he ran almost the same time as me and to me having a NA car that is owning in my mind.

And also it wasnt 360whp he was talking flywheel because i said i prob had 270 flywheel so he gave me a flywheel guess from his WHP which he did not tell me

 

Something similar happened to me but the guy wasn't angry. I beat a 12-second foxbody stang on the 60' and he asked me about 17 times to make sure the car was front wheel drive.

 

Not worried about that hehehe

 

Neal is gonna need 28 inch slicks not to break 'em loose at the track. Mr. Wheelspin.

 

 

i am, there a couple guys out there coming pretty close to passing me but oh well.

 

Well of course you're not worried, you have like a 500hp car. I'm quite sure all would have a heck of a time racing you. Are you going to cryo treat your AE tranny? I can't wait to see what she can do. You probably have already taken her to the track and just haven't told anyone yet.

JClaw - what I was saying was that because krismax has a y-pipe and no headers he will see some very significant gains once he gets the stainless headers, add that to slicks, VIM, upgraded clutch, and suspension. I think it might be possible for him to hit 12.7's. I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

 

Slicks and ignition timing advance would be the only priorities if I were him, but he has stated that he prob won't get slicks this year.

 

When are you going to upgrade your ECU and extend your rev limit?

 

When my bank acount goes back into the 4 digits.

I looked at my timeslips though I think the car has a 13.20 in it. I did 13.32 with a 1.761 60 foot and 13.35 with a 1.849 60 foot. Plus I have a bit more power now, just comes down to the weather.

 

I hear you thats all thats keeping me from doing this is cash.

But i still have more free weight reduction to do so ill be doing that.my 30lb reduction from the trunk is still not on.i had everything in the car with my run except pass seat maybe rear seats will come out next time to. I see with my trunk rear seats ,coilovers and T1-s toyos and maybe slicks my car will weigh about 100lbs less my next run. and that doesnt count that my wife can race and weighs 105lbs to my 250lbs so thats 145lbs more right there so with just weight reduction i could be looking at 245lbs less

 

Well it looks like it's gonna be even longer till it happens since I just blew up my 95 transmission Need a tranny...

 

dam that sucks i know how that feels ditch the 95-99 trannys and get a 00-01 .
Its weird i actually got my 01 tranny in montreal. it was $500 and something shipped its alot smoother and they are stronger.

 

So far so good for my tranny, as far as the clutch goes, it's on its way out. (ebay special)

 

My act street disc is the highest clamping clutch ill ever get ,i do not want to go thru trannys . ill prob get small slicks that spin slightly just to release some energy.

 

It's not really the fault of the VQ35. It's the second transmission on the car. The previous owner, instead of rebuilding it, threw in a, already used transmission back in 1998 or 1999, and I threw in GL-5 tranny oil 2k miles ago (it eats at the synchros), I got my GL-4 Synthetic amsoil the very day I blew the tranny (yesterday) on street tires.

I was just at the track to check if grinding out the butterfly valve in the IM made a difference. I only got two runs (14.07 and 13.91 at 103.47) and on my 3rd run I was feeling I could possibly beat my street tires PB (13.68), I had a 2.12 60' and a 8.85 1/8 mile, but I shifted into 2nd instead of 4th. Way to go, dumb@ss.

 

Well I called ALOT of places and the only one that has one is 1200cnd and it's a 2000 non-LSD 5-speed.

 

yes the 00-01 tranny's are way expensive. What's really sad though is even the 95-99 tranny's are almost as bad and they suck.

 

Maybe I can rebuild my 95 tranny as a 00. It's basically the same bellhousing, same striker rod, same code (RS5F50A).

 

I thought about the same thing also but that still requires an 00-01 tranny. So you might as well by one if you're going to do that. The only reason it would seem you would want to keep the 95 bellhouse if swapping parts would be if you cryo treated it. I say either just rebuild your current tranny or get a new/used one. In all reality you might have blown any tranny shifting into 2nd about around 100mph or however fast you're going in 3rd when you attempted to shift to 4th.

 

A little before 100 mph (Edit: More like 95 actually).

I checked with the dealer today and there is actually a big selection of final drive ratios that are direct bolt ons (all come from RS5F50A transmissions) in our 5-speed trannies.

3.65, 3.82 (stock), 3.895, 4.167 and 4.471.

The 1.8 Pulsar actually uses a 4.167 final drive, not 4.47. 4.167 is perfect for me (and the 3.0 guys would benefit from this as well). I have a photocopy of this page from the 1988 Service manual and can comfirm that it uses both the Rs5F50A tranny and 4.167 final drive (with the same, more aggressive 1-2-3 gears from the 2000-2001 Altima tranny).

The downside is that it will rev to 3250 instead of 3000 at 75 mph on the highway, but I can live with that.

 

I would love to get more info on that please.

 

I don't really have more info. All I know is that if they use the same transmission code (RS5F50A), then the internals are interchangeable, so if you want a more aggressive final drive ratio, you could get either 3.89, 4.16 or 4.47 to replace the stock 3.82.

 

I only understand just a bit about gears. But I really don't understand the final drive ratio. How is that figured? Would a 3.89 ratio make a difference from the 3.82? What would you need to accomplish that ratio?

 

The final drive gear (the big one) "multiplies" all the others, so all of the gears are more aggressive as a result. Here is a picture of the interior of a nissan transmission (not a maxima, but it's similar):



I doubt the difference between 3.82 and 3.89 can be felt, but from 3.82 to 4.167 it might be a good diff. I'll tell you if it's significant once I put mine in.

 

You could change tire diameter, that too will change the F/D.

 

thats how i do it and if i want the gearing changed again i change the tires .

My DR's were super worn their diameter is 23.9 new , but prob were worn to 23.7.

when i go slick it will prob be the 24.5 inch M & H slicks

 

I already did that, but my 4th gear is still too damn long. I finish the 1/4 mile at 5500 rpms on 23 inch slicks at 103 mph. If I go any lower I will end up spinning them when I get more power. I am doing it this way because I have to open up my transmission and change the first three gears w/synchros. Changing the final drive is not much longer, otherwise I wouldn't open up a good transmission. Plus, it'll be more fun to drive on the street, and I think I will benefit from more aggressive second and third gears. 1st is quick enough though.

With the 4.167 final drive I would finish around 6000 instead of 5500 at 103 mph, and when I get more power I will still finish in the mid 6000's, where I'm still making plenty of power. That, and the FD + 1.955 and 1.27 2nd and 3rd gears (versus 1.85 and 1.20) will make 0-100 probably a fair bit quicker, even on street tires. The sacrifice is really only a little fuel economy. If I can get another 1 or 2 tenths off with this I'll be happy.