his times are fake, my times are fake, everyone's times are fake. you caught us all in our lies. excellent detective work and deductive reasoning.

 

Yeah, there is no way in hell you ran 12s. It's just impossible, I don't believe it. It just doesn't add up for your mods.

If your car was lighter I would believe you.

 

Ok ok... lets not go too far here. Legit6MT, I am not agreeing with you. I don't mean "friendly" as in fake or way out of line. Let me explain.

I believe his time is a legit 12.9@106.9. My point was that the conditions were more favorable than he let on in the initial post and/or that KCIR may be one of those "fast tracks." MIR has a reputation for being a fast track for example. A track that commonly has tailwinds, has a slight gradient, or consistent amazing prep would fit this list.

I'm probably wrong with the timing equipment comments. It's kind of doubtful that a track could improperly space or calibrate their equipment and not have it discovered.

krazy6 I know how you feel with BS being called on times... I had a thread around a year ago in these forums that had 5-6 pages of arguing about why my car shouldn't have run what it did and what mods I must have been hiding, as well as my friend's cobalt on the same track day... Good times. That said, I am not nor did I ever call BS on your times.

 

I'm not really saying anyone's times are fake, after all he has the slips to prove it. Your 12.92 with your 60ft makes sense considering what was done to the car.

Im just gonna drop this subject, cuz its not really going anywhere.

 

Maybe his track is one of those fast tracks, and MIR is definitely one of them. With the same mods I ran 13.4 with a 2.1 60ft and at Island Drag way i needed a 1.97 to run a 13.4.

I guess every condition was in his favor for his 12.9 pass.

 

Have you gotten a chance to race any bolt-on 5.5s?

 

I appreciate that.
Good idea.
No, I haven't.

 

Wow. That's a pretty good time for all motor. Imagine if he had da nawssss..

 

I say **** it and hit a 125, and your good for low 12s lol

 

Only thing holding me back from spraying it is the cost of a good clutch.

I love nitrous.

 

Yeah... Spraying that 75 shot was the beginning of the end for my stock clutch. After a track day and a couple of bottles on the street worth of it, my slicks launches at the track (N/A) became more simple. Rev to redline, sidestep clutch, hope it didn't slip too much.

Now with the ceramic 6-puck, I'm afraid of breaking another transmission or axles when launching... I'd rather the clutch be the weak point again

 

Clutch #4 for me. The Spec stage 5 in my sig. Oh... and trans #3. Don't waste money on ebay knock-off clutches. They don't handle the torque they claim to be rated for.

 

aside from the shudder/chatter if i try to launch at too low a rpm or slip the clutch too much, very happy with the clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck. Amazingly grippy, probably dangerously so (for the trans) when power shifting or 6k launching on sticky tires.

 

What flywheel are you running?

 

The clutchmasters lightweight flywheel. Think it's around 11lbs, similar to the fidanza. It's basically one of the worst "street" setups you can run with both a lightweight flywheel and a ceramic puck clutch, but I love it at the track. Hate it in stop and go traffic, especially if it's uphill.

 

Yeah, I bet that's fun. lol

Although, the question is, how much are you gonna spray now that your clutch can hold it?
I vote a minimum of a 150 shot.

 

Honestly not sure if I will spray, not worth breaking anything on my daily. Want to see mid 12s NA and finish off other stuff (coilovers, sound setup) for this to be a fun and quick daily driver.

edit: but if I do, I will be aiming for 100-125 shot for an 11 second time slip.

 

Yeah, I know what you mean.
My car is my daily as well.

It'd be cool if you made some 11 second passes though.

 

Oh it would be quite fun.

At the same time, I'm also inclined to leave my nitrous record at 12.4 and 112 traps. A perfectly tuned and driven N/A 5.5 gen with the right boltons + cams and weight reduction may just be able to beat that... Beating my own I/H/E and 75 shot times NA would rock!

 

I think you can beat that time NA. I think you could do it with bolt ons and weight reduction. Probably don't need the cams.

 

Maybe. I can see being able to remove about 200 lbs from the car without too much trouble, but going past that will start getting difficult. What all did you do for weight reduction?

 

Too much...

Completely gutted interior except dash and driver seat
No bumper supports
No a/c
No windshield washer tank
No rear sway bar
Lightweight wheels
Lawnmower battery

That is the simple list, don't want to list everything because I would be here typing for awhile. lol

You should have seen the pile of maxima stuff I had in my room.

 

When I think gutted interior, i'm thinking chiseling, burning, or grinding at sound deadening material for hours... Did you just remove the carpet, seats, and seat belt equipment?

Removing bumper supports seems a bit risky.. but I guess there is 40-50 lbs to save there.

A/C permanently removed? I would go crazy without it in my daily... hate getting sweaty on the way to school/work because it's 100 degrees out with no AC.

With all those measures in place, you should also remove the power steering belt while you're at the track. Easy 5-10WHP.

 

arent the bumper supports that fiber/plastic material?

thought about that for track but did not think they weighed enough for the hassle on a daily..

was wondering how easy it is to remove the power steering belt?

 

It's not too bad. You do have to remove the main accessory belt first. Unless you have a replacement PS belt you want to install.... then you can just cut it off at the track

 

10-4 u running the KS mod?

 

I have tunable knock sensitivity on the UTEC so don't really need to ground it. With open Y-pipe, i have to turn it WAY down... or else it detects all kinds of false knock from the additional noise.

 

Responses in bold.
I was gonna cut the PS belt at the track if I didn't get my 12.9. lol
If I didn't need to cut it, I wasn't going to.
What is the KS mod?

 

KCIR is far from a quick track. I've been running there for years and it's always been frustrating at how much slower my cars have run compared to others with the same mods running at tracks on the east coast. He'd be much quicker running out at your track, which I assume is Rockingham.

You'll never hear of a factory car running freakish times at KCIR. It's always E-town, Cecil, Rockingham, and other east coast tracks that tend to spit out seriously fast numbers in the fall/winter. KCIR doesn't let us run unless it's 50 and sunny and thanks to the South to North direction of the strip, we're often time dealing with a head/crosswind. My 94 Z28 did consistent 13.8s@101mph at KCIR. It did 13.5s@103mph at Houston Raceway Park (a quick track) with no changes to the car and in much hotter weather.

 

knock sensor, they are supposed to be real sensitive. jime passed along that info, basically, mount a spare in the fenderwell and hook it up at the track. (only to be done when tuned of course)

 

thats good info right there, crazy to think that an increase in decibels can be sensed through that sensor. makes me think what good is the fenderwell mount since I will be running an open Y at the track as well.

more and more I wish I would not have sold my utec.

 

I'm surprised you add Rockingham to that list but not MIR. Interesting to say the least when MIR has the biggest reputation for a fast track (on these forums at least). I've been going to Rockingham for years and it has always been horrible for track prep with a track record of screwing over street tire/FWD guys (even FWD on slicks) by pushing them out of the groove with cones all night. It's definitely a low altitude track, but it's very inconsistent for actually getting fast runs. But you're sure that he would run much faster times there and probably know better than me, so I'll leave you to it.

 

I believe you can ground the knock sensor on the battery and just bypass it all together. You just want to be sure you won't be knocking

 

I wonder if my knock sensor is picking up any false knock.

Is there any way to tell?

 

Not without being able to datalog ECU ignition timing. The only times mine picks up false knock are during wheel hopping and with open Y-pipe.

 

Definitely don't have anything to datalog with. I always run mine with the full exhaust and my car doesn't wheel hop at the track either, so I should be good.

 

be careful....

 

I'm certainly not brave enough to run with spares for skinnies, but may eventually get some since they'll fit almost any vehicle I want for a drag car in the future for the same purpose.

 

I'm still gonna run the knock sensor. If it doesn't pick up any false knock, I shouldn't be losing any power.
When you have no money you have to do shady stuff. lol

My friend shipped up my skinnies from my other car back at home. I now have legit 15x4 wheels with legit tires.

 

Haha I know the feeling. Have done plenty of that. Awesome deal on the skinnies! I've seen those be good for 1-2mph traps on 12-13 second domestics, couldn't be too much different for us. Plus the weight reduction...

I'm a little more stoked to hit the track again after looking back over some timeslips and comparing. I won't clutter your thread with the slips, but I may actually do some weight reduction while I'm at it to see how much I can squeeze out of it with the current setup before it goes under the knife for a few changes and real dyno tuning this spring.

I've been playing with some fun formulas to determine what will do me best for intake length and piping diameter and will be making some changes to my current setup to go along with a SSIM. It will be interesting to see how this all pans out in dyno comparisons.