change the rear brake pads? Anyone ever do this on their max? Are there any tricky parts?

 

Its not that bad. I had a hard time with the shims dropping. So I had to do the install a couple of times before i got it. If you can walk and chew gum you can do this.

 

yeah it wasn't bad at all. if you can do front brakes, you can do the back brakes. it probably took me a total of 30 minutes once I found a c-clamp.

Dan

 

On that rears however, you DON'T use a c-clamp. There is a tool that you can attach to a ratchet that has 4 nubs on it (you can find it at places like NAPA). You use that to turn the piston in (clockwise). If you use a c-clamp, you can destroy the piston. Be sure you get that as far in as possible. Once you have the caliper back on the rotor, step on the brakes to seat the pads before bleeding.

S

 

why do you bleed your brakes after a pad change? You never open the system? Anyway just wondering if i am missing something because I never bleed them after changing pads, and I have never had a problem.

-changing the rear pads is easy just remove the top bolt on the caliper (one of the two bolts that holds the two pieces of the caliper together), not the bolts that bolt it to the hub(not sure if thats the right part). and if its still too tight to pull down then loosen the bottom one but dont take it out. Also when doing the rear make sure your parking brake is not on. Then just screw the piston down with the tool described above (or pliars) and put new pads on with shims and grease between the rear of the pads and the shims.

-Carson

 

I usually do since I like to flush out the line when I do my brakes. I guess technically you can do it without bleeding....though you would need to remove the extra fluid from the resivoir as well.

S

 

As you pads wear down, the level of brake fluid decreases...from one pad change to another, the level could drop low enough to introduce air into the lines, as if you had an empty M/C. When you replace the pads, and push the pistons back in, it's also possible to push some of the brake fluid out of the M/C, then, when initially pumping the brakes, end up with a low fluid level condition. Therefore, although it's not required, bleeding the brakes after a pad change is an easy way to ensure no air entered the system during the procedure.

 

Ive done it without bleeding. Just pump your brakes after cranking the car to get the line pressure back to being equal. I have this 4 pronged, cubed tool. I got it from a Nissan tech in Georgia. He just gave it to me. But before that I was using nice sized needle nose pliers and pushing down on it and turning it. It wasnt hard. Check your rotors too to make sure that they are still good. If not then I think with the rotors on the back I believe you have to take out the bearings in the back and repack them. That wasnt hard either. I think one of my bearings in the back is going so Im going to replace those soon too. Its not hard just get a Haynes and follow the instructions.