All opinions welcome, What will it take to get a 4th gen auto in good shape to run mid to high 13's this is my guess

1. 75shot of nitrous
2. remove the passanger and back seat, spare and jack
3. 1 step colder plugs
4. y-pipe
5. alteast a K/N drop-in filter
6. good tires on light weight rims up front
7. drop mod
8. bottle warmer

 

Read my mods in my sig ??? They work for me......

Actually, your list is a good place to start. Use a tank heater, get GOOD tires, preferably DRs, put Mobil1 in the tranny and engine, and get LOTS of practice w/burnouts and launching your car. You may need tractions bars.

The first 60' is critical - the 330' is very important and depends mostly on your driving ability. After the first 1/8 mile, it's just engine power - and steering in a straight line....

 

I'll add the bottle warmer to the list, but mobil1 what is that for. I am guessing peace of mind

 

All that sounds about right.

 

Mobil1 and a tranny cooler keeps your tranny in one piece - and gives you peace of mind......

 

^w/e he said..

slicks with 75shot+ypipe alone should get you in 13's, now if u wanna keep the car from dying. then 2 step colder, drop resistor (A MUST!!!), mobil 1, SLICKS. screw dr's get full slicks. cuz later ur goign to be complaining that ur spinnin the DR's off the line.

 

3.5 swap . its been proven to get you into the 12's with the right tuning

 

Yep. And don't skimp on the tires.

 

yeah but if you take everything from the list above it totals alittle less than 1000.00 bucks and a 3.5 swap is what 700-1000 for just the motor alone, no point in snatching out a good motor wait till is goes bad.

And remember everything listed above can be swaped over if a 3.5 job is done later

 

its all the same. if he does the 3.5swap now the stuff above can be added later just like it could be moved over if done first. it doesnt matter, its all preference. 3.5 swap will always be fast, nitrous is only fast when spraying

 

true, your right I would rather do the swap when my motor dies. plus if funds are tight you can buy a piece here a piece there

 

What are the affects of running colder plugs on a N/A motor.

Cons and Pros and should i go 1 step or 2 steps colder?

 

Two steps colder is totally pointless for that power level , and honestly I don't think you'd need 1 step colder for a 75 shot. You'd be fine on a stock plug imho.

 

are you running nitrous, and if so what plugs. I was thinking 1 step colder in the summer and stock copper plugs for the winter

 

No my car is turbocharged. I use BKR6Es.

 

I don't agree with this. When I used to have nitrous I would run one step colder setup upto 75 shot with 0.036 gap. Then I switched to one step colder and stock gap with 100 shot and blew my maf, filter and intake manifold gasket from the backfire. I would say 2 step is a must with a 0.036 gap.

 

I not sure but I think the backfire is caused by the nitrous ingniting in the intake manifold and I know on high shot of nitrous you have to close the gap on your plugs cause the cyinder pressure increase from the nitrous and can blow out the spark but even if that happened wouldn't that just make you shoot ducks out the exhuast

Now correct me if I am wrong, plus I think he was only trying to say it is a option not a must to run 2 step colder

 

Why take the chance. I would run 2 step colder with high nitrous shots.

 

Nitrous backfires aren't a result of plug selection. Plug selection is a preignition/detonation issue.

 

I agree if it gives you peace of mind, I would do the same if I had a nitrous backfire like that but I do not think it would solve your problem

Oh and let me guess you were running a wet setup when it happened

 

thats what I was thinking just was not 100%

 

And if you want to be safe with a stock ECU - even at 150-shot levels - use copper plugs two steps colder, shave the grounds back to a stub for side-gapping, and use VP Street Blaze 103 (red) or Sunoco GT 104 octane gas (blue).

You should side-gap at .030 w/higher (100+) shot levels, unless you use a voltage booster set to 16 volts (for $50), then you can gap at .035 for better top-end pull.

Been there, learned all that. Once you get the fundamentals in place, you can raise the shot level to whatever you're brave enough to try, and your engine will probably survive........

 

(grey99max)
I like the voltage booster idea, I read a few of your posts when you talked about it I am currently looking for more info about. would you be able to direct me to some links

 

So what if it was wet. I know a lot of people with wet kits running 100 shot setups on maximas.

 

http://www.powerstream.com/dcdc.htm

I'm using the 11-15volt input 90 watt converter. Works good....

 

thanks alots