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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by t6378tp
did you make a all out pass for a new pb
No I have a couple of bent valves due to a nitrous backfire and trans is slipping in 3rd. I would have given it a try but cold weather made for poor traction, the only run I made with the nitrous it spun right into 2d at the launch.

Going to pull engine and trans this week and replace heads and I have a new trans.
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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Is that a typo in the first post, 1921 passes in 13 events?

Incredible winnings this year Jime, awesome.
Old Oct 20, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #43  
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not many around here see the beauty in a 4 door sedan going fast. saying its not worth the money. To me it makes it that much more worth it. You give us all something to fire back with. Great work man .
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Is that a typo in the first post, 1921 passes in 13 events?

Incredible winnings this year Jime, awesome.
Ya typo I fixed it. My hands still aren't very good after my accident. Not great feeling or movement and I hit a lot of double keys. I could type 70 wpm before so its very frustrating. Just hope I can yank this engine and do what I want without screwing it up. Takes me 3 times as long to do stuff now.

Thanks for the attaboy, sometimes i think I am taking advantage of these kids but when I reflect on my condition I wonder how I do it. The thing they comment on the most is my r/t's which they should be better at, but I get more practice than most of them.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:20 AM
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congrats on all the wins, Jim

bummer to hear about the motor and trans. Is your high stall TC going in the new one? Hey, at least your fans are working now, right?
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:28 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by nalc
congrats on all the wins, Jim

bummer to hear about the motor and trans. Is your high stall TC going in the new one? Hey, at least your fans are working now, right?
Hey Taylor the T/C is going in for sure. 3 Years of hard racing for a trans that was designed for a 150 whp car running at times close to 500 whp is pretty good, I think I got my moneys worth. The valves are my fault for spraying at part throttle trying to lower bottle pressure.

Ya the fans are fine, I also put a switchable resistor in line so they come on at a 180 vs 200 at the track just to keep it cooler.
Old Oct 21, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Jime
Hey Taylor the T/C is going in for sure. 3 Years of hard racing for a trans that was designed for a 150 whp car running at times close to 500 whp is pretty good, I think I got my moneys worth. The valves are my fault for spraying at part throttle trying to lower bottle pressure.

Ya the fans are fine, I also put a switchable resistor in line so they come on at a 180 vs 200 at the track just to keep it cooler.
Awesome accomplishments Jim. If you dont mind me asking, is the auto slipping while you spray or n/a? Is it the actually tranny that is slipping or the torque converter clutch?

I have been wondering as well on how long my auto is going to last with the ~400whp im putting through it.
Old Oct 22, 2009 | 10:51 AM
  #48  
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Hey Jim. Sorry to hear about your bent valves and slipping tranny. I hope you are able to get the car back to 100% soon.

Why are you installing a Transgo shift kit on your new tranny? Do you just want to help firm up your part throttle shifts a tad? I think you have your dropping resistor set to a WOT switch, right?

How many miles did you have on this transmission before it started to slip?

I'm starting to get the track bug now that the weather in NC is starting to cool down. I haven't been on a track since MAXUS 09.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Awesome accomplishments Jim. If you dont mind me asking, is the auto slipping while you spray or n/a? Is it the actually tranny that is slipping or the torque converter clutch?

I have been wondering as well on how long my auto is going to last with the ~400whp im putting through it.
Its slips N/A and spraying. I believe its the tranny because it doesn't slip in 4th and it still brake torques ok. I was lucky yo pick one up that is almost new.

Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Hey Jim. Sorry to hear about your bent valves and slipping tranny. I hope you are able to get the car back to 100% soon.

Why are you installing a Transgo shift kit on your new tranny? Do you just want to help firm up your part throttle shifts a tad? I think you have your dropping resistor set to a WOT switch, right?

How many miles did you have on this transmission before it started to slip?

I'm starting to get the track bug now that the weather in NC is starting to cool down. I haven't been on a track since MAXUS 09.
I was planning on pulling it and checking things out anyway so putting the new heads on is no big deal.

The transgo is just something to try and see how it works, i am not looking for any part throttle stuff. I'm hoping I can increase the line pressure above stock with the kit and maybe increase the life of the trans too.

Not sure on mileage but I do have 3 years of racing and over 700 1/4 mile runs.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Jime
The transgo is just something to try and see how it works, i am not looking for any part throttle stuff. I'm hoping I can increase the line pressure above stock with the kit and maybe increase the life of the trans too.

Not sure on mileage but I do have 3 years of racing and over 700 1/4 mile runs.
That's a pretty good lifespan for the transmission. Most people don't understand how tough this tranny is. My transmission has over 213K miles on it now and it's seen WOT shifts almost every single day since I bought my car with 97K miles on it. I just always make sure the transmission temperature never creeps above 160. And my ATF is always in brand new condition.

I have a Maximum Tuning VB recalibration. I've never bothered unplugging the DR until I did my VQ35 swap and got rid of the TCM. But when I did unplug the DR, my shifts did not change at all. So, that must have meant that my VB mod already gave me full line pressure. I would assume that unplugging DR gives you full line pressure and that the shift kit will not make a difference. What do you think?
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
That's a pretty good lifespan for the transmission. Most people don't understand how tough this tranny is. My transmission has over 213K miles on it now and it's seen WOT shifts almost every single day since I bought my car with 97K miles on it. I just always make sure the transmission temperature never creeps above 160. And my ATF is always in brand new condition.

I have a Maximum Tuning VB recalibration. I've never bothered unplugging the DR until I did my VQ35 swap and got rid of the TCM. But when I did unplug the DR, my shifts did not change at all. So, that must have meant that my VB mod already gave me full line pressure. I would assume that unplugging DR gives you full line pressure and that the shift kit will not make a difference. What do you think?
I don't think there is any difference but what I am going to try and do is raise the pump pressure so full line pressure is higher. The higher pressure is there because reverse pressure is 227 psi and fwd gears is only 178 psi so I am hoping to increase it higher than stock.
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I don't think there is any difference but what I am going to try and do is raise the pump pressure so full line pressure is higher. The higher pressure is there because reverse pressure is 227 psi and fwd gears is only 178 psi so I am hoping to increase it higher than stock.
I am assuming you are going to be using the DR mod in combination with the Transgo kit, is that right?
Old Oct 23, 2009 | 03:10 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
I am assuming you are going to be using the DR mod in combination with the Transgo kit, is that right?

Yup, I don't have a DR anymore or a TCM either. Got the Transgo-HD2 today, just a bunch of springs, ball bearings etc, I am going to experiment on the old trans before I rip the new one apart.
Old Oct 24, 2009 | 11:48 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Jime
Yup, I don't have a DR anymore or a TCM either. Got the Transgo-HD2 today, just a bunch of springs, ball bearings etc, I am going to experiment on the old trans before I rip the new one apart.
Sounds good, Jim is it possible if you can post your impression on the transgo on this thread (or another thread if u dont wanna fill this one with offtopic subject), I seriously wanna try it out and I have been waiting, doing my research to see if its worth it. I have been thinking of putting in a lower mile auto in my car since I too have been abusing mine for years, so I wanna throw in the transgo kit with the new auto.

edit: btw where did you get your kit from, looks like summit is out of stock.

Last edited by streetzlegend; Oct 26, 2009 at 08:28 AM.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 01:05 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I don't think there is any difference but what I am going to try and do is raise the pump pressure so full line pressure is higher. The higher pressure is there because reverse pressure is 227 psi and fwd gears is only 178 psi so I am hoping to increase it higher than stock.
Oh I see. Back when Maximum Tuning did my VB recal, they offered a few stages. I believe I ended up getting a Stage II. That makes me believe it may have been possible for him to increase the pressure even higher. I didn't tell any difference when I unplugged my DR though. I guess the pressure was as high as it was going to get without a more aggressive shift kit. Please let us know if you are able to get faster/harsher shifts. Thanks.
Old Mar 13, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #56  
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I have been in Fl for the past 3 months returning home in April. Picked up my Weld Racing Prolites in Ky on my way down (15x8 and 15x3.5). Have mounted a set of M&H 23x8.5x15's and a set of M/T front runners 22x4.5x15's.

Also got a couple of alcohol solenoids for my nitrous setup as well as bottle pressure controller. I had a problem with my DMH electric cutout which I just received back with a new motor covered under warranty.

Replaced the heads on the engine before I left (I think I had a couple of bent valves from a nitrous backfire) so it is waiting to be reinstalled along with my new trans with the HD Transgo kit. So I should be ready for another season. I plan on scaling back the number of events this year to the ones than have higher payouts. One series I was racing cost $50 for membership, $40 for admission and $50 to race. I won the event and received $100 so that one is out. I won the Street Warz and Pure Street classes in CSCS http://www.cscs.ca/ last year so I have free entry for both this year at $50 a pop.

No plans to do any mods to go faster just concentrating on being consistent and winning races although I may run the nitrous again at the end of the season to see if the alcohol and higher timing can make it go a bit quicker.
Old Mar 13, 2010 | 05:28 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I have been in Fl for the past 3 months returning home in April. Picked up my Weld Racing Prolites in Ky on my way down (15x8 and 15x3.5). Have mounted a set of M&H 23x8.5x15's and a set of M/T front runners 22x4.5x15's.

Also got a couple of alcohol solenoids for my nitrous setup as well as bottle pressure controller. I had a problem with my DMH electric cutout which I just received back with a new motor covered under warranty.

Replaced the heads on the engine before I left (I think I had a couple of bent valves from a nitrous backfire) so it is waiting to be reinstalled along with my new trans with the HD Transgo kit. So I should be ready for another season. I plan on scaling back the number of events this year to the ones than have higher payouts. One series I was racing cost $50 for membership, $40 for admission and $50 to race. I won the event and received $100 so that one is out. I won the Street Warz and Pure Street classes in CSCS http://www.cscs.ca/ last year so I have free entry for both this year at $50 a pop.

No plans to do any mods to go faster just concentrating on being consistent and winning races although I may run the nitrous again at the end of the season to see if the alcohol and higher timing can make it go a bit quicker.



What part of Florida?
Old Mar 13, 2010 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 321VQ35MAX
What part of Florida?
I am near Port Charlotte, checked your location north of Orlando.
Old Mar 13, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #59  
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Did the Maxima survive our terrible American roads for the trip to Florida, or did you just bite the bullet and take a plane?
Old Mar 13, 2010 | 08:50 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by nalc
Did the Maxima survive our terrible American roads for the trip to Florida, or did you just bite the bullet and take a plane?
Brought the G35, the Max I baby.
Old Mar 13, 2010 | 11:55 PM
  #61  
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Jim I just hope you dont try to beat your 10.8, Im going after that record, dont want you making it harder for me to beat that record by running quicker lol.
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 06:23 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Jim I just hope you dont try to beat your 10.8, Im going after that record, dont want you making it harder for me to beat that record by running quicker lol.
Get those 11s first before you go shooting for Jime
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 07:47 AM
  #63  
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Its nice to see a maxima kicking some serious *** out there!!!!!!
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I have been in Fl for the past 3 months returning home in April. Picked up my Weld Racing Prolites in Ky on my way down (15x8 and 15x3.5). Have mounted a set of M&H 23x8.5x15's and a set of M/T front runners 22x4.5x15's.

Also got a couple of alcohol solenoids for my nitrous setup as well as bottle pressure controller. I had a problem with my DMH electric cutout which I just received back with a new motor covered under warranty.

Replaced the heads on the engine before I left (I think I had a couple of bent valves from a nitrous backfire) so it is waiting to be reinstalled along with my new trans with the HD Transgo kit. So I should be ready for another season. I plan on scaling back the number of events this year to the ones than have higher payouts. One series I was racing cost $50 for membership, $40 for admission and $50 to race. I won the event and received $100 so that one is out. I won the Street Warz and Pure Street classes in CSCS http://www.cscs.ca/ last year so I have free entry for both this year at $50 a pop.

No plans to do any mods to go faster just concentrating on being consistent and winning races although I may run the nitrous again at the end of the season to see if the alcohol and higher timing can make it go a bit quicker.
where in FL are you staying ? or did you left already ?
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 06:13 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by NiZMo1o1
where in FL are you staying ? or did you left already ?
Between Pt Charlotte and Arcadia, we are going back in 3 weeks.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:15 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I have been in Fl for the past 3 months returning home in April. Picked up my Weld Racing Prolites in Ky on my way down (15x8 and 15x3.5). Have mounted a set of M&H 23x8.5x15's and a set of M/T front runners 22x4.5x15's.

Also got a couple of alcohol solenoids for my nitrous setup as well as bottle pressure controller. I had a problem with my DMH electric cutout which I just received back with a new motor covered under warranty.

Replaced the heads on the engine before I left (I think I had a couple of bent valves from a nitrous backfire) so it is waiting to be reinstalled along with my new trans with the HD Transgo kit. So I should be ready for another season. I plan on scaling back the number of events this year to the ones than have higher payouts. One series I was racing cost $50 for membership, $40 for admission and $50 to race. I won the event and received $100 so that one is out. I won the Street Warz and Pure Street classes in CSCS http://www.cscs.ca/ last year so I have free entry for both this year at $50 a pop.

No plans to do any mods to go faster just concentrating on being consistent and winning races although I may run the nitrous again at the end of the season to see if the alcohol and higher timing can make it go a bit quicker.
I think I may have asked this in the past. But is there anything you did wrong to cause the backfire?

22" rear skinnies are pretty tiny. I just measured mine for the first time at 24". Have you bothered to weigh them yet with the tires?
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 12:15 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I think I may have asked this in the past. But is there anything you did wrong to cause the backfire?

22" rear skinnies are pretty tiny. I just measured mine for the first time at 24". Have you bothered to weigh them yet with the tires?
I was on my way to the track and was heating the bottle and I don't have a pressure regulator and when I looked down the pressure was up to 2k so I thought I would just give it a few short bursts to lower it and kaboom, never spray at part throttle. (rookie move) I picked up a regulator while here in Fl.

Skinnies are 18 lbs on the new 3.5" Weld rims.
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I was on my way to the track and was heating the bottle and I don't have a pressure regulator and when I looked down the pressure was up to 2k so I thought I would just give it a few short bursts to lower it and kaboom, never spray at part throttle. (rookie move) I picked up a regulator while here in Fl.

Skinnies are 18 lbs on the new 3.5" Weld rims.
That sucks. I once left the bottle heater on during a road trip for about an hour and for some reason, I peaked at the pressure gauge that's mounted on my bottle behind my driver's seat. It read right around 1900 psi I think. I had some little ice packets in my cooler in the passenger seat. I tucked them down inside the blanket and the pressure dropped pretty fast. I didn't try spraying nitrous since I knew I'd go pretty lean at that pressure.

I have a Dynotune bottle heater with their pressure based thermostat. But the bottle has to be open for the thermostat to read the pressure! That's why my heater stayed on. As soon as I got home, I installed the thermostat before the main bottle valve. So now the Tstat works great when the bottle is opened or closed.

I do remember you telling me how you backfired. Did it blow up your filter and MAF? Damage the intake manifold or the hood?

18lbs is not bad. What made you want to get rid of the motorcycle tires? My RX7 16x4/Metzelers setup is 19lbs. I still can't find a single rule (NHRA or IHRA) that says motorcycle tires are prohibited. But it's ultimately up to the tech inspector's decision. I've never had a problem with my skinnies passing tech, but all the tracks around here rarely even have a tech inspection. Have you ever had problems with your previous skinny setup?
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Jime
Between Pt Charlotte and Arcadia, we are going back in 3 weeks.
Ahh bummer , I wish I could meet up with you but im on the other side.

Insprirtion to all Maxima owners Jim !

Good luck on the new season !
Old Mar 20, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
That sucks. I once left the bottle heater on during a road trip for about an hour and for some reason, I peaked at the pressure gauge that's mounted on my bottle behind my driver's seat. It read right around 1900 psi I think. I had some little ice packets in my cooler in the passenger seat. I tucked them down inside the blanket and the pressure dropped pretty fast. I didn't try spraying nitrous since I knew I'd go pretty lean at that pressure.

I have a Dynotune bottle heater with their pressure based thermostat. But the bottle has to be open for the thermostat to read the pressure! That's why my heater stayed on. As soon as I got home, I installed the thermostat before the main bottle valve. So now the Tstat works great when the bottle is opened or closed.

I do remember you telling me how you backfired. Did it blow up your filter and MAF? Damage the intake manifold or the hood?

18lbs is not bad. What made you want to get rid of the motorcycle tires? My RX7 16x4/Metzelers setup is 19lbs. I still can't find a single rule (NHRA or IHRA) that says motorcycle tires are prohibited. But it's ultimately up to the tech inspector's decision. I've never had a problem with my skinnies passing tech, but all the tracks around here rarely even have a tech inspection. Have you ever had problems with your previous skinny setup?
I picked up a dynotune thermostat while I was here so ts just one less think to worry about. I only spray maybe once per year so its always a learning experience.

The backfire just blew the intake piping off no visible damage.

Your wheels must be lighter than mine because they weighed almost 24 lbs with the bike tires. I only got these because it was a super deal for the 4 wheels and they all match. Never had a problem i tech.
Old Mar 22, 2010 | 09:09 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I picked up a dynotune thermostat while I was here so ts just one less think to worry about. I only spray maybe once per year so its always a learning experience.

The backfire just blew the intake piping off no visible damage.

Your wheels must be lighter than mine because they weighed almost 24 lbs with the bike tires. I only got these because it was a super deal for the 4 wheels and they all match. Never had a problem i tech.
Yeah, I'd love a matching set of wheels one day.

I just weighed my skinnies again. I was mistaken. They weigh 22lbs. It's been a while since I bothered weighing them.
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