Good day today, did a little more tuning and times just kept dropping. Lots of V8 interest. A/F is somewhere between 12.4 and 12.7 across the board and I ran 17 psi of nitrogen in the slicks and yes it does work, pressure stayed the same all day.




I am now shifting at higher RPM which has made most of the difference, my shifting gizmo did not work out so I am now shifting using a 3 pos switch for 1-2-3 which is a lot more accurate than trying to move the shift lever and its very positive. Shifts are completed in no more than a 100 rpm rise. Just leave it in 1st gear and push the switch for all 3 gears. I also have another switch which returns it to normal for street use.

Dude. Quit getting faster

Wow, sweet times man. No signs of slipping?

No the trans is solid so far the shifts are positive and firm. I am going to do a vide from inside the car showing just how firm they are.

Just think...you're now running NA times nearly as fast as your old juiced times

Awesome time Jim, and nice trap too! Just posted on TMEC... I bet the higher rev limit made most of the difference for you also. I know it helped me out quite a bit...

Are you still using the FWD mani or did you go back to the Z?

wow

Nice times, who said auto's suck?

BTW, isnt 13.2 what you should be aiming for NA?

nice times as usual Jim, 111mph NA is just crazy

Hey Matt I remember seeing your times in the 2k2 auto and thinking how I would be happy to run a mid to high 13 like you before I got mine. Thats wasn't all that long ago.

well you have officially made my times look like complete poop hahaha. Keep doin what your doin and damn if 11's NA are starting to look like something to look forward too. Congrats again Jim

Wow.. Just wow. Maybe I should have held on to my 4.5 gen!

oh my word. i think its about time for me to get off my *** and get busy.


awesome times Jim.

Excellent work Jim! Now I have probably asked you this before, but have you ever run the car with regular street tires and say the stock 15" wheels? Im just trying to get an idea of how much those small and light rim/tire combos are helping. Do you drive the car on the street?

Amazing numbers.

Well, I was thinking I would be able to hang with you later this year when I go back to the track, but you are getting further and further away. Congrats.

If you check my other thread where I ran a 12.9, I did a run on street tires. I believe it was a 13.2 @ 106 with stock tires and wheels.

Yes I drive it on the street, just had an emissions test 2 weeks ago and I drive a minimum of 2 hrs to the closest track.

I think Im just gonna start copy and pasting my reply from the OTHER MANY THREADS of u setting a new record, haha.

so ONCE AGAIN, congratulations and keep pushing the bar. You running THAT FAST N/A is nt only encouragement for other NA guys, but FI guys have to step up the pace! How dare they have an NA come so close/ surpass some of them! hahah

Congrats, Jim - amazing times. The N/A bar just went a notch higher...

Care to share details of your shifter with us other automatic-tranny users?

wow, awesome times. if you can pull off a 1.7 like dandymax you'd be in low 12's.

Was that a *real* test?... lol

I think being 5-spd your power is potentially a bit higher but to catch him you might have to lose quite a few lbs...

Actually I removed the stickies from the doors of both my car and my wife's (she also has a 95) then swapped the VIN's on the dash and tested hers twice.

Isn't that a REAL test?

Haha I figured your car didn't actually see the rollers. I was remembering something about you having a hookup but I have to admit that's creative. Frigging Drive Clean, what a pain.

How much does the car weight now if you don't mind me asking? 2600 + driver?

I know the drawing is pretty ****ty but its quick and easy.

First you sever the two wires going to A and B solenoid.
Connect them to the centre poles of the DPDT switch.
For 1st Gear run one wire from each lower pole back to A and B.
For 2nd Gear run one wire from the B solenoid pole (blue) back to the B solenoid wire going to the trans.
For 3rd Gear the switch stays in centre position and effectively disconnect both wires.

See the chart at the bottom which shows A and B for 1st, B only for 2nd and none or open both for 3rd.

To use this put the shifter in 1st gear and use the switches for 1st, 2nd and 3rd as above.

For normal use put the shifter switch in the centre or off position and the second switch effectively connects A and B back together again.

I did have mine on the console but I'm now putting it on the steering wheel, will take a pic when I have finished.

Very simple and you don't have to worry about hitting neutral or slow shifts etc.

Warning if you put the switch in 1st gear position after you have selected 2nd or 3rd it will go into 1st gear so don't screw up, you are warned.

This is also a great setup for the dyno because you can now take off in 3rd gear and it won't shift down same for 2nd so you can get the full RPM range on the dyno.

Also it requires shutting the car off to switch back and forth from normal to switch shifting.

Good luck.

Haven't hit the scales yet so not sure but probably in that vacinity.

Currently I am running in a Super Street All Motor class for the Sport Compact Division. There are 5 races a year and they are Heads-Up for this class so I need the most I can get. Fastest car currently is running 12.1 so I am gunning for that.

However the rest of the year I run brackets against the V8 guys. So for guys who are really into bracket racing (Jime) and don't want to beat the **** out of their car doing 400 runs a year I have started to work on a setup that will make the car consistent but be a lot easier on it.

I tried it out on Sat with a very primitive setup ie a rubber gas line hose on end under the gas pedal. I had it cut so I got 30% throttle opening. Doing this I was still able to net a 14.8 @ 91 MPH with a 2.07 60' but much easier on the drive train. If I really do need the power I just mash it and the gas line folds and I have WOT. However its not as consistent as I would like so I am now connecting up a solenoid to the throttle that will only allow it to open so far and then I can hit the solenoid if required to open it etc. What I am also thinking of doing is connecting the solenoid to the EU and opening it at a predetermined RPM but detunning the car no timing etc to make it easier on it. I would also let the trans shift at its normal RPM ie 6000 RPM and therefore not be using the raised rev limiter.

Anyway just some food for thought for the bracket racers.

lol. And you called ME a tease once if I recall with the EU...



When are you going to weigh it?

Congrats... This is getting very intersting being N/A...

Any dynos to speak of?

Thanks - that's elegant - you are emulating the TCM's logic control of the transmission with a couple of switches! Gotcha on the Warning - when in manual position, the switch has total control of which gear you're in - that can be dangerous..... An accurate tachometer would be an excellent idea, right?

This could be interesting. Thanks again.

lol wtf u so krazy u so fast

Me want to love your avatar girl long time

You getting into turbo territory now!

any plans on dynoing once you get your car fully tuned, or a nitrous run?

Yeah 111 mph in an N/A auto boggles my mind

alright, i'm doing a 5spd -> auto swap.

Bah it's not the auto that's the key... lol.

Sorry couldn't resist, I love my 5-spd. But consider this: he's trapping 3 mph higher than SR20 with roughly the same power level/mods. Hmmmmm... why could that be I wonder???? lol

I'll take weight for $300 Bob?!!

Getem while their hot.