blackmaxima88

I'm willing to make a bet with everyone that I have the only 88 Maxima SE that is posessed.

used to be, I had a problem with the connector coming out of the alternator by itself. fixed that.

then a few weeks ago I had a rotor that kept backing the screw out and coming off the distributor shaft. replaced the timing belt, never happened again.

but here's my favorite, and so far this has happened twice: the tensioner pulley for the compressor belt somehow manages to loosen itself, therefore putting more slack on the belt. it's not the bolt in the middle of the pulley, it's the long one on top used to raise/lower the tensioner pulley, loosening ot tightening the belt. I'm not sure how it happens, because you need to turn that 10mm nut on top to loosen/tighten the belt. I guess somehow it manages to rotate itself, because when I heard squealing last night and the lights went dim, I checked the belts again, and the pulley managed to drop about 1/2"-3/4", which is enough for the compressor to barely even spin.

I can't seem to figure out HOW this happens. the first time I just assumed it was a weird freaky occurrence.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and I'm looking to fix it before it comes more of an annoyance. with the compressor belt slipping, the alternator doesn't turn, causing the little red light on the dashboard to glow and the battery not receive a charge.

All the drivebelts are new. Any ideas?

Dan
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pkfinn

The stud that the tensioner pulley mounts on is moved up and down by the long 10mm bolt, which is held down against the top of the bracket by belt tension pushing the pulley down. When the nut on the pulley stud is tightened, the stud assembly is clamped tight against the long slotted bracket it moves in. If you don't have the proper spacer washers in place on either side of the pulley, it won't clamp properly when you tighten the nut. There is also a stamped steel guard under the nut.

The proper order for putting the stack on the stud is: 1. large washer (fits over shouldered stud and slides all the way down against bracket) 2. pulley (with bearing retaining snap ring facing out) 3. smaller washer (fits over threaded part of stud) 4. sheet metal guard 5. nut. If it's all stacked on correctly, when you tighten the nut securely, there should be no way the pulley can move.

Hope this helps.

blackmaxima88

that's not the problem...what happens is the long 10mm bolt seems to loosen itself!

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

right, but what he's saying is that, if the actual shaft bolt is tightened properly, the pulley shouldn't move at all, even if the long "adjusting" bolt loosens...the pulley has a bearing in the center, so as long as the spacers are placed right, as he said, you should be able to tighten it down real good, and the pulley will still spin freely...then, if you wanted, you could even remove the bolt you are referring to.

blackmaxima88

ahh I see.

it hasn't done this in a few days now though...so maybe it was a twice-and-done problem. the center bolt is nice and tight, and the bearing seems fine. I checked out all my pulleys when I removed them to do the timing belt.