Oil loss mystery?
Oil loss mystery?
My car does not burn oil, leak oil while sitting nor is there any indication of it pushing any out while running, yet it consistently loses two (or a bit more) quarts between changes. Anyone have any ideas where it could be going? I'm absolutely confounded.
If your valve stem seals are old, you will leak some from there and out the tailpipe. You can burn oil in pretty good amounts and not see it out of the exhaust. It's only when it's burning massive amounts of oil, will you actually see it.
My old VE motor was pretty abused before I got it. Whole thing was varnished up but I didn't know any better when I bought it. I used a good amount of oil. When a rod end finally let go I tore down the engine for grins. When I removed the valve stem seals to sell all the valves, they were really hard/brittle. I know they weren't sealing like the should. But I never saw any exhaust and it passed emissions fine. You might want to try some additives that make the seals swell up a bit.
My old VE motor was pretty abused before I got it. Whole thing was varnished up but I didn't know any better when I bought it. I used a good amount of oil. When a rod end finally let go I tore down the engine for grins. When I removed the valve stem seals to sell all the valves, they were really hard/brittle. I know they weren't sealing like the should. But I never saw any exhaust and it passed emissions fine. You might want to try some additives that make the seals swell up a bit.
Yeah, I agree with Jeff, that's usually the case. My car has a slight case of it every now and then...but mine only takes a half quart every oil change. I do have some minor seepage on the valve covers, but other than that, the car runs like a champ.
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I wouldn't say lucky....the VG30E is a remarkably well built motor, most people don't usually experience stuff like this until it gets up in the really high mileage range...175k plus, etc. The L24E isn't too bad either, those motors could take a beating and keep going.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
If your valve stem seals are old, you will leak some from there and out the tailpipe. You can burn oil in pretty good amounts and not see it out of the exhaust. It's only when it's burning massive amounts of oil, will you actually see it.
My old VE motor was pretty abused before I got it. Whole thing was varnished up but I didn't know any better when I bought it. I used a good amount of oil. When a rod end finally let go I tore down the engine for grins. When I removed the valve stem seals to sell all the valves, they were really hard/brittle. I know they weren't sealing like the should. But I never saw any exhaust and it passed emissions fine. You might want to try some additives that make the seals swell up a bit.
My old VE motor was pretty abused before I got it. Whole thing was varnished up but I didn't know any better when I bought it. I used a good amount of oil. When a rod end finally let go I tore down the engine for grins. When I removed the valve stem seals to sell all the valves, they were really hard/brittle. I know they weren't sealing like the should. But I never saw any exhaust and it passed emissions fine. You might want to try some additives that make the seals swell up a bit.
Thanks.
Not necessarily. I have no idea why it let go. All of a sudden, it started using oil like crazy and I didn't catch it in time. I'd say, check your oil level frequently and maybe try a seal conditioner in those long life oils. Or try upping the viscosity on level.
Originally Posted by John L
So, I should rebuild the head before something BAD happens to the bottom end?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Agreed...and don't use a normal engine flush, as it's likely to tear down the already fragile seals...a good conditioner, maybe like rislone, but not a normal stop leak...and then, try a thicker visc. oil...if it's still doing it, then consider a leak seal, but be careful which one you use...some try and condition the seals, and only damage them, and some just thicken the oil. The best have conditioners, and visc. thickener, and lube additives....
oops...but if everything else fails, and the oil drain is bothering you, then rebuilding the head should cure the problem, and it's a lot less expensive than a complete engine rebuild...
I was always brought up to think no amount of chemestry can ever fix a mechanical problem, which is usually true, but seals can be made to last longer with chemicals...
I was always brought up to think no amount of chemestry can ever fix a mechanical problem, which is usually true, but seals can be made to last longer with chemicals...
I had a problem with my '85 Max leaking a little oil, about a quart and a half between oil changes. My mechanic told me that it was my rear main oil seal but it wasn't worth it to replace it since it would require a lot of time in labor. I have since switched to a full synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1 - 10W-30) and add a can of Restore with each oil change and the past few times I changed it it hasn't dropped at all. I now have 180,000+ miles on it and the engine runs like new again. The synthetic costs a little more but with high mileage engines it is worth every penny to keep them running as long as possible, and it sure beats having to buy a new car.
Actually, synthetics can be very detrimental on older cars. This is the first time I've heard of a car with 100k + miles stop leaking when switching to synthetic, though it's probably the RESTORE that fixed up the leaks. Personally I wouldn't recommend switching to synthetic. Simply because it will literally clean your engine out, include dino oil form grudge seals. This would cause the motor to leak like a ****. I've had this happen to my on my 88 ranger when I put synthetic oil in. I've also run in to numerous people who too did that and had this happen. Plus the other problem, is even though this does clean out the grudge seals, it usually cause it to break down into chunks, which can get stuck in oil passages, preventing oil from circulating properly for a period of time until the synthetic dissolves it. This can cause serious engine damage too. However, if you engine has had a history of using synthetic, then your fine. Its only a problem if your engine has 100k+ miles with no history of using synthetic. Also there are people that get lucky, like pimpinatncsu, but then again he's putting an additive in also. My 2 cents.
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yea my aunt and uncle have an 87 carolla waggon...they have to take a case of oil and a funnel every where with them because thats all they ever used...but then again this car has 310,000 miles on all the origonal parts and has been drivin great distances w/o oil so its bound to leak....some
they're comming down for a funeral i'll see if i can get some pics...
they're comming down for a funeral i'll see if i can get some pics...
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