C.V. Boot solutions
#1
C.V. Boot solutions
I just noticed, that the right front outer C.V. boot is cracked all around at the root.
Since replacing the CV boot requires disassembling the front suspension partially, after that I should have to have a wheel alignment done as well (an extra $60)
So, I am playing with the thought of replacing the cracked CV boot with one that does not require removing the driveshaft from the hub.
I figured, that I might use "Camel" Rubber Cement to glue the boot together at the split to reinforce the connection in the split.
(and once its dry, I would pull it in the final position and clamp it.
Does someone know a relatively reliable split CV boot brand of such?
Geza
Since replacing the CV boot requires disassembling the front suspension partially, after that I should have to have a wheel alignment done as well (an extra $60)
So, I am playing with the thought of replacing the cracked CV boot with one that does not require removing the driveshaft from the hub.
I figured, that I might use "Camel" Rubber Cement to glue the boot together at the split to reinforce the connection in the split.
(and once its dry, I would pull it in the final position and clamp it.
Does someone know a relatively reliable split CV boot brand of such?
Geza
#3
A split boot like that is only for a temporary band-aid fix...if you want to do it right, either have the CV joint rebuilt properly, or replace the entire axle. Axle replacement is not difficult, and I can tell you how to do it with requiring a front end alignment...
#4
Hello MaxWgn,
Thanks for talking me out of using split boot.
I decided to replace the cracked boot with a regular (non-split) boot, today I called one of the 3 local dealers, he quoted me $52 for a CV boot kit that contains the boot, 2 clamps, grease and a circlip.
(I can get an aftermarket boot kit for about 10 bucks without the circlip, but I would feel safer to have a spare one in case it'd break since I will do the work on a side street Saturday morning.)
Do you know where could I get a circlip or a similar complete kit with the circlip? (for less). (I'd hate to pay 40 bucks for a circlip to be honest with you.)
I don't want to replace the whole driveshaft because it is in excellent shape (despite of 190,000 miles in it), because I could not be sure of the shape of a rebuilt one.
By checking my Maxima from a frog's perspective I also noticed that the swaybar bushings are shot and even the brackets lost their original symmetric shapes. Do you know of a place, where I could get some high performance bushing sets and maybe brackets from sturdier material?
I have to tell you that the road conditions in Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley) are not too good, lots of holes and cracks (Earthquake land, right?), that's why I have so much problems with the suspension.
Geza
Thanks for talking me out of using split boot.
I decided to replace the cracked boot with a regular (non-split) boot, today I called one of the 3 local dealers, he quoted me $52 for a CV boot kit that contains the boot, 2 clamps, grease and a circlip.
(I can get an aftermarket boot kit for about 10 bucks without the circlip, but I would feel safer to have a spare one in case it'd break since I will do the work on a side street Saturday morning.)
Do you know where could I get a circlip or a similar complete kit with the circlip? (for less). (I'd hate to pay 40 bucks for a circlip to be honest with you.)
I don't want to replace the whole driveshaft because it is in excellent shape (despite of 190,000 miles in it), because I could not be sure of the shape of a rebuilt one.
By checking my Maxima from a frog's perspective I also noticed that the swaybar bushings are shot and even the brackets lost their original symmetric shapes. Do you know of a place, where I could get some high performance bushing sets and maybe brackets from sturdier material?
I have to tell you that the road conditions in Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley) are not too good, lots of holes and cracks (Earthquake land, right?), that's why I have so much problems with the suspension.
Geza
#5
Try www.partsamerica.com...when I looked up the boot kit, it showed everything except the grease, for $17.99 for the inner, and $15.99 for the outer. In comparison, the half-shafts are $87.99 ea there, for the Beck/Arnley units.
The half-shafts I got were CCT units from Autozone. Unfortunately, when I bought mine, they were $140 each, and now they're $60 each. Oh well, mine wouldn't have made it long enough for the price to come down.
Also, the bushings can be gotten at Autozone. I bought the universal end-link bushings, and universal polyeurethane bushings, including HD brackets, there. I had to take my old, worn out bushings in, though, to try and find the closest size to what was on the car...sorry, but I don't remember the part numbers.
The half-shafts I got were CCT units from Autozone. Unfortunately, when I bought mine, they were $140 each, and now they're $60 each. Oh well, mine wouldn't have made it long enough for the price to come down.
Also, the bushings can be gotten at Autozone. I bought the universal end-link bushings, and universal polyeurethane bushings, including HD brackets, there. I had to take my old, worn out bushings in, though, to try and find the closest size to what was on the car...sorry, but I don't remember the part numbers.
#6
I ended up buying a C.V. boot kit (Beck/Arnley) from Kragen Auto parts, it included everything (boot, 2 clamps, grease, and several circlips)
but I ended up ordering sway bar bushings and brackets from a small town Nissan dealer.
I realized, that all Nissan dealers in Los Angeles try to rip you off with prices where ever they can, but small town dealers are nicer folks, I guess because they meet you at the church every Sunday and want to be able to look into your eyes there.![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
For example Miller Nissan in Van Nuys sells the sway bar bracket for $16.73/EACH!!! while the dealer in Thousand Oaks sells the same for only $9.08/ea.
Same price-difference ratio applies to all other parts, that I was inquring about.
Maxwgn, what is your experience with the poliurethan sway bar bushings? I checked them out at Autozone, but they seemed to feel so rigid, that I decided to pass on them, mainly because I am not a racing driver, I rather enjoy some music from the radio.![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
At this store they only had bushing with brackets with greasing nipples, have you got yours with or without them?
Do they ever make squeaking noise?
Geza
but I ended up ordering sway bar bushings and brackets from a small town Nissan dealer.
I realized, that all Nissan dealers in Los Angeles try to rip you off with prices where ever they can, but small town dealers are nicer folks, I guess because they meet you at the church every Sunday and want to be able to look into your eyes there.
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
For example Miller Nissan in Van Nuys sells the sway bar bracket for $16.73/EACH!!! while the dealer in Thousand Oaks sells the same for only $9.08/ea.
Same price-difference ratio applies to all other parts, that I was inquring about.
Maxwgn, what is your experience with the poliurethan sway bar bushings? I checked them out at Autozone, but they seemed to feel so rigid, that I decided to pass on them, mainly because I am not a racing driver, I rather enjoy some music from the radio.
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
At this store they only had bushing with brackets with greasing nipples, have you got yours with or without them?
Do they ever make squeaking noise?
Geza
#8
It is a very good question. We'll see how Arnie will be able to pull the State of Calif. out of the ****, that it's in currently.
Does someone know what is the socket size for the front and rear hub nuts on our Maximas?
(I am going to do CV boot- and rear bearing jobs on it soon but I am not sure if I have the right size of socket(s).
Geza
Does someone know what is the socket size for the front and rear hub nuts on our Maximas?
(I am going to do CV boot- and rear bearing jobs on it soon but I am not sure if I have the right size of socket(s).
Geza
#9
I don't member correctly, but I think the fronts are like 26-28mm, and the rears are like 19-21mm...
As for the bushings, mine have the nips, which is no biggie to me...the end links don't squeek at all...the brackets a bush for the bar can and will if they are not greased...but the grease I shot them with when installing is still working it's magic...no squeeks at all...and the car is a LITTLE tighter when turning...don't lean as much...but the rear's are still rubber, until I find a way to stiffen them up...and maybe throw in a heavier bar...
I've also seen issues with pricing, as well...with my idling issue, I had to buy a fusible link...it was special order, and when they looked it up, they gave the suggested price of $13.98...when I picked it up, they charged their normal price, so my total was only $8.73....not much more than a parts house woulda charged...so not too shabby...
As for the bushings, mine have the nips, which is no biggie to me...the end links don't squeek at all...the brackets a bush for the bar can and will if they are not greased...but the grease I shot them with when installing is still working it's magic...no squeeks at all...and the car is a LITTLE tighter when turning...don't lean as much...but the rear's are still rubber, until I find a way to stiffen them up...and maybe throw in a heavier bar...
I've also seen issues with pricing, as well...with my idling issue, I had to buy a fusible link...it was special order, and when they looked it up, they gave the suggested price of $13.98...when I picked it up, they charged their normal price, so my total was only $8.73....not much more than a parts house woulda charged...so not too shabby...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CAN-Toronto FS: Basement cleaning
knight_yyz
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
12
11-01-2015 01:34 PM
jchronis2552
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
2
09-21-2015 05:52 AM