Well this is still the same problem I had under the "Check for spark" topic I started. I went to the salvage yard, and pulled a new Ignition coil + Power Transistor, a new Distributor with Crank Angle Sensor, and a new MAF. Tried them all one at a time, and no go. I am coming to the conclusion that blackmaxima88 was right about blowing something out in the ECU. I also checked if my injectors would shoot when rotating the distributor, but nope. So basically right now I have no spark, and no fuel... the only code I get in Mode III on the ECU is (13) Engine head temperature sensor. I had a problem with that last year, but the car still ran, so I highly doubt that would be the problem. If it is the ECU, any idea on how much one costs?

 

I am not positive how much they cost but I may be able to get you one from a junk yard....I am guessing it would be between 30-60 bux (i really dont know)....just let me know if you want me to get you one

 

that's probably what it was. those computers are extremely delicate. even something as little as a small amount of static from touching it can kill an IC chip and the whole thing will be useless. it's just like working on the computer in your house. and I think that when you found those wires that were shorted, it was enough of a short to ground to kill a transistor or IC. that probably wasn't a 12v circuit either, but 12v probably got sent back to the ECU and it couldn't handle it.

I could be wrong, it's a shot in the dark without looking at it. let us know how you make out.

Dan

 

and I actually did that one time. my VW stopped running and all I knew was it wasn't getting a spark. I wasn't aware at the time that the timing belt was broken, which meant the distributor wasn't turning, meaning no spark. but because I was dumb and 18, I thought it was a good idea to hook the ignition coil directly up to the battery (yeah) and see if it got a spark. well, it did. months down the road and I eventually got the timing belt on there and it still wasn't running. then I read that hooking the coil up to the battery was a DUMB move. the back voltage went to the ECU and toasted something. so I pulled the ECU out of my friend's vw that he wrecked, stuck it in mine, turned the key, and she fired right up. that's how I got the idea basically the same thing happened to you.

Dan

 

Well I am going to call the Nissan dealer and see if they can test it before I buy yet another part I might not need. Hopefully they don't charge for the test or it is a very small amount. Also wonder if they still have tests for such an old car. I will see.

Thanks.

 

Zellix

Remove your dist. and rotate the shaft...you should get a spark from the coil wire coming out of the coil to a good engine ground...if you don't, then you have a 12v wiring problem going to your coil and power transistor...that is if you have already replaced them with known good parts. By the way I paid $60 bucks for my ECU...but did not need it and exchanged it for a dist w/CAS

telfonejac

 

Zellix

Sorry...BE SURE AND MARK THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR IN RELATION TO A STABLE SPOT SOMEWHERE ON THE ENGINE AND PUT IT BACK IN THE EXACT POSITION WHEN YOU REPLACE THE DIST. By the way do not remove your wiring harness to the CAS when you remove the dist. With ignition on and rotating the dist shaft you will get a clicking sound from the fuel injectors and a spark from the coil. Like I said if you DO NOT then you have a wiring problem (12v Bat) or your CAS is bad. If you have turned the CAS plate without removing the dist from the engine then you have destroyed the the plate. It is keyed so it will not turn without the dist shaft turning!

telfonejac