rcy

Hi all. I'm getting a code 33 on my ECU, which is supposed to be a problem with the exhaust gas sensor. However, according to my Haynes manual I'm not supposed to have one - I have an '88. Is it possible the ECU is programed to check for an exhaust gas sensor even if the car doesn't have one - meaning Nissan used the same program in all the ECU's and dumped them in every car?

Thanks.

BTW, the car runs fine.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Hmmm...I wonder if that should really be the O2 sensor...sometimes you can't trust what the Haynes manual says....especially because the some of the procedures in there are just plain wrong. Also next question is...do you have a California model? Those have more emissions gear on them.

S

rcy

Sorry, I should have mentioned that in the first post. It's a Canadian car - a floater in fact. The Haynes manual says the exhaust gas sensor is 85-87 on California and Canadian models. There's supposed to be a light on the dash that comes on every 48000km to remind you to check the sensor, and I definitely don't have the light either.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Umm...I dunno about that. My car isn't a floater, canadian, or california model, but it has a sensor light. Though my car has over 190k on it, the light is disconnected.

S

rcy

Like you said, Haynes could be inaccurate. Oh well, the car runs fine and passed it's latest emmissions test. I should have never looked for codes in the first place..

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well, its good you check for the codes. You can pass emissions and still have something wrong, especially in terms of engine performance and what not.

I checked my factory service manual. The Exhaust gas sensor is indeed your O2 sensor. This is on all models. What you should do is disconnect the sensor and test the resistance. It should be somewhere between 5-6 ohms. It it isn't, then you need to replace it. If it is, you need to check the line from the harness to the ECU. Other than that you have no other codes right? It shouldn't be too hard to replace the sensor, its in a pretty easy to access area.

S

max95q

iTrader: (10)

Ok you know that light that comes on. That light comes on so you can take it to the dealer for them to check it but also just to get some money out of ya because if there isnt anything wrong with the sensor they charged you for the service. See after they check that light the first time they disconnect it so it doesnt come back on. So that is probably why you dont have the light on again.

rcy

All I get is 3 red flashes, 3 green flashes...repeats this forever. If there were other codes, I assume the sequence of flashes would change after the 3 red, 3 green? Something like - 3 red, 3 green(pause) 2 red, 1 green etc etc...until I get back to 3 red, 3 green and the cycle repeats? My exhaust is in poor shape from the headers on back 'cept for the muffler which is relatively new. In fact when it's cold out, I can actually see exhaust leaking from the mesh kind of connector between the headers and the cat. I'll probably just wait till it's really bad, then do the whole pipe/cat and get a new o2 sensor then.

Maybe the rotten egg smell I get after highway driving is related to the bad o2 sensor?

Charles Bisel

Okay, in the owner's manual (for the '88 model) it states that the Check Engine Light only is equipped on California models. Now, this manual may have only been printed for the U.S. market, so it is certainly possible that the '88 Canadian models got it. Also, it seems that this is only accurate for the '88 owners, it looks as though the '85-87 models all received the check engine light. Don't know why they stopped it for the '88's, my guess is that it had something to do with the whole floater ordeal.

Also, the Chilton's manual states that the check engine light comes on automatically every 30K miles in order to remind you to replace the Exhaust Gas Sensor (aka Oxygen Sensor). That doesn't necessarily mean that it is bad, it's just a dumb reminder light. In any case, it is a good idea to replace the O2 sensor every 30K miles to ensure that the air/fuel mixture is correct, otherwise your just going to end up getting poor fuel efficiency and could damage your catalytic converter and probably some other stuff.

Anywhoo, for you '85-'87 owners, the Chilton's book also says something about there being an inspection lamp located on the bottom of the control unit which is located in the passenger compartment on the driver's side kick panel, next to the clutch or brake pedal. If the O2 sensor is operating correctly, the inspection lamp will go on and off more than 5 times in 10 seconds. You have to first start the car up and let it warm up and then have it idle at 2K RPM. As for the '88 owners like myself, it doesn't mention that this inspection light exists for our cars, and like I said, the owner's manual also says that non-CA owners don't have the check engine light.

Also, there should be a relay with a button next to the fuse panel that you can press to reset the check engine light. That's for '85 and '86 models, the one for the '87 is located on the passenger side kick panel. Like I said, it doesn't look as though the '88 had the check engine light, the inspection lamp, or the relay. Also, it says that you have to disconnect the warning lamp harness once the car reaches 90K miles, I guess it doesn't turn off or something?

-C-

Charles Bisel

Yeah, that's probably why you are getting the rotten egg smell, your catalytic converter is going bad because your engine is running rich because your O2 sensor is bad. If that's the code that the ECU is spitting out, then your O2 sensor is bad. You can try and check it with that inspection lamp method I described, you may want to look at the Haynes manual for more details, but honestly I probably wouldn't waste the time because all indications are that your O2 sensor is toast.

-C-

rcy

Mine's an '88 so I don't think I have the inspection lamp. I definitely don't have any warning light on the dash (the one that's supposed to come on every 48000km). Hmmm...maybe I'll just replace the 02 sensor now. When I eventually replace the pipe/cat I'll just transfer it over (unless they're cheap, in which case I'll just get another new one). Can any of you guys with the FSM tell me exactly where the o2 sensor is? The Haynes doesn't really have a good picture of it.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Its right below where the front manifold and crossover pipe join, very close to the radiator. I think right after the pipe that attaches to the AIV valve. As for the inspection lamp, its right next to the Cruise Cont and Cruise lights on the idiot light bar. It says SENSOR. Infact it would be staring the passenger in the front passenger seat in the face.

S

rcy

OK...have you (or anyone else) ever replaced this thing yourself? I see it, and I have a new one to install (it's a Bosch, I could have got an NGK - anyone out there prefer one over the other?). It's easy to get in the general area of the sensor, but one would need the world's skinniest 23 (or maybe 24 or 25)mm open end wrench in the world. An adjustable wrench won't fit, a socket won't work (well maybe a deep socket but I'd have to cut the wires so OK for removal but not for installing the new one), so I'm left with an open end wrench, but I've never seen one narrow enough at the open end. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions on how I could get this thing off and on?

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well quite honestly, either one will work. Despite the fact I don't like bosch spark plugs...they are the ones that really master the fuel injection (if you guys are familiar with FI systems like K-Jetronic, etc). So either will work just fine. As for removing the old O2 sensor, since it's probably gone, its probably safe to say cut the wires and use the deep socket. Though that leaves the trouble of getting it back in. Also it probably be easiest to access it from under the car, so you will have to remove the splash pans.

S

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

There are O2 sensor sockets available, with a cut out along the length of the socket, for the wires. I, however, just used a tubing wrench, like a box wrench, with a small notch cut out of it...

rcy

Thanks for that valuable piece of information. Having the right tool makes a big difference. The 02 socket was $22 at Canadian Tire. Talk about robbery. Anyhow, it came out fairly easily (needed a cheater bar for more torque on the ratchet) and the new one popped right in. Fired it up, cleared the error codes from the ECU, drove for about 10 minutes, and then checked the ECU for error codes. Woohoo!!! 5 red flashes, 5 green flashes - no error codes - everything's 5 x 5!

Thanks to everyone for your help on this one.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

No prob, is she running real smooth too?

S

rcy

It could all be in my head, but I think the car is running smoother. I had bumped up the idle speed up a long time ago to almost 1000rpm, because I found the idle a bit rough (this was after new plugs, cap, rotor etc). So today, after installing the new o2 sensor, I backed the speed off a bit and it runs smoother than I remember. Speaking of idle, the label inside the hood says 700rpm - is this in gear or in park/neutral?

By the way, that rotten egg smell I used to get after highway driving is GONE. I guess without the 02 sensor, the car was running too rich....

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

I would assume that is what its suppose to be in gear, with it being slightly higher in park or neutral.

S