ok this morning i try to start my car, it runs like normal for about 10 secconds, dies....like no gas, but have half a tank

start again does the same, if i start and hold the throttle down some it'll run for a while longer but suptters out and dies, if i push too far down on the pedal it dies...

after ****ing with it for 45 minutes making me late for work by 30 minutes it will finally stay running but running at sub 500RPM and if i go out and drive it its fine after about 10 minutes


what the ****ing hell is wrong?

 

a guy a few days ago was having a smilar problem that when he hit the gas the car would die and it turned out to be his MAF. Also make sure your TPS is hooked up. Go a few post down and check his thread out...there were other suggestions on that post as well. Good luck.

-Carson

 

a few threads down, very specific.....sorry if i seem snappish but i dont have a mother ****ing JOB now and its not because of my car...

worst day EVER!

about the car:
i went to my uncles shop, pulled a code 44 (ie no codes, system clear) out of the DIAG plug behind the kick board, tested sensors with a multi, tested fuel pressure fluids are full, voltage and oilpressure are good when the car runs...

the thing is, it runs and dies when you do nothing, it runs and dies eventually when you are on the gas a little bit parked. if you push down to far on the gas while parked it sputters and dies. if for some miracle of god you get it moving before it dies the car is running almost as good as it did before all this **** happened....

so....what the ****?

 

Check the MAF

 

By checking it I mean replace it with another one from a junk yard or wherever you can get one and see if it does the same thing. Oh and if you havent replaced your air filter do that too.

 

well i think my luck has changed today.... there was one maf left in the maximas at my yard the car has 145,000 on it and the maf was remanufactured by fuel injection corp. USA

i also found a light and a AAV i think is still good too....is there any sure fire way by looking at a MAF to see if its still good?

 

ECU might tell ya. Other way is to take a voltmeter to it and look up the tolerances in the FSM.

S

 

i said above the ECU gives code 44 (I.E. no codes) and we tested the sensors with a multi and they are fine

 

Ah yes...the grimlins. I say leave cloves of garlic around your engine bay and call me in the morning.

S

 

lol.. nice.

I thought a code 55 was normal? I don't even see a code 44 in the book at all.

 

85-86 is code 44. 87-88 is code 55.

S

 

this is a code pulled from a thingy hooked to the diagnostic port... so it might have been off either way no codes....i did replace the MAF today and it seems to be the culprit....funny thing is the one that came out of my car is SUPER clean and doesent work, the other one is really really freakin dirty and works....so i am guessing something electrical went bad in the one i pulled from it...

i'm gonna pop it opne and see what it is, mabe i can fix it since the filiments are all intact....i would rather have a cleaner MAF instead of a dirty one

mabe transplant electrical innards?

 

Usually when the maf fails and the filaments are still good, something on printed board went bad.

S