Motor Mounts Bad
#1
Motor Mounts Bad
Took my Dads 87 with 63k Miles into the shop for some exhaust and power steering work and they found the motor mounts to be bad. The motor is sagging back toward the exhaust. It was hard to tell if there any extra vibration during my drive to the shop, since the muffler and the power steering pump were both shot and making the car vibrate. Do mounts a typically go bad in these cars? If so, what other symptoms would I get: vibration, clunk when engaging a gear?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Re: Motor Mounts Bad
Originally posted by Edge
Took my Dads 87 with 63k Miles into the shop for some exhaust and power steering work and they found the motor mounts to be bad. The motor is sagging back toward the exhaust. It was hard to tell if there any extra vibration during my drive to the shop, since the muffler and the power steering pump were both shot and making the car vibrate. Do mounts a typically go bad in these cars? If so, what other symptoms would I get: vibration, clunk when engaging a gear?
Thanks
Took my Dads 87 with 63k Miles into the shop for some exhaust and power steering work and they found the motor mounts to be bad. The motor is sagging back toward the exhaust. It was hard to tell if there any extra vibration during my drive to the shop, since the muffler and the power steering pump were both shot and making the car vibrate. Do mounts a typically go bad in these cars? If so, what other symptoms would I get: vibration, clunk when engaging a gear?
Thanks
S
#5
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
You can fix the rear and all other engine mounts for $20. Do a search on "home made motor mounts or urethane engine mounts" and you'll find a link that has all the info.
You can fix the rear and all other engine mounts for $20. Do a search on "home made motor mounts or urethane engine mounts" and you'll find a link that has all the info.
S
#6
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
You can fix the rear and all other engine mounts for $20. Do a search on "home made motor mounts or urethane engine mounts" and you'll find a link that has all the info.
You can fix the rear and all other engine mounts for $20. Do a search on "home made motor mounts or urethane engine mounts" and you'll find a link that has all the info.
I've done the searches, but hadn't seen the method for that pillow-like hydraulic mount. How would you fix that one with poly?
#7
#8
I didn't know our cars had hydraulic mounts . The only one that needs to be bought new is the front engine mount. However the rear engine and both transmission mounts can be filled with the poly urethane mix. Also when I filled my mounts, I couldn't feel the engine at idle . If it wasn't for the exhaust I would have hit the starter when the engine was already idling . The only bad thing is that you should let the mounts cure for at least 1 day. For example if you pulled the mounts friday afternoon, they should be ready to go sunday morning. Also you can try 3M window weld from NAPA, it isn't as strong as poly urethane but it is better than nothing. Plus it cures alot faster and restore the mount to OEM like. Where as the urethane makes the mounts stiffer.
Originally posted by MaxWgn
Nismo,
I've done the searches, but hadn't seen the method for that pillow-like hydraulic mount. How would you fix that one with poly?
Nismo,
I've done the searches, but hadn't seen the method for that pillow-like hydraulic mount. How would you fix that one with poly?
#9
That's what I'm going to try. That front mount is the hydraulic one. If only there was a way to fill that badboy, or just replace it with a solid casting from a mold...
The 3M Window Weld is actually a Urethane product, but you're right, it's not quite as stiff...that would work fine for me. They don't need to be super rigid, and that Urethane should out last the original cr@ppy rubber.
The 3M Window Weld is actually a Urethane product, but you're right, it's not quite as stiff...that would work fine for me. They don't need to be super rigid, and that Urethane should out last the original cr@ppy rubber.
#10
Originally posted by MaxWgn
That's what I'm going to try. That front mount is the hydraulic one. If only there was a way to fill that badboy, or just replace it with a solid casting from a mold...
The 3M Window Weld is actually a Urethane product, but you're right, it's not quite as stiff...that would work fine for me. They don't need to be super rigid, and that Urethane should out last the original cr@ppy rubber.
That's what I'm going to try. That front mount is the hydraulic one. If only there was a way to fill that badboy, or just replace it with a solid casting from a mold...
The 3M Window Weld is actually a Urethane product, but you're right, it's not quite as stiff...that would work fine for me. They don't need to be super rigid, and that Urethane should out last the original cr@ppy rubber.
I just thought of a possible solution for that front mount. However, to test it, I'll need a spare unit. Does anyone have an old one laying around they could donate? If so, and it works, I'll fill my old one, and send it back to you, no charge, in exchange for helping out with this project?
#11
Originally posted by MaxWgn
I just thought of a possible solution for that front mount. However, to test it, I'll need a spare unit. Does anyone have an old one laying around they could donate? If so, and it works, I'll fill my old one, and send it back to you, no charge, in exchange for helping out with this project?
I just thought of a possible solution for that front mount. However, to test it, I'll need a spare unit. Does anyone have an old one laying around they could donate? If so, and it works, I'll fill my old one, and send it back to you, no charge, in exchange for helping out with this project?
S
#12
Originally posted by maximase86
Just to make a quick note...all 5-speed SE's do not have the hydraulic mount, they have a different mount to better handle the torque made from engaging the transmission.
S
Just to make a quick note...all 5-speed SE's do not have the hydraulic mount, they have a different mount to better handle the torque made from engaging the transmission.
S
#13
Z31 type 300ZX cars have motor mounts that will substitute for the Maxima front mount. They seem more durable than the stock front mount of Maximas. Either side will do as long as it is not cracked. The Passenger side mount is less likely to be broken in a Z31 of its two mounts. The rear mount can be reinforced by putting rubber wedges in the openings. Whittle them to shape and push them in. Use rubber wedge type doorstops. Tap them in with a hammer. They'll stay. Fast standing starts break motor mounts. Age, oil, and heat deteriorates them. Almost every junkyard Maxima I have ever seen has broken mounts. I found one with good mounts, and brought home the entire powertrain and front suspension yesterday. It had newly replaced struts, cv shafts, and motor mounts. Then they totalled it and I found it in the boneyard. Recyling has commenced.
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The Frye
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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09-02-2021 11:03 AM