86Wagon

I just had the struts replaced in September, and now I find
out that one of the rear struts is leaking and needs to be
replaced!

Course Monroe will warranty the strut, but I have to pay for
labor to have it installed again!

At least the shop is going to go to bat for me and try to
get Monroe to pay for at least part of the labor.

If Monroe doesn't (they only warrant labor for 90 days), I
might just tell the shop to go with KYBs instead.

I know I'd be much happier with KYBs, I was just trying to
save some money with this car and went with the Monroes...

I also found out that I need one new front axle due to a
bad CVC joint... plus one of the rear hubs needs replacing...

When it rains it pours!

Oh well...

Just wanted to rant a little...

Scott

Charles Bisel

Yeah, I went with the KYB's on my car and it handles like a champ and rides pretty well too. I actually got the KYB's cheaper than some shops were going to charge me to put Monros or Gabriels on because I went to a local garage instead of one of the big chains like Midas, Pep Boys, etc..

I wouldn't recommend anything less for this car since it is a performance oriented car. Monros may be good enough for a Ford Taurus, but not a Nissan Maxima. When have money to spare, get rid of those Monros and get yourself some KYB's.

-C-

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

I know the feeling. I put Gabriels on my 87 wagon, and the fronts are already shot to hell. I installed my own struts, and front half-shafts, though. If you have the space to work, and the tools, the procedure is actaully quite easy to do yourself. As for the rear hub, it is a simple brake rotor/hub assembly. It would probably be worthwhile to replace the bearings, as well, while you're at it. Again, the procedure isn't difficult, and if you've got the space and the tools, you should be able to actually do the entire thing - CV shafts, rear hub, etc...in a single weekend...if you start early enough, a single day. When I did my rear struts, I was able to pull, clean, install the the new carts, and reinstall the rear struts on both sides in under two hours. Not too bad, considering I didn't have air tools, and had never done them before, and had the krappy spring compressors.

if you decide you want to do it yourself, let me know. I can give ya some pointers...

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

I'm going to be getting Tokico's myself....but they aren't the electronic adjust ones, they are the Blues. Carparts.com still has them listed.

S

86Wagon

Normally I do all my own work for just such an emergency...
but I was a little strap for time and figured "It would be
done and over with...".

I wanted to put KYBs on it from the start (I run KYB shocks
on my 74 Nova and my 95 Silverado), but I was trying to save
a little money... at his "savings" I spent way more than the
extra cost of the KYBs.

I think since they have to be replaced anyway, I'm going with
the KYBs... I don't want to have to go through this a third
time even if I do it myself.

Thanks!
Scott

86Wagon

What kind of pointer can ya give?

Looks like the toughest part is getting the hub pulled off
the front axle and pressed on the new axle.

Thanks!
Scott

max95q

iTrader: (10)

Oh hes got mad info on replacing just about the whole front suspension. I think hes restored Quite abit of stuff up there.

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, and yes, I do. The only part that I haven't completed yet is the part that's fighting me now - the rack & pinion. All bushings, the struts, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, and half shafts have been replaced. I have not repacked my front wheel bearings yet, as I want ot make sure I have access to a press to reinstall the front hub with.

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

The process of breaking the front "hub" from the CV shaft is as follows:

Release the outer tie-rod end from the spindle, and remove the three nuts holding the ball-joint plate to the control arm. Then, remove the spindle nut, and washer. you should, at this time, be able to simply pull the front hub / strut assembly from the shaft. If not, tap the shaft lightly with a brass of wooden mallet to free the splines. move them out of the way. if the shaft is on the left (drivers) side, simply pull hard to remove the shaft (there is a metal c-clip type ring holding the shaft in the tranny, and this will require a little muscle to remove!) If the shaft is on the right side (pass.), you will need to get under the car, and remove the three bolts holding the shafts carrier bearing to the mount. Then, "grip it and rip it" - ie, pull hard to remove the old shaft. While you have the shaft out, remove the shaft outlet tranny seal and replace it. When I did mine, the seals only ran about $3 ea at autozone...they may have gone up since then, however.

When installing the new shafts, due to the same ring that makes them hard to come out, insertion will be tough as well. Since these are the new units, you will want to be carefull not to stress the CV joints too much, so try and push primarily on the shaft itself, just inside the outer CV boot...it you run into the same resistance I did, Ithen you'll want to turn the spindle nut back onto the shaft a couple of threats - do not expose treads on the other side of the nut...leave it loose, to protect the shaft. Then, take a heavy mallet, and tap as lightly as you can on the shaft, while holding it as straight as possible, to reduce stress and impact shock on the new CV joint. The new pass side carrier bearing may prove to be a bit stubborn, as well...just drive it in enough to get the bolts to bit into the threads, and then tighten the bolts to finish pushing the shaft into the trans.

I hope this helps you out...good luck if you choose to do it yourself.

BTW, although I have done quite a bit of general work on all of my past cars, this was the first FWD car I've ever owned or driven extensively. I was on totally new ground when I did all my work on it. Not only has it been fun for me, it's been a learning experience...

also, with all the blood, sweat and tears that car has drained from me during my front end, strut, and brake rebuilds, I'm not about to give it up...I feel the car is my Blood, Sweat, Tears, ATF, oil, and brake fluid brother, and it'd be like getting rid fo a family member...

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Did you also do a write up on how to replace all the sway bar bushings, ball joints etc? I'm getting the nice little thunk noise on hard acceleration, or stopping...though not all the time. It sound similar to when your tie rod ends are wearing down or something like.

S

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Ball-joints, tie-rod ends and sway bar bushings are actually quite esay...the sway bar bushings, however, will need to be done with the car on ramps, not on stands...as it needs to be installed with the suspension loaded...

I'll write them up, and post them hopefully in a little bit...

I always doo all this fun stuff from work, and i'm leaving today at 5pm, CST, and won't be back until Monday...

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Lol, we need to get you a computer and an internet connection for christmas!

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

I have a comp at home...albiet an old p233...and i can only afford dial up service...it sucks trying to support a family of 5 on only $8.60 / hour...

And btw, I am the senior technician at a local phone company, in their ISP dept.