whats the stock power?
#1
whats the stock power?
i was thinkin...i cant ever rember but how much horse power does a seccond gen crank out when its all stock?
i mean origonally not after the wear of almost 20 years i'm talkin how much when itwas new/extremely good shape (like my engine)
i mean origonally not after the wear of almost 20 years i'm talkin how much when itwas new/extremely good shape (like my engine)
#3
woo hoo more than i expected....my engines aparently been rebulit because its unusually clean and the underside of the tranny is reallly grimy...now lets see....cold air intake, turbo manifold, turbo ecu and 300ZX turbine should get to atleast 200 and then if i felt like it (probally wont) exhause will be 215...i'm thinking at least...
and i assume by 168-174 tq you mean foot Lbs.
and i assume by 168-174 tq you mean foot Lbs.
#4
It's not that easy...
I don't think you grasp what it takes to put a turbo on a non turbo car. There is the matter of the compression ratio. You either have to swap in some pistons from a Z31 turbo or throw on an intercooler. If you don't do either of these then you won't be able to run very much boost, less than 5 psi. Also, the turbo manifold won't bolt right up, it'll get in the way of the starter. Also, how do you plan on cooling the turbo. There's plenty more issues that I won't go into right now.
#5
When I say tq, I do mean ft. lbs. Quite honestly if your going go boost, you need to really think about it. Sure you can slap on a turbo and be boosted, but I guarantee your motor will not last long. If you want to do this, you should really consider talking to avalon42 or KALSC. Both of them have seriously researched this. In my honest opinion, if your going to turbo, you should find a VG30ET and build it up, or get a VG33E, build up the motor for turbo and turbo that. Either way, it's not as easy as you say....trust me, it isn't.
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#6
i know its not going to be easy....thats why i'm thinkin if i do this to get an extra engine to do it to and then when its all ready swap it out...
this way i'll still have something to drive still...it'll be a hell of alot easier to work on...just replacing the A/C compressor was a pain in the ***....i'm also trying to figure out if its worth it...
what else could i do to get over 200Hp?
this way i'll still have something to drive still...it'll be a hell of alot easier to work on...just replacing the A/C compressor was a pain in the ***....i'm also trying to figure out if its worth it...
what else could i do to get over 200Hp?
#7
Hmmmm...
Originally posted by Niku-Sama
i know its not going to be easy....thats why i'm thinkin if i do this to get an extra engine to do it to and then when its all ready swap it out...
this way i'll still have something to drive still...it'll be a hell of alot easier to work on...just replacing the A/C compressor was a pain in the ***....i'm also trying to figure out if its worth it...
what else could i do to get over 200Hp?
i know its not going to be easy....thats why i'm thinkin if i do this to get an extra engine to do it to and then when its all ready swap it out...
this way i'll still have something to drive still...it'll be a hell of alot easier to work on...just replacing the A/C compressor was a pain in the ***....i'm also trying to figure out if its worth it...
what else could i do to get over 200Hp?
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
No, seriously, if you want the turbo, go at it! But listen to these guys, they have been there before and can talk you through it. Remember, we're all here to help each other. If you get discouraged by the advice you get it's because someone is trying to help you avoid some pain.
#8
Well, they do make a VG30E that puts out 300hp without boost. There is a link in the 2nd gen yahoo group. Though it cost in the neighborhood of 9k...which isn't worth it.
If you want to make over 200hp, you can do the various tuning, including CAI that runs right off the TB, exhuast, UDP, Engloid's intake manifold, 60mm TB, advance timing, cams, port/polished heads, headers, lighten flywheel. That may not get you 200hp, but it'll help. Next option is to run nitrous oxide. Though you will need to make sure you have good engine compression, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump, and get some gauges to monitor the engine (like nitrous bottle pressure, maybe EGT, etc). Also you need to be sure you get a proper shot. I stay on a the conservative side and maybe conside a 35-50 shot at most....but you can do more, but you'd have to really know what your doing and be prepare to pay to play.
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If you want to make over 200hp, you can do the various tuning, including CAI that runs right off the TB, exhuast, UDP, Engloid's intake manifold, 60mm TB, advance timing, cams, port/polished heads, headers, lighten flywheel. That may not get you 200hp, but it'll help. Next option is to run nitrous oxide. Though you will need to make sure you have good engine compression, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump, and get some gauges to monitor the engine (like nitrous bottle pressure, maybe EGT, etc). Also you need to be sure you get a proper shot. I stay on a the conservative side and maybe conside a 35-50 shot at most....but you can do more, but you'd have to really know what your doing and be prepare to pay to play.
S
#9
absoultly NO NOS!....for one i dont like replacing gaskets valves and blocks from thrown rods...
i've come to a conclusion though...i was checkin out some pics of blown engines...because i hadnt seen an accual blown one before and i'm pretty sure my engine is more than a rebulit....i highly doubt its origonal too because the engine compartment and transmission is stained and has coagiliated oil on the under side...my conclusion...the engine in there before was driven hard and then went POP!....that only leaves one problem for me...if the engine is so clean its been replaced but the transmission isnt any where near as clean...well now it is i cleaned it but it was really dirty like 1/10th inch of crap caked on to it with oil grease and other stuff...not any thing that would come off a road but out of an engine....the engine probally has only a few thousand if that....the transmission has 160,000 and appears to have gone through some pretty rough sh*t...if it were raced arround here though being stock it would have kicked plenty of ***...people here dont know how to tune any thing except their chevy/ford big and small blocks...ok so i thought i'd ramble that out about the tranny...its an auto too..it shifts kinda rough in OD at arround 40...dont know if thats normal...
i fixed my voltage problem, my A/C and my throttle problem kinda fixed it self...
a/c cost was about $120 compressor and dryer both working...and than the R12 cost (yes i got R 12)...we used $140 of it but my uncle has his "secret stash" of tgoverment banned chemicals and such and he's only chargin us $50 and a 12 pack of beer...
i guess int theroy i could use this bock....but i dont think i want to ruin it doing this and it'll make good back up...
how much does a new tranny cost? there any compatable spot-tronic trannys?
i've come to a conclusion though...i was checkin out some pics of blown engines...because i hadnt seen an accual blown one before and i'm pretty sure my engine is more than a rebulit....i highly doubt its origonal too because the engine compartment and transmission is stained and has coagiliated oil on the under side...my conclusion...the engine in there before was driven hard and then went POP!....that only leaves one problem for me...if the engine is so clean its been replaced but the transmission isnt any where near as clean...well now it is i cleaned it but it was really dirty like 1/10th inch of crap caked on to it with oil grease and other stuff...not any thing that would come off a road but out of an engine....the engine probally has only a few thousand if that....the transmission has 160,000 and appears to have gone through some pretty rough sh*t...if it were raced arround here though being stock it would have kicked plenty of ***...people here dont know how to tune any thing except their chevy/ford big and small blocks...ok so i thought i'd ramble that out about the tranny...its an auto too..it shifts kinda rough in OD at arround 40...dont know if thats normal...
i fixed my voltage problem, my A/C and my throttle problem kinda fixed it self...
a/c cost was about $120 compressor and dryer both working...and than the R12 cost (yes i got R 12)...we used $140 of it but my uncle has his "secret stash" of tgoverment banned chemicals and such and he's only chargin us $50 and a 12 pack of beer...
i guess int theroy i could use this bock....but i dont think i want to ruin it doing this and it'll make good back up...
how much does a new tranny cost? there any compatable spot-tronic trannys?
#10
umm so your gonna do N2O? NOS is a brand......N2O is what you shoot into the engine....there is NOS, NX, etc.... One thing is, if you do the nitrous install right, and you don't abuse it, it will work out just fine. It's people who use and insane shot and doing every single time that end up with the blown motors.
Anyway....you wanna go faster......5-speed. They are lighter, and they don't waste power as much. But there is a downside. If you do boost, the life of the 5-speed maybe shorter than that of an auto.
Now as cost for a new tranny, expect to spend at least $2k. What I did when my original 5-speed went out, I found a used 3rd gen 5-speed for 400. It had about 60-80k miles on it. Did the swap, and I'm very happy with the tranny. Haven't had one problem with it, and I've already put about another 30k on it. If your gonna do a 5-speed conversion, I recommend you go with the 3rd gen tranny's (though they are the tranny, model number etc, they have slightly different gear ratios, better synchros, and they are a little more rugged. If you stick auto however, your probably going to have to stick with the 2nd gen tranny since they changed from generation to generation.
S
Anyway....you wanna go faster......5-speed. They are lighter, and they don't waste power as much. But there is a downside. If you do boost, the life of the 5-speed maybe shorter than that of an auto.
Now as cost for a new tranny, expect to spend at least $2k. What I did when my original 5-speed went out, I found a used 3rd gen 5-speed for 400. It had about 60-80k miles on it. Did the swap, and I'm very happy with the tranny. Haven't had one problem with it, and I've already put about another 30k on it. If your gonna do a 5-speed conversion, I recommend you go with the 3rd gen tranny's (though they are the tranny, model number etc, they have slightly different gear ratios, better synchros, and they are a little more rugged. If you stick auto however, your probably going to have to stick with the 2nd gen tranny since they changed from generation to generation.
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#12
lol, nitrous isn't flammable, its when you mix it with a flammable substance that you have problems. Remember, this is pretty much the same stuff the dentist usually give patients when removing cavities etc.
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#13
i've never been put to sleep for any thing...never broekn any thing or had to have surgury from faulty body parts either (me not the car)...
any way i had a stroke of genius a few minutes ago...i crused through the bluebird sticky and rember something about how our cars came out of the factory w/turbo...my stroke of genius is that i know people in japan...about 3 of them at the moment...one'll be comming home soon and one is a japanese citizen...i could call them up and ask them to poke arround and see how much one would cost...but then theres the shipping...ugh slow and expencive but it could save me alot of fabrication couldnt it?
any way i had a stroke of genius a few minutes ago...i crused through the bluebird sticky and rember something about how our cars came out of the factory w/turbo...my stroke of genius is that i know people in japan...about 3 of them at the moment...one'll be comming home soon and one is a japanese citizen...i could call them up and ask them to poke arround and see how much one would cost...but then theres the shipping...ugh slow and expencive but it could save me alot of fabrication couldnt it?
#14
Originally posted by Niku-Sama
i've never been put to sleep for any thing...never broekn any thing or had to have surgury from faulty body parts either (me not the car)...
any way i had a stroke of genius a few minutes ago...i crused through the bluebird sticky and rember something about how our cars came out of the factory w/turbo...my stroke of genius is that i know people in japan...about 3 of them at the moment...one'll be comming home soon and one is a japanese citizen...i could call them up and ask them to poke arround and see how much one would cost...but then theres the shipping...ugh slow and expencive but it could save me alot of fabrication couldnt it?
i've never been put to sleep for any thing...never broekn any thing or had to have surgury from faulty body parts either (me not the car)...
any way i had a stroke of genius a few minutes ago...i crused through the bluebird sticky and rember something about how our cars came out of the factory w/turbo...my stroke of genius is that i know people in japan...about 3 of them at the moment...one'll be comming home soon and one is a japanese citizen...i could call them up and ask them to poke arround and see how much one would cost...but then theres the shipping...ugh slow and expencive but it could save me alot of fabrication couldnt it?
Good luck, I hope this pans out for you.
#15
The bluebird runs the same drive platform as the maxima counterpart. So 1st gen max, and the bluebird counterpart were RWD. 2nd gen and the bluebird counterpart are FWD....then the bluebird started following the Altima/Stanza line. Also the factory turbo in the Bluebird and Maxima Legran was a VG20ET....so yeah you'll be running boost, but with the displacement that has (2 liters opposed to our 3 liters), you'll be making a little bit more, if not the same power you do now with the VG30E. So keep that in mind.
#16
you think it'd be possible to retro fit a bluebird's turbine on to one of our 3 liter engines?
i'm thinkin that its the same car except for a few differences in the voice is japanese (if they even did that) the drivers side is swapped and the spedo only goes Kph instead of Mph...
a 2 liter 6 cylindar...its not like the japanese to make 2 completely different blocks...i would bet that they are generally the same except the 3 liters had the cylindars bored to a larger size...
i'm thinkin that its the same car except for a few differences in the voice is japanese (if they even did that) the drivers side is swapped and the spedo only goes Kph instead of Mph...
a 2 liter 6 cylindar...its not like the japanese to make 2 completely different blocks...i would bet that they are generally the same except the 3 liters had the cylindars bored to a larger size...
#17
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No, there's no way they bored out a 2L engine into a 3L one. You'd only bore out an engine to get maybe a .3L increase in volume. Those would be some damn thick cylinder walls if that were the case and would just add unnecessary weight to the car. They used a smaller block over there because that's what the Japanese and Australian markets were looking for, something that gets good fuel efficiency. They're not preoccupied with big engines and horsepower over there.
It may be possible to use the acutal turbine from the Bluebird, but why bother when you can get one from a Z31 here in the States that you know will work.
-C-
It may be possible to use the acutal turbine from the Bluebird, but why bother when you can get one from a Z31 here in the States that you know will work.
-C-
#18
Yeah, I was gonna say what Charles said....except they stopped the forums right before I hit the submit reply. The basic engine design is the same in all VG's, but the 2.0 V6 is going to be physically smaller because of it's displacement. If your going to bolt on a turbo, you'd best go with a one from the VG30ET.
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