High Mileage 1st & 2nd Generation cars
#45
OK.........250k miles on the clock with 25k being after turbo installation and only now am experiencing the front u joint getting tight and soon to fail.
I guess it's time to take the 4 speed out and put in the 3 speed (280zx turbo) with high stall speed torque convertor and a custom driveshaft.
I guess it's time to take the 4 speed out and put in the 3 speed (280zx turbo) with high stall speed torque convertor and a custom driveshaft.
#46
Well I don't have a 2nd gen, but since I can't start threads for some reason, I'll just post here..
I bought my 4th gen with 307K (it was 1 owner too!!) about a month ago and have already put 4K trouble free miles on it for a grand total of 311K and still rolling right along, racking on ever more miles.
Of course, that VQ still runs like a bat outta hell...man what a motor...
So far, I've only seen 2 cars in this post with higher miles... lets keep showing the world how great our Maximas are built, eh guys??
I bought my 4th gen with 307K (it was 1 owner too!!) about a month ago and have already put 4K trouble free miles on it for a grand total of 311K and still rolling right along, racking on ever more miles.
Of course, that VQ still runs like a bat outta hell...man what a motor...
So far, I've only seen 2 cars in this post with higher miles... lets keep showing the world how great our Maximas are built, eh guys??
#49
U joint finally broke so I had to do some grinding on the yoke and the only u-joint I found with close dimensions was for a forklift.
Would have had to remove too much material to fit the clips so I spent time with a hammer, vise, micrometer, welder and the obligatory wet rags to keep the thing from losing it's heat treat.
Works fine but I'm keeping an eye on the welds.
Would have had to remove too much material to fit the clips so I spent time with a hammer, vise, micrometer, welder and the obligatory wet rags to keep the thing from losing it's heat treat.
Works fine but I'm keeping an eye on the welds.
#53
#55
Now I see there is a dude on here with a dman twin turbo 2nd gen thats crrrazzzzyy.
I need to get me another 2nd gen but I want it to be 100% mint something hard to find here in the East. Or I could go for a digital dashed 3rd gen but those are so damn rare around here.
#59
Hi millage Maxi
This is not mine, however, it belongs to a local guy down here, he has posted several videos on line.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etsL2...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etsL2...eature=related
#60
The most moded 2nd gen in those days was Kaleb is he even still on here???
#61
82 Max diesel 5 speed 365k running strong
Hi everyone I have a 1982 Datsun Maxima I have owned it for 15 years and currently have 365,000 miles on the original engine.
its a diesel ld28 5 speed you have probably seen my videos on you tube.
white/blue
There is no oil consumption or blowbye.
Awesome car love it to death.
its a diesel ld28 5 speed you have probably seen my videos on you tube.
white/blue
There is no oil consumption or blowbye.
Awesome car love it to death.
#62
Hi everyone I have a 1982 Datsun Maxima I have owned it for 15 years and currently have 365,000 miles on the original engine.
its a diesel ld28 5 speed you have probably seen my videos on you tube.
white/blue
There is no oil consumption or blowbye.
Awesome car love it to death.
its a diesel ld28 5 speed you have probably seen my videos on you tube.
white/blue
There is no oil consumption or blowbye.
Awesome car love it to death.
gens 1-3 will always be the best, Nissan killed Maximas after 3rd gens
#63
#64
4th gens are still alright, using L-series engines and VG's was the best though. have to say i am not a fan of VQ's
1st gens, 2nd gens, and 3rd gens are 4DSC, 6th gens and 7th gens are land yacht luxury cars. its gross that Nissan put 4DSC stickers like 3rd gens had on 7th gens.
1st gens, 2nd gens, and 3rd gens are 4DSC, 6th gens and 7th gens are land yacht luxury cars. its gross that Nissan put 4DSC stickers like 3rd gens had on 7th gens.
#67
i literally cannot see myself ever owning a car newer than 1995ish with the exception of when R34 and S15 are available for import. i would be happy having my 3rd gen, a smaller 2dr like a S13 or 1st gen RX7, and a monster like a crazy built R32 or Supra.
#68
wow, just hit the 197,000 mark a couple of days ago!
i got a 85 (not gxe) station wagon, silver/grey and 197,009k.
hello to all on this board! i've learned a lot in the short amount of time here.
i've been lurking here for a couple of weeks now reading up on advice to get my max to better driving condition. i just brought it out of the dead (about 2 years of inactiveness) to use it as a commuter car since i started going back to college a about a month ago.
minor FRAT warning
so my max starts fine and idles at 1k in park. so far so good, about a minute or so of warming up, it may/or may not get a little hesitation which i in turn just give a little throttle(gas) to smoothen it out. it clears out and goes back to 1k rpms in Park.
here's the problem:
when reversing or driving out of park, sometimes it may die out. no big deal here, i find myself just as long a my foot is light on the throttle (feeding it some gas) the roughness is gone and the car doesn't get rough.
the biggest problem is when im at a complete stop at traffic lights and stop and go traffic. when making a stop, my max will, what i call "breathe." in stop, it can maintain a good idle in drive, at 1k, for about 30 secs, then the rpms start dropping slowly. ex. it goes from 1k to 900, then 1k to 800, 1k to 700, then 900 to 700, etc. the engine has a gradual heavy breathing effect similar to what we'd do after running 2 miles. it can usually hold this pattern without dying out. when it does die out is in extreme cases of stop and go traffic or being at a complete stop for a really long time, ex. 5 minutes.
to solve this i usually put my max in Park then just put it back to Drive when traffic resumes. this can be annoying really quick. on the freeway, i drive with a big gap with the car in front of me so i avoid complete stops and keep my car moving.
i really want to fix this rough idle and have taken some steps from advice read here and i know some of you can help me out too!
here's some things i've done so far.
clean mass air flow sensor (sprayed it down)
cleaned throttle body with carb cleaner
changed the air filter
these things definitely helped as my max ides better than before i did these changes
my next step is to clean/change the idle air control valve. in doing so, i'd like to replace the hose attached to the iac valve, but i'm not too sure what size of hose to buy to replace my existing hose for the iac valve.
here a link to the iac valve:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...air_valve.html
which hose would be the correct fit for the valve?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...heat_hose.html
can this be a fuel problem too since i'm constantly having my foot on the gas to smooth things out? i've read using some fuel injector cleaner and an additive to improve the octane in my gas tank, what are your thoughts?
thanks in advance guys! any and all thoughts are welcome.
aloha
i got a 85 (not gxe) station wagon, silver/grey and 197,009k.
hello to all on this board! i've learned a lot in the short amount of time here.
i've been lurking here for a couple of weeks now reading up on advice to get my max to better driving condition. i just brought it out of the dead (about 2 years of inactiveness) to use it as a commuter car since i started going back to college a about a month ago.
minor FRAT warning
so my max starts fine and idles at 1k in park. so far so good, about a minute or so of warming up, it may/or may not get a little hesitation which i in turn just give a little throttle(gas) to smoothen it out. it clears out and goes back to 1k rpms in Park.
here's the problem:
when reversing or driving out of park, sometimes it may die out. no big deal here, i find myself just as long a my foot is light on the throttle (feeding it some gas) the roughness is gone and the car doesn't get rough.
the biggest problem is when im at a complete stop at traffic lights and stop and go traffic. when making a stop, my max will, what i call "breathe." in stop, it can maintain a good idle in drive, at 1k, for about 30 secs, then the rpms start dropping slowly. ex. it goes from 1k to 900, then 1k to 800, 1k to 700, then 900 to 700, etc. the engine has a gradual heavy breathing effect similar to what we'd do after running 2 miles. it can usually hold this pattern without dying out. when it does die out is in extreme cases of stop and go traffic or being at a complete stop for a really long time, ex. 5 minutes.
to solve this i usually put my max in Park then just put it back to Drive when traffic resumes. this can be annoying really quick. on the freeway, i drive with a big gap with the car in front of me so i avoid complete stops and keep my car moving.
i really want to fix this rough idle and have taken some steps from advice read here and i know some of you can help me out too!
here's some things i've done so far.
clean mass air flow sensor (sprayed it down)
cleaned throttle body with carb cleaner
changed the air filter
these things definitely helped as my max ides better than before i did these changes
my next step is to clean/change the idle air control valve. in doing so, i'd like to replace the hose attached to the iac valve, but i'm not too sure what size of hose to buy to replace my existing hose for the iac valve.
here a link to the iac valve:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...air_valve.html
which hose would be the correct fit for the valve?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...heat_hose.html
can this be a fuel problem too since i'm constantly having my foot on the gas to smooth things out? i've read using some fuel injector cleaner and an additive to improve the octane in my gas tank, what are your thoughts?
thanks in advance guys! any and all thoughts are welcome.
aloha
#69
#71
88 with 128,xxx on it. Just bought yesterday for 500.00! White on white on white.............. you guys get the idea. With brownish leather interior.
Last edited by Chevsica; 03-26-2011 at 06:37 PM.
#72
174,800 miles on the 84 Wagon. Original engine and trans... still hauls the mail pretty good. Cruising on the highway at 65 today, someone came up behind me... since I left the overdrive off, I was already up in the power band, (4000 rpm) so I floored it... Bet they never thought an old 'grocery getter' could go from 65 to 80 that fast. His reaction was priceless. I love this car. It sounds wicked at 5000-6000 rpm with that Patriot Smithy muffler on it. I put that on because it was much cheaper than having another half-*** exhaust job done. Nice burbly idle too. Loud at 2000-3000 rpm, and quite quiet below or above that. Will have to make a video of this old Mad Max ripping down the road. She'll squeal the tires too, if they're the old ones... the new iPikes that I have on the rear are real sticky, can't get them to squeal. The front of the car lifts under really hard acceleration from a standstill or slow speed with the iPikes, rather than letting out a squeal. For kicks the other day, I counted the seconds for 5-60 and it turned out to be about 7 seconds. I dare say this Maxima would outrun the 05 Taurus that we have...
Sorry about the long post... don't visit here that often, so I tend to go on for a while.
Sorry about the long post... don't visit here that often, so I tend to go on for a while.
#73
There's a chance I could purchase an 87 with 63K on the clock. sixty-three thousand miles...they want 3 grand for it (dealer got it from original owners, senior citizens)...just have to convince the wife to let me part with my 97 GrandAm with 194K for it...wish me luck!
#74
There's a chance I could purchase an 87 with 63K on the clock. sixty-three thousand miles...they want 3 grand for it (dealer got it from original owners, senior citizens)...just have to convince the wife to let me part with my 97 GrandAm with 194K for it...wish me luck!
#75
yeah just a heads up it probably needs a timing belt, my bet is they didnt already do it and being 24 years old its probably so cracked up its ready to snap. if it snaps, you need a major engine rebuild or a new engine. so factor in another $800-$1200 to get the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and thermostat done
#76
#80
the engine on my 84 was looking pretty bad at 160k when pulled out and it was burning a lot of oil, my old gmc with 280k miles on it burns a lot less oil and faster too. But i did do a 115mph run on the wagon with the old engine/trans combo. Don't think truck could go faster than 85 without another gear. The trans out of the wagon might be going to live in 300z