Battery voltage? I'll put that on the list - I think the battery is weak. The PLX has another logging channel, but it's limited to 5 volts maximum. Good idea, though. Mayle there is a way... ?

Each stage of nitrous has the solenoid pair wired together and grounds run directly to the battery ground.

The MSDs only pick a relay - no heavy loads there.

Yup, I need to check the fuel flow, but after I change the Walbro - I've got one ordered now.

Current drain can be considerable when racing. To pull in both pairs of NX solenoids and run both N2O bottle heaters takes about 60 amps, and then there's the rest of the car... I already have the Walbro juiced to the battery but that power is taken from a heavy buss that runs to the trunk. That buss runs both nitrous bottle heaters. If the voltage drops much, the Walbro could slow down a bunch - and lean out the engine.

I've ordered a regulating power supply that takes 11-14 volts and turns it into a constant 15 volts, to at least keep the Walbro running at full blast all the time.

Hummmm.. maybe a heavier alternator is required here. I wonder what's available for my '99. Thanks - it's always useful to talk things out, isn't it?

 

ok so thats means it not the niods, less your fuels niods have a much higher amp draw then the nitrous niod but I highly duobt that


you can use a fuel psi gauge and run it old school thur the hood to confirm if it's your pump and if you do not have a fuel gauge use a oil gauge, they're alot cheaper

ok goodluck but your not new to wires, how to voltage and current drop so I know you'll figure it out

did you change anything recently

 

1. ok so thats means it not the niods, less your fuels niods have a much higher amp draw then the nitrous niod but I highly duobt that

They're about the same current draw....


2. you can use a fuel psi gauge and run it old school thur the hood to confirm if it's your pump and if you do not have a fuel gauge use a oil gauge, they're alot cheaper

Actually, I've had a group of gauges here for months, but never had the time to do a good install. I won't drill holes in my hood, and I'm too cheap to buy the electronic-sender versions. Spending $1,000 for electronic gauges doesn't seem right to me. Besides, I can't watch gauges and race - too much going on.

3. ok goodluck but your not new to wires, how to voltage and current drop so I know you'll figure it out

Here's hoping..

4. did you change anything recently?

"what did you change last?" I converted the nitrous in the trunk to a dual-bottle rack with separate bottle heaters and an adjustable pressure switch. The funky A/F showed up on the last two runs on my first time out with this setup.

I think the problem is excessive current drain on cold days - bottle heaters draw a LOT of amps, after all. Possible solutions: replace the stock 35N battery with a much heavier racing battery, change out the fuel pump and filter for luck, install the constant-voltage supply to run the fuel pump, and - here's the biggie - install a second battery on the passenger side, charging from the main battery, and run two heavy cables to the trunk to power the heaters - one (+) cable and one ground (-) cable. This will isolate the heaters from the rest of the electrical system.

I found a battery in Summitt that looks good, and who needs a windshield washer anyway, so the second battery can go there. I think I'll install a gas generator on my trailer so I can recharge the car between rounds. After all, I'm aiming for a 500WHP engine for next season, so nitrous usage will go up a bunch.

 

Grey, are you running the fuel jet size that nx says is right for the shot or are you running a smaller size?

 

Always the NX-recommended jets, nitrous pressure and fuel pressure.

 

well if you were local I would let you borrow my electrical incabin fuel psi gauge to confirm psi during a nitrous pass

hopefully it's just a clog somewhere

 

I was just thinking if it's not a clog in the nitrous fuel system then you should measure the amount voltage and current at the pump while everything is on since you have everything going to a common ground

your pump maybe fine and all you have to do is get a bigger battery and seperate some of the grounds to different locations

 

I have tested a new voltage booster/regulator for the Walbro. "Juicing" the fuel pump doesn't work if the battery voltage drops to 11 volts, so...

One Powerstream Technology 120 watt regulator. 11-14 volts in, and 15 volts out. Some photos on the garage test, where I connected up a Walbro through a 25-amp rectifier to drop the 15 volts to 13.7 volts, running from a portable power pack and that being charged by a Vector battery charger so I can see how much current the whole package draws from the battery. Turns out the pump draws 5.2 amps while pumping a full stream of water at 13.7 volts on the pump.

This gadget ( PST-SP09 120 Watts) should help fuel flow a bunch....

http://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm

Garage photos:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...8/DSCN0599.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...8/DSCN0597.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...8/DSCN0598.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...8/DSCN0596.jpg

 

good to see you figured it out

your already using something like this for the coils to right

 

Yessir, a smaller power supply keeps the coil voltage at 15 volts regardless of the battery voltage, which worked out well for me. Now I find that the excessive current drain from dual bottle heaters and everything else electrical is dragging down the battery to the point where the fuel pump was getting about 11.5 volts. Even a GSS342 HP pump can't keep up at that voltage - so another regulated power supply for the pump is next.

Of course I missed the obvious solution - a bike racer friend of mine said that if I connected the dual heaters up so that if I was at WOT the heaters would be turned OFF, I wouldn't have the problem, and that the bottles could warm back up on the return road. Duh....

So I'll do both - regulated power supply AND a WOT cutoff for the bottle heaters.

 

intense max i like it

 

did not know you left them on during the run

yeah that should be a cheap fix just turn it off and se what happens

 

I gotta leave them ON all the time - I do have an adjustable pressure switch that turns on the heating pads when the pressure drops 50psi, so when waiting in the 10 staging lanes for a hour, there is some reheating going on when the outside temp is 41* - also when you make a pass, the heaters kick on a few seconds after launch and suck another 40 amps out of the car's battery.

A WOT circuit that cuts off the heaters while making a run will help some, I think. Power drain was so bad this fall that I sometimes had a hard time starting the car after sitting there for half an hour - the battery would go flat on me and didn't want to start the motor.

It's always something.....