Need Input on DR's
Originally Posted by JClaw
I would go with lightweight 15s and lower the diameter to shorten gearing.
Not to worry I'll have lightweight wheels, I'm not sure if I'm going to get these.
I weighed them at the store 17.4lbs exactly
EVO 6
Ah I see. Pretty light for 17s. In fact they are 1-2 lbs lighter than the stock sawblades I have on. Unfortunately even then the 15s are faster since the weight is closer to the center. I think someone tried stock wheels and lightweight 17s a while back and was consistantly .15 and 1 mph faster with the 15s. Ok I'm rambling 
They're nice. And 17s are the best size/compromize for acceleration/handling and looks. 18s and 19s are too heavy and bling bling, 16s are kinda useless since they are too small to most people and not as good as 17s (handling) or 15s (acceleration). To me it's either 15s or 17s and I think you made a good choice.
I do think sawblades look good with a 2-inch drop though
I have worn all-season 215/60/15 Yokohamas rated for only 118 mph on stock Sawblades and still managed to pull a 2.12 on them on my first weekend at the track with the 3.5.
I do think sawblades look good with a 2-inch drop though
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
As far as the DR's I hope they will hold, I have no expirience with DR's at all so any input will help.
Jclaw what tires were you using and wheels?
Jclaw what tires were you using and wheels?
First, get rid of the brakes, don't worry about slowing down until you can go fast. You are preventing yourself from the ability to accelerate fast by putting huge brakes on. Big brakes are bling bling unless you autox.
Unless slicks won't fit on a particular vehicle, why would anyone use those over hyped drag radials??????
No sense in spending thousands of dollars on the engine and drivetrain, only to castrate the combination with inferior tires.
If you're going to the drag strip, get some real drag tires. Drag radials are a marketing gimmick. They work a little better than regular radials, but don't hold a candle to real slicks or DOT slicks.
Running (and wearing out) expensive drag radials full time is an exercise in frustration. They wear out fast, don't do well in the rain, are easily cut by road debris, and aren't ideal for the drag strip.
If you're buying a tire just to be run at the track, why not buy a real drag tire? The money is the same, and the slicks work light years better than any drag radial out there.
Money wise, slicks are less expensive in the long run. A set of slicks on an old set of wheels used only for special occasions will last several years. You'd run through several sets of DR's in that time period.
A lot of people fall for those things. The magazines make you think you need them.... but you don't. Their sidewalls are incredibly stiff compared to a set of slicks, so they do NOT absorb shock very well.... and do not work very well at all behind a stick shift. The cars running these tires and going fast are using huge sizes, and are specially set up to work with this type of tire. They are use automatic transmissions, and if they use a power adder, it's a turbo... which comes on gradually. They are also killing power off the line with ignition retards and tight converters.
Get a set of slicks if you are interested in laying down some impressive ET's. Races are won and lost in the first 60ft.
Unless slicks won't fit on a particular vehicle, why would anyone use those over hyped drag radials??????
No sense in spending thousands of dollars on the engine and drivetrain, only to castrate the combination with inferior tires.
If you're going to the drag strip, get some real drag tires. Drag radials are a marketing gimmick. They work a little better than regular radials, but don't hold a candle to real slicks or DOT slicks.
Running (and wearing out) expensive drag radials full time is an exercise in frustration. They wear out fast, don't do well in the rain, are easily cut by road debris, and aren't ideal for the drag strip.
If you're buying a tire just to be run at the track, why not buy a real drag tire? The money is the same, and the slicks work light years better than any drag radial out there.
Money wise, slicks are less expensive in the long run. A set of slicks on an old set of wheels used only for special occasions will last several years. You'd run through several sets of DR's in that time period.
A lot of people fall for those things. The magazines make you think you need them.... but you don't. Their sidewalls are incredibly stiff compared to a set of slicks, so they do NOT absorb shock very well.... and do not work very well at all behind a stick shift. The cars running these tires and going fast are using huge sizes, and are specially set up to work with this type of tire. They are use automatic transmissions, and if they use a power adder, it's a turbo... which comes on gradually. They are also killing power off the line with ignition retards and tight converters.
Get a set of slicks if you are interested in laying down some impressive ET's. Races are won and lost in the first 60ft.
What he said
Someone has a set of slicks for sale locally with about 60% left on them. They are MT's 22"X8"X15" and he wants 250$cnd for both. I want to mount them on two sawblades.
Now I was looking for 23" or 24.5" slicks since I trap at 103-104 mph and finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear around 4500 rpm on my street tires (25.2" tall). I am getting it tuned soon, so would not be surprised to see 105-106 mph and even with a 26" slick I won't be able to finish the 1/4 mile in 3rd gear. I am bumping the rev limiter up to 7100-7200 so I want to finish as late as possible in 4th gear.
I know 22" are perfect for an auto like yours Jime but I am worried about having gearing THAT short on my 5-speed. I mean it's already got a 3.82 final drive and first gear is 3.28.
I dont have as much lowend power as most 3.5 since I don't have VTC and variable intake like normal 2k2s have, and I don't launch it hard (I will set the idle to 3000 rpm for the track and launch right off the idle. Way more consistant that way), but I've got mad top end, so I'm worried about spinning them out of the hole.
I would really rather go with 23 or 24.5 but 250$ is one hell of a deal.
Someone has a set of slicks for sale locally with about 60% left on them. They are MT's 22"X8"X15" and he wants 250$cnd for both. I want to mount them on two sawblades.
Now I was looking for 23" or 24.5" slicks since I trap at 103-104 mph and finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear around 4500 rpm on my street tires (25.2" tall). I am getting it tuned soon, so would not be surprised to see 105-106 mph and even with a 26" slick I won't be able to finish the 1/4 mile in 3rd gear. I am bumping the rev limiter up to 7100-7200 so I want to finish as late as possible in 4th gear.
I know 22" are perfect for an auto like yours Jime but I am worried about having gearing THAT short on my 5-speed. I mean it's already got a 3.82 final drive and first gear is 3.28.
I dont have as much lowend power as most 3.5 since I don't have VTC and variable intake like normal 2k2s have, and I don't launch it hard (I will set the idle to 3000 rpm for the track and launch right off the idle. Way more consistant that way), but I've got mad top end, so I'm worried about spinning them out of the hole.
I would really rather go with 23 or 24.5 but 250$ is one hell of a deal.
I am actually running 24.5's now, there is no perfect setup. However I think 26's are a stretch, I know guys running 9's and 10's that think they are da bomb though.
Check the tread wear before you buy, make sure they are wearing evenly and measure the 4 depth pattern holes to determine how much is gone.
These tires have about 10% wear, new ones measure approx 3/16" tread thickness.
PS I am getting a pair of G-Force T/AŽ Drag Radials next week. The guy I gave my old slicks too is giving me a pair of 225's with only 7 runs on them. He is sponsored by BFG and has 4 sets. I will be mounting them on a pair of Millenia rims so I will be able to compare them to the slicks just for kicks. I may use them for a street legal class.
Check the tread wear before you buy, make sure they are wearing evenly and measure the 4 depth pattern holes to determine how much is gone.
These tires have about 10% wear, new ones measure approx 3/16" tread thickness.
PS I am getting a pair of G-Force T/AŽ Drag Radials next week. The guy I gave my old slicks too is giving me a pair of 225's with only 7 runs on them. He is sponsored by BFG and has 4 sets. I will be mounting them on a pair of Millenia rims so I will be able to compare them to the slicks just for kicks. I may use them for a street legal class.
Originally Posted by Jime
First, get rid of the brakes, don't worry about slowing down until you can go fast. You are preventing yourself from the ability to accelerate fast by putting huge brakes on. Big brakes are bling bling unless you autox.
Unless slicks won't fit on a particular vehicle, why would anyone use those over hyped drag radials??????
No sense in spending thousands of dollars on the engine and drivetrain, only to castrate the combination with inferior tires.
If you're going to the drag strip, get some real drag tires. Drag radials are a marketing gimmick. They work a little better than regular radials, but don't hold a candle to real slicks or DOT slicks.
Running (and wearing out) expensive drag radials full time is an exercise in frustration. They wear out fast, don't do well in the rain, are easily cut by road debris, and aren't ideal for the drag strip.
If you're buying a tire just to be run at the track, why not buy a real drag tire? The money is the same, and the slicks work light years better than any drag radial out there.
Money wise, slicks are less expensive in the long run. A set of slicks on an old set of wheels used only for special occasions will last several years. You'd run through several sets of DR's in that time period.
A lot of people fall for those things. The magazines make you think you need them.... but you don't. Their sidewalls are incredibly stiff compared to a set of slicks, so they do NOT absorb shock very well.... and do not work very well at all behind a stick shift. The cars running these tires and going fast are using huge sizes, and are specially set up to work with this type of tire. They are use automatic transmissions, and if they use a power adder, it's a turbo... which comes on gradually. They are also killing power off the line with ignition retards and tight converters.
Get a set of slicks if you are interested in laying down some impressive ET's. Races are won and lost in the first 60ft.
Unless slicks won't fit on a particular vehicle, why would anyone use those over hyped drag radials??????
No sense in spending thousands of dollars on the engine and drivetrain, only to castrate the combination with inferior tires.
If you're going to the drag strip, get some real drag tires. Drag radials are a marketing gimmick. They work a little better than regular radials, but don't hold a candle to real slicks or DOT slicks.
Running (and wearing out) expensive drag radials full time is an exercise in frustration. They wear out fast, don't do well in the rain, are easily cut by road debris, and aren't ideal for the drag strip.
If you're buying a tire just to be run at the track, why not buy a real drag tire? The money is the same, and the slicks work light years better than any drag radial out there.
Money wise, slicks are less expensive in the long run. A set of slicks on an old set of wheels used only for special occasions will last several years. You'd run through several sets of DR's in that time period.
A lot of people fall for those things. The magazines make you think you need them.... but you don't. Their sidewalls are incredibly stiff compared to a set of slicks, so they do NOT absorb shock very well.... and do not work very well at all behind a stick shift. The cars running these tires and going fast are using huge sizes, and are specially set up to work with this type of tire. They are use automatic transmissions, and if they use a power adder, it's a turbo... which comes on gradually. They are also killing power off the line with ignition retards and tight converters.
Get a set of slicks if you are interested in laying down some impressive ET's. Races are won and lost in the first 60ft.
but I need a setup that will be good for the street.I think this setup will be ok I just never had DR's before and I'm not sure how they will handle on the Street/Track I'm getting them brand new for $150 each. not bad huh what do yALL think?
Originally Posted by JClaw
Now I was looking for 23" or 24.5" slicks since I trap at 103-104 mph and finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear around 4500 rpm on my street tires (25.2" tall). I am getting it tuned soon, so would not be surprised to see 105-106 mph and even with a 26" slick I won't be able to finish the 1/4 mile in 3rd gear. I am bumping the rev limiter up to 7100-7200 so I want to finish as late as possible in 4th gear.
Since I am planning on getting the Crawford z FWD plenum (or have a RWD one modified) and advancing the crap out of the timing, I would not be surprised if my traps were in the high 100's eventually. So I would get 23X8.5X15 M&H slicks and cross the line before 7 grand.
Mardi says he is "very close to 7000 rpm" in 4th gear when he crosses the line at 120-121 mph on 24.5 slicks, so both of us would be in the low 6000 area with those. That is why I would prefer 23-inch slicks. Do the math. 6500-6800 and for the 23", 5800-6100 for the 24.5 I guess.
Mardi says he is "very close to 7000 rpm" in 4th gear when he crosses the line at 120-121 mph on 24.5 slicks, so both of us would be in the low 6000 area with those. That is why I would prefer 23-inch slicks. Do the math. 6500-6800 and for the 23", 5800-6100 for the 24.5 I guess.
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