Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

ok....the heater relay behind my dash in the engine compartment is buzzing loudly when ever my RPM is under about 800...

now i was thinking because this hadnt been buzzing the whole time and i recently replaced the AC compressor and the belt from that does arround the alternator, if the belt or the pully want tightened enough or to much and is causing an overvolt and over time wore my relay out and caused it to buzz...


i dont really know whats going on and i bet that doesent make any sence but some freaky things have been happeneing and i dont want it to be a bad electrical system

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

A good way to tell if your system is overcharging it to check your volt gauge. They are pretty accurate in these cars, what reading do you get when the car is running?

S

Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

14~16...depending on how fast i am going and 12 even when my lights are on

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

hmmm, 16 is on the hi side. You should read probably 14.5 tops. Your belt maybe too tight....but then again, it doesn't explain why your voltmeter drops to 12 volts with your accessories on. You might want to double check your battery connections, you could have a loose connection causing some of the stuff your having.

S

Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

well...some news...

today i hunted down a relay that started buzzzing the other day and its tthe relay right behind the dash in the engine compartment on the drivers side...the heater relay...was buzzing loudly...and luckily the ASCD relay was the same type so i switched them and no more buzz and my voltage is right at 12volts idleing, a little under with as many things on as i could think of (like just a hair) and when i rev it up it goes to 16 still but thats only when its over 2500RPM...my idle is a little more smooth (it isnt makeing the bump bump sounds any more) and its a little higher...

i'm kinda confused now...i think it may have just been a bad relay messing with my system but i dont know it sounds too easy...i'm still worried that its something else and the relay failed because of continual over voltage over time...

i deal with alot of computers (PC's not ECU type things) and when you over clock something you usually pump more voltage into it but over time it can make things unstable so this over voltage thing makes sence in one way but still....like i said it was too easy...

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

umm, your system is only reading at 12 volts and a little under with stuff on.....that's actually a bad thing. Your car should read 14 volts when the motor is running, with it around 13 with everything on. It shouldn't go all the way up to 16 volts either. Sounds like your voltage regulator is going south. You may need to replace or rebuild your altenator.

S

Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

coudl that be why my indicator lights dont go off for a while too?

seeing how its a 12 volt system i'm not going to worry too much and i wont blow any thing by reving the engine up because i only have it past 2000 when i am warming it up or testing something out

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Worry about it...if the regulator goes souoth completely, you risk frying every electronic device in the car, including the ECU. At the first sign of a voltage reg going out, replace it...

Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

and the regulator is where? is it just part of the alternator? because i cant find it in the damn chiltons manual....i cant find any thing in that freakin book...

i'm just about to go out and put the new relay in....if it stableizes at all i'll come bacl and let you know...although its just going to the ASCD in the relay box so i dont think it'll make any difference

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

the regulator is built into the altenator. If you want to replace it, you'll have to not only rebuild your altenator, but you'll need to do some soldering. Though with that in mind, you might just replace the altenator all together.

S

Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

soldering is no problem...after modifying some of my computer parts (mouse, joysticks, an x-box controler to work with the PC) i think i got it down...although...

how much does a regulator cost and how much does a replacement alternator cost (a decent one that'll last a while)

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well, a decent replacement altenator will cost you about $80-130.As for the regulator, I'm not sure...plus you'd have to do some digging to find it, since its not always a readily available replacement part.

S

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Rockauto.com sells the voltage regulator for about $90, and a complete, rebuilt alternator for about $119, for the high-end, or $99 for the cheapy...both with LT warranty...so it's actually just as cheap, and a whole lot easier, to just buy a rebuilt alt, and be done with it...

Niku-Sama

iTrader: (1)

ok i'm gonna say it again....i'm not going to worry about it...but for a different reason, i cant afford it right now...

my grandmother died a few days ago and i might get money from that (i hope i dont) but spending it right away just sounds like greedy grandchild to me...

and who knows it could be a glazed belt too because i cant really see it all that well, it does move alot inbetween the pullys, lots of up and down shaking but still...