CV boots split
02-04-2003, 12:53 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 82
Re: CV boots split
[QUOTE]Originally posted by MrSmith
How hard is it to replace the cv axles on the 86 Max. they are slip but not clicking yet. [/QUOTE
The hardest thing for me was getting the axle nut off. It was really on there. I broke a long breakover bar using a cheater pipe on it. But it came off with a shorter, stouter one and I got a free replacement. Torqe it properly, don't just put it on with an impact.
There are three nuts on the bottom in a triangular cluster that turn your lower suspension loose, a nut on the tie rod end with a cotter key, and the bushings on the sway bar to take loose. I got mine out without removing the plastic belly cover and wheel well covers.
It is good to have a tie rod fork to get that apart after you take off the nut.
You unbolt the brake caliper, but leave the hydraulic line attached. Use a bungee or a coathanger to suspend it while you have it loose. Take the disc off and set it aside. You can check the condition of the front wheel bearing with it apart, if there is too much wear, there will be a lot of play, replace it or get another housing at a boneyard with a good one in it. It only takes two bolts to get that off, but they are pretty tough without an impact.
Once you have this stuff apart, you just pull the strut out (still attached at the top in the strut tower, don't remove it entirely) and the axle slips out the back of the bearing housing. The driver's side just pops out with a little encouragement from a prybar. It is held in place by a snap ring and it will just turn loose under enough pressure.
The passenger side is longer, and there is a carrier housing bolted to the engine block that you have to take loose first, but other wise it is the same. It just pops out when pried out with a pry bar.
The replacements just pop into place. You can feel the snap ring engage. If it does not for some reason, and sometimes they do not, it can come out under way and strip off the splines inside your transmission. If this happens get another shaft and do it again. Fish the steel out of the transaxle with a strong magnetic probe.
I have had a cv shaft break off at the snap ring groove, leaving the end in the transaxle. This is a bad thing. I thought the transaxle broke, took it to a shop which replaced the transaxle with a used one and put the broken shaft back in. Of course, the same symptoms happened again, when the shaft came back out. The car won't go and in makes an awful racket.
A Haynes manual is pretty detailed about this procedure. It is a good investment.
How hard is it to replace the cv axles on the 86 Max. they are slip but not clicking yet. [/QUOTE
The hardest thing for me was getting the axle nut off. It was really on there. I broke a long breakover bar using a cheater pipe on it. But it came off with a shorter, stouter one and I got a free replacement. Torqe it properly, don't just put it on with an impact.
There are three nuts on the bottom in a triangular cluster that turn your lower suspension loose, a nut on the tie rod end with a cotter key, and the bushings on the sway bar to take loose. I got mine out without removing the plastic belly cover and wheel well covers.
It is good to have a tie rod fork to get that apart after you take off the nut.
You unbolt the brake caliper, but leave the hydraulic line attached. Use a bungee or a coathanger to suspend it while you have it loose. Take the disc off and set it aside. You can check the condition of the front wheel bearing with it apart, if there is too much wear, there will be a lot of play, replace it or get another housing at a boneyard with a good one in it. It only takes two bolts to get that off, but they are pretty tough without an impact.
Once you have this stuff apart, you just pull the strut out (still attached at the top in the strut tower, don't remove it entirely) and the axle slips out the back of the bearing housing. The driver's side just pops out with a little encouragement from a prybar. It is held in place by a snap ring and it will just turn loose under enough pressure.
The passenger side is longer, and there is a carrier housing bolted to the engine block that you have to take loose first, but other wise it is the same. It just pops out when pried out with a pry bar.
The replacements just pop into place. You can feel the snap ring engage. If it does not for some reason, and sometimes they do not, it can come out under way and strip off the splines inside your transmission. If this happens get another shaft and do it again. Fish the steel out of the transaxle with a strong magnetic probe.
I have had a cv shaft break off at the snap ring groove, leaving the end in the transaxle. This is a bad thing. I thought the transaxle broke, took it to a shop which replaced the transaxle with a used one and put the broken shaft back in. Of course, the same symptoms happened again, when the shaft came back out. The car won't go and in makes an awful racket.
A Haynes manual is pretty detailed about this procedure. It is a good investment.
02-04-2003, 07:21 AM
#3
Re: Re: CV boots split
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dr.disc
Nice write up. However, if you use caution, you don't really need to remove the tie rod end or the strut/hub assembly. you can just remove the three nut holding the ball joint to the controal arm, and working very carefully, pull the hub off the outer end of the shaft. Then, basically pull out on the assembly - you will need to loosen the top three mounting nuts on the strut, but do not remove them...just loosen them enough to permit free movement. Tie the assembly out of the way, and remove the shaft. Not only does this method save a little time in disassembly & reassembly, but it also seriously reduces the chances of needing a front end alignment (although an alignment is still suggested). You also do not need to loosen ot remove the sway bar. That is extra steps that are un-needed that are listed in some repair books.
Also note that it is easier to do with a friend. One of you under the car, to ensure the shaft is inserted into the trans correctly, and the other to push it in. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful. Also, while you've got it apart, it's a good time for a brake job, if needed, as well as repacking or replacing the front wheel bearings, if needed. When I did mine, I replaced my out tie rod ends, and my front struts...my bearings were good.
Just remember, a good manula is indespesible, but they are not bibles. Do not swear by them...use them for a guide, but use common sense, also.
Just my 2 cents.
Originally posted by MrSmith
How hard is it to replace the cv axles on the 86 Max. they are slip but not clicking yet. [/QUOTE
The hardest thing for me was getting the axle nut off. It was really on there. I broke a long breakover bar using a cheater pipe on it. But it came off with a shorter, stouter one and I got a free replacement. Torqe it properly, don't just put it on with an impact.
There are three nuts on the bottom in a triangular cluster that turn your lower suspension loose, a nut on the tie rod end with a cotter key, and the bushings on the sway bar to take loose. I got mine out without removing the plastic belly cover and wheel well covers.
It is good to have a tie rod fork to get that apart after you take off the nut.
You unbolt the brake caliper, but leave the hydraulic line attached. Use a bungee or a coathanger to suspend it while you have it loose. Take the disc off and set it aside. You can check the condition of the front wheel bearing with it apart, if there is too much wear, there will be a lot of play, replace it or get another housing at a boneyard with a good one in it. It only takes two bolts to get that off, but they are pretty tough without an impact.
Once you have this stuff apart, you just pull the strut out (still attached at the top in the strut tower, don't remove it entirely) and the axle slips out the back of the bearing housing. The driver's side just pops out with a little encouragement from a prybar. It is held in place by a snap ring and it will just turn loose under enough pressure.
The passenger side is longer, and there is a carrier housing bolted to the engine block that you have to take loose first, but other wise it is the same. It just pops out when pried out with a pry bar.
The replacements just pop into place. You can feel the snap ring engage. If it does not for some reason, and sometimes they do not, it can come out under way and strip off the splines inside your transmission. If this happens get another shaft and do it again. Fish the steel out of the transaxle with a strong magnetic probe.
I have had a cv shaft break off at the snap ring groove, leaving the end in the transaxle. This is a bad thing. I thought the transaxle broke, took it to a shop which replaced the transaxle with a used one and put the broken shaft back in. Of course, the same symptoms happened again, when the shaft came back out. The car won't go and in makes an awful racket.
A Haynes manual is pretty detailed about this procedure. It is a good investment.
How hard is it to replace the cv axles on the 86 Max. they are slip but not clicking yet. [/QUOTE
The hardest thing for me was getting the axle nut off. It was really on there. I broke a long breakover bar using a cheater pipe on it. But it came off with a shorter, stouter one and I got a free replacement. Torqe it properly, don't just put it on with an impact.
There are three nuts on the bottom in a triangular cluster that turn your lower suspension loose, a nut on the tie rod end with a cotter key, and the bushings on the sway bar to take loose. I got mine out without removing the plastic belly cover and wheel well covers.
It is good to have a tie rod fork to get that apart after you take off the nut.
You unbolt the brake caliper, but leave the hydraulic line attached. Use a bungee or a coathanger to suspend it while you have it loose. Take the disc off and set it aside. You can check the condition of the front wheel bearing with it apart, if there is too much wear, there will be a lot of play, replace it or get another housing at a boneyard with a good one in it. It only takes two bolts to get that off, but they are pretty tough without an impact.
Once you have this stuff apart, you just pull the strut out (still attached at the top in the strut tower, don't remove it entirely) and the axle slips out the back of the bearing housing. The driver's side just pops out with a little encouragement from a prybar. It is held in place by a snap ring and it will just turn loose under enough pressure.
The passenger side is longer, and there is a carrier housing bolted to the engine block that you have to take loose first, but other wise it is the same. It just pops out when pried out with a pry bar.
The replacements just pop into place. You can feel the snap ring engage. If it does not for some reason, and sometimes they do not, it can come out under way and strip off the splines inside your transmission. If this happens get another shaft and do it again. Fish the steel out of the transaxle with a strong magnetic probe.
I have had a cv shaft break off at the snap ring groove, leaving the end in the transaxle. This is a bad thing. I thought the transaxle broke, took it to a shop which replaced the transaxle with a used one and put the broken shaft back in. Of course, the same symptoms happened again, when the shaft came back out. The car won't go and in makes an awful racket.
A Haynes manual is pretty detailed about this procedure. It is a good investment.
Also note that it is easier to do with a friend. One of you under the car, to ensure the shaft is inserted into the trans correctly, and the other to push it in. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful. Also, while you've got it apart, it's a good time for a brake job, if needed, as well as repacking or replacing the front wheel bearings, if needed. When I did mine, I replaced my out tie rod ends, and my front struts...my bearings were good.
Just remember, a good manula is indespesible, but they are not bibles. Do not swear by them...use them for a guide, but use common sense, also.
Just my 2 cents.
02-04-2003, 07:45 AM
#4
Re: Re: Re: CV boots split
Originally posted by MaxWgn
Nice write up. However, if you use caution, you don't really need to remove the tie rod end or the strut/hub assembly. you can just remove the three nut holding the ball joint to the controal arm, and working very carefully, pull the hub off the outer end of the shaft. Then, basically pull out on the assembly - you will need to loosen the top three mounting nuts on the strut, but do not remove them...just loosen them enough to permit free movement. Tie the assembly out of the way, and remove the shaft. Not only does this method save a little time in disassembly & reassembly, but it also seriously reduces the chances of needing a front end alignment (although an alignment is still suggested). You also do not need to loosen ot remove the sway bar. That is extra steps that are un-needed that are listed in some repair books.
Also note that it is easier to do with a friend. One of you under the car, to ensure the shaft is inserted into the trans correctly, and the other to push it in. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful. Also, while you've got it apart, it's a good time for a brake job, if needed, as well as repacking or replacing the front wheel bearings, if needed. When I did mine, I replaced my out tie rod ends, and my front struts...my bearings were good.
Just remember, a good manula is indespesible, but they are not bibles. Do not swear by them...use them for a guide, but use common sense, also.
Just my 2 cents.
Nice write up. However, if you use caution, you don't really need to remove the tie rod end or the strut/hub assembly. you can just remove the three nut holding the ball joint to the controal arm, and working very carefully, pull the hub off the outer end of the shaft. Then, basically pull out on the assembly - you will need to loosen the top three mounting nuts on the strut, but do not remove them...just loosen them enough to permit free movement. Tie the assembly out of the way, and remove the shaft. Not only does this method save a little time in disassembly & reassembly, but it also seriously reduces the chances of needing a front end alignment (although an alignment is still suggested). You also do not need to loosen ot remove the sway bar. That is extra steps that are un-needed that are listed in some repair books.
Also note that it is easier to do with a friend. One of you under the car, to ensure the shaft is inserted into the trans correctly, and the other to push it in. Not absolutely necessary, but helpful. Also, while you've got it apart, it's a good time for a brake job, if needed, as well as repacking or replacing the front wheel bearings, if needed. When I did mine, I replaced my out tie rod ends, and my front struts...my bearings were good.
Just remember, a good manula is indespesible, but they are not bibles. Do not swear by them...use them for a guide, but use common sense, also.
Just my 2 cents.
S
02-05-2003, 06:21 AM
#6
Originally posted by MrSmith
Man that sounds like alot. I dont know if I can do this...................................I guess Ill have to, I aint got no money to be ripped off with.
Man that sounds like alot. I dont know if I can do this...................................I guess Ill have to, I aint got no money to be ripped off with.
But the drive from GA to TX is a long one, just to save some money...It's not really as difficult as it sounds. If you need help or suggestions, just ask.
02-06-2003, 12:15 PM
#8
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 82
Originally posted by NSXBoy
Do any of you recall the size of the axle nut? I need to purchase one before I get started on my passenger side.
Do any of you recall the size of the axle nut? I need to purchase one before I get started on my passenger side.
This is not a two-guy procedure. I do it in an hour or less with hand tools, no air. You need a jack, a jack stand or two or some big wood blocks, maybe a flashlight under some conditions, some hand tools, a cheater pipe, and a big cotter key and a medium one. Besides the shaft, that is.
I've done it seven times, and I've even done it in a parking lot by the parts store. The reason I've done it multiples of times is that I am not on my first Maxima, and the aftermarket shafts often fail in two or three thousand miles. The longest I have gotten one to run is 20K. The factory OEM ones are better, but they are 500 bucks at most dealerships.
I recommend doing it like I explained, because bad cv shafts often will not bend enough to get out otherwise.
But do it any way that floats your boat.
I did not consult a manual, but I recommend it.
The passenger side is a tougher job than the driver's side.
BTW, I have completely disassembled an 85 Maxima. "Completely" is no eggageration, either.
02-07-2003, 11:20 AM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 65
Originally posted by MaxWgn
Too bad you're not closer. I'd offer to do the labor for ya, cheap! But the drive from GA to TX is a long one, just to save some money...
It's not really as difficult as it sounds. If you need help or suggestions, just ask.
Too bad you're not closer. I'd offer to do the labor for ya, cheap!
But the drive from GA to TX is a long one, just to save some money...It's not really as difficult as it sounds. If you need help or suggestions, just ask.
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