, leaving the sensors in place. The ECU gets it's readings from the sensors so no CEL.

 

I am using the EGR system and no CELs. I used both upper and lower 00IM's. I used the 00EGR guide tube so the car runs perfectly.

 

Where'd you plug it... did you just cut the vacuum to the EGR valve? Doesn't the EGT sensor sit in the guide tube going to the manifold - and it hasn't thrown a code even though it's not seeing any flow past it?

 

Yes, cut the vaccum to the valve. We plugged it using a bolt, the location, Nismo3112 can better describe. And we left the sensor dangling in my engine bay, no problem.

 

Hmm.. I thought it was interesting that it didn't throw an EGT sensor code leaving it unplugged to atmosphere that way. But now after looking at the FSM (well for my 98 anyways) it makes sense.

The ECU is looking for 4.5V or less after the engine's warmed up and as long as it's below that it's ok. The voltage goes down with temp increase, and the 4.5v setting corresponds to almost 32 deg F (freezing). So in order to throw a code on a working sensor your under-hood temp would have to get below freezing after warming up the engine, which is not likely! haha.

 

If you want to know how to put a NA 3L Auto in the 13s, copy me, 96sleeper, and Jime.

Look at my mods list. The main mods will be major weight reduction, a good high stall torque converter (over 2800rpm stall), shorter gearing (22" tires), cold weather, and SLICKS. You have to have a 60' of 2.0 or better. It can be done without an ECU upgrade. Look at me, I can do 13s right now if I had good weather. But a nice ECU tune will do wonders and can shave a few crutial tenths.

This winter, I will be deep into the 13s all motor. I am going to do this one last season before I install my turbocharger setup. The only reason I haven't switched to a 5spd is b/c I want to stay auto for boost and 1/4 mile reasons. I am at 14.3 right now in crappy weather. With good weather, I will be 14.0s easy, then add ECU, 13.8 atleast, then add my built tranny and the effects of having a 4.08 final drive and less power loss and the ability to lock up my TC in the top of 3rd gear and I will be even deeper in the 13s. The biggest mod that I will have before this next winter is that I am moving to NC again, which has awesome tracks and awesome track weather.

 

Please guide me to the torque converter

where do they sell this...what does it actually do?

thanks

 

www.edgeracingconverters.com is where I got mine. I had Andre build me one that was still streetable. He succeeded! I support this company 100% b/c of the quality, prices, service and the time I shaved in the 1/4 mile with it.

Search around the internet about what a TC does. www.howstuffworks.com

It basically allows you to launch at 2500 rpm instead of 1800rpm that you are forced to deal with on a stock unit. You can put more power to the ground on the initial launch and REALLY lower your 60 foot time if you have traction.