Well, everyone is probably familiar with hot start issues
with their Max where it runs a little rough for a few seconds...

Well, mine has taken the next step... it will sometimes start,
then die, sometimes it will start and idle fine only try to stall
if I give it any gas, or sometimes it just cranks without starting.

Usually if I let it sit for a few minutes, I can finally get on my
way... it kind of acts like a flooding carb.

At the times it starts and idles but won't go when throttle is
applied, it will dump black smoke (running rich) out the exhaust.

Again, if I just let it sit and cool off/idle I can get on my way.

Over the weekend I did a tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
set timing, & air filter. I replaced the O2 sensor last year
and it has maybe 8K miles on it.

After working on it Saturday, it didn't act up the rest of the
weekend so I considered it fixed.

Today while leaving a client's parking garage, it stalled right
after I paid my bill... the attendant had to help push the car
out of the way - embarrassing!

The car eventually started and I was on my way, but...

I've check the ECU for codes and there weren't any...

Anyone have ANY idea what could be the problem???


Thanks!
Scott

 

MAF sensor or it could just be the ECU itself.
My guess would be the ECU. You might need a new one. your probably looking at 300$ for a rebuilt one, and 100$ for junk yard parts.

 

please don't take Drj's advice... he's a frickin moron that drives around with no o2 sensor.. yet he still wonders why his car runs rich...

anyway... you didn't replace the ignition coil.... i would suggest that you do so.... then your hearse will be okay... so you can go back to escorting dead people to their final resting places.....

 

Hmmm, that's another intelligent post......NOT!

Anyways, I was having a hot start problem and it turned out to be simply that I forgot to tighten the hose clamp around the rubber boot on the throttle body. Just a suggestion before you start swapping parts, you might want to check that there are no cracks or splits in yours. What was happening with mine was when it was already hot, with no fast idle, it wasn't making enough vaccuum to pull the loose hose tight. When it finally quit sputtering and revved up it sucked the hose tight and would run fine.

 

could not have the hose tight, going into the TB cause the idle to fluctuate once warm? I am still having issues will my idle (only after it is warm)...I am guessing a sensor is shot but I will try the easy stuff first. I tightend the clamp down but it is still not that tight, I can pull it off even when the clamp is tight....I am guessing I should try a new clamp (because the existing one has warn grooves in the hose)?

 

It could if there is any air getting in that didn't go through the MAF. I would try it and see, hose clamps are cheap.

 

Is your Max auto?
Mine is, it did the same thing last year. Only after I changed MAF,like two months later the ECU was gone. But it was still throwing codes,we replaced it and the car ran good after that strong idle and no hard starts.But hey you could change the Ignition coil,it may help.
Of course then you'd be listening to someone who likes the sound of his own voice so much he stuck his head up his own A** so he could catch the echo!

Deacon where's all this animosity coming from, you act like I came to your job and took the squigee out of your hand.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys...

The coil is already new... I was thinking about the MAF but
haven't ohmed it out yet to see where it's at... need to check
it both cold and warm.

I pulled the TB air inlet tube off to take a look to see if the
TB was full of carbon... the clamp tightened up just fine...

I didn't look the tube over too much for cracks.

Here's a new twist, I've found that when it starts acting up,
I can hold the accelerator full open and it will start MUCH
easier...

My plan is to check the MAF, the TPS, and to clean the
the TB of excess carbon.

Then I'll look over the air inlet tube for cracks... I've been
meaning to build my own CAI, now seems to be a good time.

Thanks!
Scott

 

Scott,
I know you are not on here really any more but did you ever get this problem solved...I am having the same symptoms you are describing here. If you get this message please let me know...or anyone else that may have an idea please post.

 

The problem got taken care of when the water pump started squealing...

Since the pump started leaking, I was worried about the timing belt (even
though it was changed right before I bought the car - only had 10K miles
on it).

I didn't have the time (or space at the time) to mess with it so I had the
dealer change out for me... while they were in there, I had them change
out the CHTS... the car no longer had a problem after that.

I think that the CHTS fixed the problem, although the rubber lines at the
fuel pressure regulator were starting to crack. They wouldn't leak fuel at
all, but they were real spongy.

You may want to take a look at yours, but I thing the CHTS is going to
be the problem... I had them swap out the harness as well.

Man do I miss driving my little wagon!

Still have it, it's sitting out at my step son's house...

On a positive note, I got the Nova out a couple of weeks ago... still
trying to get the perma-grin off my face!

There's no replacement for displacement!

I have a rule set up in my email for responses to any thread that I have
posted to...

Take Care (of your Max)!

Scott

 

well i had that problem and i got a....well a working (it had been refurbed not long before it wound up in the yard) MAF and not when i start my car after its been running i get this werid un even idel and bumpiong alot... so i'm not entirely sure its the MAF

 

I pulled codes again last week before I changed my fuel temp sensor, and the CHTS code decided to pop up this time....WTH? That sensor and harness is on about 6K miles old. I need to pull codes again and see if it came back, but I am defintly still having this problem.

 

Another thing that comes to mind is that I had a coil that was
intermittant until it finally died one day.

It caused similar issues as well... how long has it been since you've
given the car a tune up? Plugs, cap & rotor, wires, & even O2 sensor?

Scott

 

every thing you have listed is a year old at the most. But I got all of my parts from advanced auto, so the coil is not a nissan coil (but I still have my nissan coil), the wires are not NGK but the plugs are, and I have a bosch O2 sensor. I am also throwing codes still. I will pull codes again this weekend and see what is still hanging around. I was throwing the CHTS code (which I just replaced), I was throwing and ignition signal code, and I was also throwing the fuel temp sensor code (I just put one in as well).