maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well, today me and a few of my nwmaxima buddies went to the dyno
place in Renton. (iansw, DJ-EBam, and Schuss). Ian and I did runs. I
did about 6 runs all together. Was only able to print off 2. So I
printed my best and worst "good" runs. Take a look.



Now the only performance mods on my engine included a 92 octane fuel
(which I use all the time) cone filter, 2.25" exhuast from the
catback, and 3rd gen 5-speed. That was the setup on my 1st run. The
after that I started playing with timing. First I though I had
advanced the timing, when in reality retarded it a little. 3rd run I
advanced it a bit. 4th run I advance a little more, and right before
the 5th run, I ****ing snapped head off the bolt to hold the
distributor down! I was swearing a storm. Came up with a creative
fix until I can get that fix......zip ties....yup, totally ghetto,
but it does the job of preventing the distributor from hopping or
turning......a bit. (it didn't work so well on my 6th run which
totally screwed up my numbers) :P

All my runs were with a 3rd gear pull from 2500rpm to 6000rpm.

My first run was the best. My engine was just was cool, but still in
normal range. From this, my car yielded 135.4 fwhp, and 168.3 fwtq.
WERD! If you calculate a 15% power loss through the 5-speed
powertrain), I have 159.3hp, and 198.0 tq at the fly. That kicked
***! This definately proves that a 5-speed does much better than a
auto (and I'm not trying to rag on you auto's, you guys got the best
platform for boost compared to us 5-speeds). Nismo87SE's best run I
believe was 123.1fwhp and 153.6fwtq with CAI and a few other mods
(Ari you car to comment on that? I forgot exactly what you had
then).

My 2nd and 3rd runs averaged in the 130-133fwhp and 160-166fwtq
range. 4th run was about 129fwhp and 159fwtq. My 5th runs is when
hell broke loose from my ******* move of breaking the bolt head.
This yield 127.2fwhp and 156.0fwtq. This was my worst good run on
the dyno. This yield about 150hp and 183.5ftq at the crank.

My 6th and last run went to hell in a handbasket. I didn't tighten
the zip tie on one side of the distributor down good enough and my
timing went way retarded. I believe I got 116fwhp, and about 142fwtq
and I stop the motor at 5800 because I started hearing faint
pinging. The engine was really laggy. I decided to call it quits so
I didn't detonate the **** out of my motor.

What's funny is all of us there decided on a bet to see what my
numbers are. We all put a dollar in. The deal was we all had to
choose a fwhp of any size. If that person hit that number, that
person wins the bet. EB bet at 126fwhp, brian guess 134fwhp, and ian
bet 141fwhp, but decided to be a smart *** and changed it to 90fwhp
(lol there is a running joke on how slow my car is on NWM, even I'm
on it! Though its really not that slow! ) Well, my worst run hit
dead on my prediction, so I got $4 bucks! werd!

Either way, I know I have a little bit of work to do. Stock I should
be running 152hp, and 167ft. lbs. torque. So with my current mods,
I've gain 7hp, and 31ft lbs. torque. My torque is really respectable
at the crank, it's not far off from stock 4th gens and auto 5th gens
(they are about 205 tq for 4th's,at the crank). Some of the next
mods I will probably do include UDP, 240sx TB, ported intake
manifold and heads, lighten flywheel, etc. Eventually turbo. I got a
good platform to work with that's for sure.

S

Nismo87SE

Your last run on the sheet is pretty much the same as mine was, except that you make 4whp/3wtq more than I did . My mods at the time was only a custom CAI + timing/MAF tweak. Man our cars do make alot of torque though. Your 1st pull pretty much has as much torque as the VQ does! Also for future reference I found that you have to unplug the Idle up soleniod and rev the engine 3 times over 3000rpm to lock in base timing. I believe the best timing setting would be around 23-24*BTDC.

Next recalibrate your MAF by using this procedure (if the link doesn't work just cut and paste it). I found that after I installed my cone filter the ECU was reading that the compensating mixture was more than the 5% rich/lean window. That tweak gave me a few extra hp on the dyno too.

You should see some nice results from a CAI, UDP and 60mm TB. With bolt ons + cams/headwork your car should dyno in the 155-170whp range depending on the grind of cams you go with. You should really take your car to the drag strip, the car should be able to run low 16s with the amount of power you make. BE sure to post the dyno numbers in the DYNO forum so others can know how us 2nd gens put it down .

max95q

iTrader: (10)

I already copied the link when he first posted it over there to show what we have

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Since I have the different ECU (I only have normal and diagnostics mode), I'm going to have to figure out how to recalibrate the MAF sensor. Either way, I am going to try to get a hold of a TB. Though I've heard the newer pathfinders have 70mm TB...just you would have to adapt it. I most likely will stay with the KA24DE TB though I'm debating wether to use the 240sx one or the stanza one. I also plan on building a CAI, but instead of doing it like yours, I plan to pull it directly off the TB. It will require rerouting some vacuum lines and stuff for the AIV, but I believe there is more power potential that way considering the intake air wouldn't have to zig-zag like the stock setup does. I will probably try to get a vacuum chamber from a 4th gen...though it probably won't be neccessary. Also when I do get my distributor fixed, I will be asking to have the timing set to 24* BTDC. I will definately try to get my car on a drag strip. Need to baseline my quarter mile for sure. Like you said I'm aiming low 16's, but I'm optimistic and thing I might be able to hit high 15's if I do it right.

Also for N/A applications, what kind of cam grind do you suggest I go with if I do cams? Most likely if I do cams, I will probably go ahead and do a top end rebuild, port/polish the heads and port polish the intake manifold runners. Also thinking about maybe just getting a manifold from Engloid if he's still doing em.

S

Nismo87SE

Since you are 5spd I'd say go with a 270* cam. I believe ISKY offers a 262, 272, 282 grinds. For 5spds I say go with a 272 grind since you can keep the engine in the power band much better. The auto's should go with a 262 cam for a nice wide powerband. Also do get new valve springs and retainers, they should allow you to make more power up top since you won't have valve float.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Now one thing I do notice about the car....the big power drop off...other than VI, is there anything else to cut the big time power loss in the mid rpm range? I know VQ's have this same issue after 5k rpm, but looking at mine, my power seems to fall off much sooner than I expected. I know cam's would help, but is there anything else?

S

max95q

iTrader: (10)

What was his name in the 300zx forums. His special vg30e intake plenum whats his name Euguene. I forgot what its called. Basically its a hollowed out intake plenum for the vg30e. Im sure youd see some upper rpm range hp gotten from that. I hear nothing but good things about that intake plenum.

jayfresh

nice run kid...I never got mine Dyno-ed . I don't know if it just me, but, do you think seeing that dyno is not that impressive? Like you expect to see more from a V6 3.0L ? See sometimes I'm not impressed with my performance. Like the tranny isn't all that, the power should be more. I don't know it's my 2 cents. Peace.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well, I was figuring I wasn't going to put giant numbers for HP. I was rather impressed by the torque numbers though. Those are also the important numbers. What I like is my car produces 31ft. lbs. torque more at the crank than stock. I am in 4th gen territory with my torque level. Though I want bigger numbers of course, I'm happy with how my car is doing, considering its 17 years old, with 193k miles on it. It says a lot about our cars.

S

Charles Bisel

Yeah, those numbers are dead on for what our cars should be doing, probably even better. Even though it is a 3.0L V6, it's only a single overhead cam and is using technology developed 20 years ago, so you can't expect it to perform like a 3.0L V6 made today. Granted, those numbers might not be impressive by today's standards, but when the car was made it was one of the fastest V6's on the planet just as today's Maxima has one of the most powerful V6's in the world.

-C-