He's got the EB so he better be pulling timing. Streetz, before you spray, put some race gas in it for god's sake.

 

You guys keep forgetting that he is only spraying in 1st gear upto 3k rpms, to get rid of the lag. After that its off.

 

Ah, but with good race gas, he can spray all the way!

Oh well, that would take some serious tuning and tires to hold the car. Streetz, weren't you having engine problems recently? If so, forget all these suggestions.

 

He doesn't want to or need to. I wonder if his EB has antilag feature? Then he wouldn't need the spray.

 

SonicDust is right guys, i will ONLY be spraying before boost, I am going to have the nitrous hooked up to the meth/water pump boost switch so that as soon as the boost switch detects any boost the nitrous will shut off(which is when the meth also kicks in). With that said, I know I dont need the race gas, since i wont have boost and nitrous at the same time.

Neal: yes it is my stock intake air temp sensor, can the stock sensor be trusted? is it accurate?

Grey99: Yes, i believe i still have the problem with the engine. At the track like after every 4 runs, i have to open the radiator and fill it back up because all the coolant/water goes into the overfill tank, i guess because of too high pressure (bad head gasket). I believe the reason I may have overheated one day was because of my radiator being too thin(bought at some random local place) and couldnt keep up with the heat. Now i just installed a 1" core thick all aluminum radiator i have pics if u would like =).

EDIT: Although I do not need the race gas, i MIGHT consider it when i go to the 1/4 track again, since its a much longer run and now i know my IAT's. but for the 1/8th, the run is so short im not going to bother.

 

Mostly just funnin' ya - but the race gas suggestion is real. You're on the edge of being able to melt exhaust valves if anything goes wrong. I lost one engine by the 1/8 mile. That's why I keep making noise about cut-off ground strap plugs and race gas - preignition and detonation can cut you off at the knees. The BIG boys do it - us short-strokers should pay attention...

Anyway, pics of your radiator - and where you got it -would be good information for me. Thanks. Glad you're still running. What you're doing is exciting.

 

Dis b da rad.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96...spagenameZWDVW

for pics of it installed and comparison pics bet'n the previous radiator and the new one (I saw that already, but you gotta show the org now! )

 

I thought you were running SAFC which is why I assumed no timing control. I didn't know you had EB. EB doesn't have anti lag or two step for whoever asked that question.

I have no idea if the stock IAT sensor is accurate or not. But if it is, those IATs are pretty high.

 

Hey, that looks good - and the price is great, too. Is the quality good enough for hot days at the drag strip?

Thanks...

 

Wow cool. I'll definately be picking up one of those. I thought we were limited pretty much to OE style replacement or the $400 Griffin.

 

exactly. What I love about that radiator, NO SEAMS, all one peice welded. So no more worrying about the metal "hooks" going over the PLASTIC tanks expanding and causing leaks.... no more plastic tanks to crack over time.

Plus, the core is just over an inch thick, so w00h00!!!!

Oh yea, it looks like hawtness too :-D

 

Nice times

You know what I have for sale

 

Streetz, do you have side by side comparo pics of the new radiator vs the old radiator? Mostly interested in the thickness comparison and the fitment of the stock fan shroud.

 

fitment is the same. only thing is u gotta figure out wtf bolt goes into the radiator to hold the fans, because its not the same time of screw. right now my fan is held with zip ties on the top. but ill post sideby side pics in a bit. the new one is 1" thick, and the old one is .5" thick

here are two pics i took.

 

Holy crap I never realized the stock radiator was that thin lol

 

ebay FTW? ..

 

well thats not an OEM radiator, its an OEM replacement. Does any one know the actual core thickness of an OEM (FROM NISSAN) radiator for the Max?

streetzlegend's old rad (replacement) was 0.5" thick. But that is a common thickness for our OEM replacements.

I too have an OEM replacement, but I got it form someone else, and mine is about .75" thick. So I really dont know how thick the core is on an ACTUAL oem rad.

 

i still think urs is 0.5" as well, measure it tomorow. but either way, 1" FTW

 

Is it me or is your 1/4 mile very slow versus the amount of power you are putting down.

Tilley ran low 13s and put down 22x to the wheels! You should easily be in the 12's I don't see why you are not.

 

hmmmm. Question. How much did tilley's car weigh when he ran 13's with 22#whp? What was his 60'? What was the weather condition (temp)? not being sarcastic im actually curious to know these answers.

And also, Aaron is running 13.7's with like 190whp or little less. Its not always about how much power your putting down, these guys are experienced at the track, and also Jime, Aaron have uber weight reduction. My race weight is 3336lbs with driver, and I just started using the slicks and the best iv done with them has been 2.1 60' which is very bad times for having slicks. my race wight is 3336lbs with driver. what are the other guys raceweight?

 

According to the measurements I took of my stock Nissan/Calsonic radiator, it is between 0.9" and 1.0". See for yourself (the angle image isn't so great and makes it look like less, but trust me, it's 0.9" or more):

 

Please search for Tilleys threads Tilleys99 I want to guess is weight was around 3300 with driver.

 

I think I MIGHT be able to pull a high 13 in my car and I have maybe 21x WHP. My buddies modded Z 6MT (Catback, flywheel, lighter wheels) is neck and neck with me and he's a good driver. I think his car might do a 13.6 or so I'd be closer to 13.8-13.9.

 

Only weight reduction I have is no spare, lighter wheels, no heatsheilds. I also have heavy subs.

 

Well go to the track 1st and find out before guesstimating your 1/4. also, have you looked at the 60's these guys have? my 2.1 60' is whats keeping me from being in 12's.

 

I don't know about when he was all motor, but when tilley's car went 11.55 that car had significant weight reduction - he told me he'd removed metal from behind the door panels and speakers even. From what he described to me that was probably a sub 2700lb car.

Power numbers don't tell the whole story.

 

Exactly. My goal is to run 12.9 or quicker in full trim and I dont think im too far off at all. My problem is in the 60', once i start coming out with 1.#'s then hopefully 12's will start showing up. . I just gotta put all the advice you guys give me to use.

 

jeve is running 12.8's with 2.xx 60ft's in full trim, but he's a 5-speed

 

I dont think we should keep comparing with others because there are just to many factors that can affect a car at the track. weather, track condition, driver, weight, traction, wind, elevation, WHP, etc....

Im just happy with me finally getting into the 13's, it takes alot to be able to improve times.

 

not trying to compare just letting you know who else who a turbo is running 12's in full trim so you can look at their setup and timeslips or even pm them for tips

this way you can get a idea of what you will need or what you have to do to meet your goals

 

JeEve has a lot more power than streetzlegend does I think.

 

one i find that most boosted drivers are bad drivers .and two people like neal who were great NA racers tend to be good boosted drivers.

so what does this teach us?

 

That I am a bad driver?

 

yeah he is up around 350hp and running DR's

 

yea, although his 1/8th and 60' is the same as mine (8.6 1/8th 2.1 60'), his trap is alot higher than mine, which shows his putting out more power.

 

I don't think it means you are a bad driver I think you just need more seat time with the car.

Hell, the last time I drove my 96 all motor at the track I put down some pretty good times. 13.4 on slicks 13.8 on street tires. First time I ran my turbo car at the track I ran something like 13.5 with almost double the horsepower...

 

Yea I agree. I need more experience and practice. Iv noted alot of tips all of you have given me and will be using all the info at the track next week. I am going to stick to the 1/8th track for now till I see 1.# 60's. Once im there i'll head over to the 1/4 track and maybe run high 12's

The key is mostly on my burn out. This time ill just tap the nitrous a lil bit to keep them wheels spinning and also to purge the system, i once launched and felt nothing then instant nitrous kicked in, this made me loose a lil bit off time in the 60', (tavarish sell me back my purge damit! lol). After that, i'll brake torque as high as possible, then just take off and hopefully hook. I will be fixing my nitrous shot. because the fuel jet i have in there is actually for like a 55shot so its pretty rich and not really putting down 35HP. I now have a smaller jet. Or im not sure if i should just go to the 50hp shot.

 

fifty!!!!!!!

 

Yeah, FIFTY !