I have recently started my Turbo project on my 2nd Gen Wagon Max. I've started to gather the needed parts for the swap. I have a friend that's owned numerous Z31's, 2 turbo Z31's, and 1 N/A Z31. He has a good collection of parts needed for the swap, and much knowledge on Turbo charged VG30E/ET's.

Im not planning on having the orginal build on the engine running for long... But once it blows, im gunna find a VG30ET, or rebuild the engine with a VG30ET Rebuild kit, which includes the lower compression pistons, and other goodies for the turbo engine.

I know many people have done the swap to a few 2nd gen's, but im not sure that many people have Turbo'ed the wagons. I might be the first =D

I have the Right side turbo manifold from an 88 Z31 Turbo (T3), This bolts up to the stock exhaust cross pipe perfectly.

My next step is to get the T3, and bolt it up, remove the stock e-fan, and install pusher fans to allow for clearance in front of the engine for the turbo.

Here is a parts list that I have made for the project:

- Stock Z31 Right Manifold = Free
- Rebuilt Z31 T3 Turbo = $75
- Z31 Turbo MAF = Free
- JDM S13 SR20DET FMIC = Free
- Z32 Fuel Filter = $18
- Custom Turbo-Back Exhaust = $100
- Aluminum Intake Tube = $50 ~ $75
- DSM Blow Off Valve = $10
- Z31 ECU = Free
- ROM Chip for ECU = $10
- Stock Z31 Turbo Injectors = Free

Those are the parts that I am using to get the car running, alot of the stuff my friend is giving me. Some other mods later:

- Wideband o2 sensor
- Romulator
- Greddy Electronic Boost controler
- RFL Blow off Valve or HKS Super Seuqential BOV
- Autometer Boost Gauge
- AFR Gauge
- Water/Methanol Injection
- Co2/H2o Intercooler Sprayer
- Lower Compression Pistons
- 420 CC Fuel Injectors
- Walboro Fuel Pump

Im aiming for about 7~8 pounds of boost with the stock internals, with an Intercooled setup. From what i've learned from the Z31 community, it is easy to achieve 14 ~ 16 PSI with Water/Methanol injection, Wideband O2 sensor, and the right fuell injectors and fuel map. My friend is running 14 pounds of boost on race gas, and 420 CC Mercades injectors, with a large Garrett turbo. The car hauls a$$, we pulled away from 14 second DSM's with ease.

So in theory, If a fully rebuilt VG30ET (in turbo stock from) with 14 - 16 PSI, you can push around 380+ HP to the crank, and maybe even more with built internals from JWT.

Once i get everything setup, im gunna tune the ECU with my friends Romulator, and a slightly modified stock turbo fuel map.

Does anyone know the drivetrain loss of the 5-Speed and Auto's in the maxima's?

Hopefully this gets done soon (im working on my friends SR20DET swap S13, and my Z31 Turbo at the same time), But i will document any progress I have made with the car, and post photo's. Let me know what you think.

 

well lemme kno and the 2 turboed 2nd gens can meet up or sometin

 

That would be awsome, I will let ya know when she is runnin.

I just got me Z31-T Injectors, and fuel pump.

Anyone know if the Fuel regulator is different on the NA and Turbo VGs? I have a regualtor too, and 2 extra fuel rails both loaded with injectors.

 

dont kno i just swapped the whole fuel rail apparatus

 

Pressure regulator for NA and Turbo are identical.

Instead of using the usual T3 how about using two smaller units, it'll give you less lag and potentially better performance ala BMW 335i?

regards
bob

 

I was thinking about that, but it's easier to do a single turbo for now. Plus, a little lag is fun sometimes, just love that feeling of the boost kicking in and throwing you back in the seat. There are some methods to remove lag.. but one of them is hard on the engine and turbo. That method is to retard the timing to the point where it will backfire and spool the turbo. There is a page on garrett's site about this method.

Nissan engineered the VG30ET to be lag free with a T3 turbo at 7 PSi. There shouldnt be that many issues with lag on a VG setup, maybe if you used twin T3's there would be some lag.

 

Twin T3's would offer a little lag...or you can do twin T25 or T28's like the Z32 does.

S

 

i dont think that ive ever seen a 335i in california...

 

I don't think you can get the same out put twin turbo'ing as a 335ci. I bet realistically on stock boost, you'll only see about 200-240hp vs. 300hp of the 335ci. Motors are both 3 liters, but your comparing a SOHC, port injected, and lower compression motor to a DOHC, direct injected and higher compression motor.

S

 

neo_densetsu post some pictures man...

 

I have a bunch of z31 turbo stuff from my old '88 shiro. I thought about trying this convert in my '87 se but my wife doesnt really need the boost!

 

Right now I have the Manifold bolted up. I found something weird, the studs were different on the 2 different manifolds, but there were 4 holes for the studs on each exhaust port, so i just moved the two that were on the right port closest to the back of the engine.

I accidently broke one of the studs, but I will talk to my friend that works as a Nissan Parts manager and get a new set of studs at like 70% off.

I need to get some pics, all I have done is the Exhaust manifold so far, but im about to remove the stock intake plenum and mill it down. Then attach the Z31T Fuel rail etc.. I need to go pick up a Z32TT fuel filter... much larger. But i will have a pic up soon, I might go out there tonight and snap a pic of the exhaust manifold, and all my current parts.


My T3 should be here the begining of this week, or next week. I allready got a BOV, complete fuel rails, Z31 Turbo manifold, Z31T fuel pump, and a Nice shiney "Nissan Turbo 3000" Plenum cover.

For a budget built like mine, it would cost too much to do a dual bank, parallel setup, it would be easier to use dual turbo's in a series, but not cost efficent. Besides, the 2nd gen is tight enough on space as it is, so a dual bank setup would require heavy modification, plus custom headers, plus more intake tubing and other stuff. I will stick with a single T3 for now. (btw, the Z32 uses only T25's stock, or so thats what i've heard from several people, the SR20DET (S15), and RB25DET uses the T28, the RB26DETT uses dual T25's, just like the Z32's VG30DETT, and Older SR20DET's (S13-S14) use a single T25).

Ok, here is a good question. What do I do for the alternator... I removed the A/C compressor, which was the pulley for the alternator, and a belt for the waterpump(?) which was connected to the A/C Compressors belt. Do I need to relocate the alternator to the A/C comp position and use a different pulley? I have a machine shop at my fingertips, so it's easy for me to make any mounts that I need.

 

 

hey whats in that nismo box.....the big one? nismo lsd?

 

Thats a Nismo 2-Way Mechanical Limited Slip Diferential, it's for a 240SX with original Open Diferential. That was accidently in the pic. I love that LSD, its noisy as hell tho.

 

Good luck with that... as long as your fuel supply is there the engine will actually take a lot of abuse. Gosh I love the VG's

The first thing that will go inside the engine will be the pistons. They'll actually handle quite a bit of power but will not handle any detonation so be absolutely sure to keep the fuel in check. If you can keep your fuel supply top notch, they'll easily take the abuse of 300-400 hp. There are quite a few guys pushing that kind of power on the stock internals to the wheels in Z31's.

The rods are forged so you really don't have to worry about those too much. If you want a decent upgrade for a very decent price, go with Z32 rods (N/A or TT, they're the same... heck even the VE30DE rods are supposed to have the same part number). Anyways, they're slightly meatier than the VG30E(T) rods but bolt right up. Note that if you do go that route you will need the floating pin type pistons ("W" block VG which, to be on the safe side, call 1988 and up).

Those rods are said to handle upwards of 600 hp without a sweat. For what you're wanting, they'll be overkill. If you want some extra assurance, just put in some ARP studs and call it a day.

The crank... it is cast and you'll likely find online people claiming power handling of only around 350 hp or so. This simply isn't true. To most of the Z31 community's knowledge, the only known people to break a VG crank is Electramotive, which had a VG30ET pushing 900 hp in race trim and over 1000 hp (I've read as high as 1,200 hp) in qualifying trim. (I know you didn't mention anything about the crank but I figured I'd put it in here just for everyone's knowledge incase it wasn't known.)

Low compression pistons... I take it this car is mostly going to be for a fun street car, correct? If so... keep the 9:1 pistons. Trust me, you will be much happier that way. You'll have much more low end response (a huge benefit on the street), potentially much better fuel economy, and possibly quicker spooling (some say the turbo doesn't actually spool quicker... either way, you'll have much better low end).

I also highly recommend getting a recirculation valve over the blow off valve. Being that the car uses a MAF, when the blow off valve opens you're actually releasing metered air. What happens is when you get back on the throttle that metered air is gone so you have too much fuel for the air that is going in i.e. its going to run very rich upon hitting the throttle. You'll notice it real bad if you get on the throttle, let off, then get back on it in the same gear. It'll bog for a sec then take back off. You'll also notice some stumbling when shifting into the next gear. Trust me, after having been through that headache before myself, I highly recommend going the correct way and using a recirc valve. If you're using the DSM valve like in you list, it is actually a recirc valve (has the hose barb on it). Just run a hose back to the intake piping and you'll never have that issue.

That's all I can think of at the moment on so little sleep. I might have more tomorrow unless you already know most of this then I can rest my fingers a bit.

Good luck most of all! I turbocharged my 3rd gen and have loved it since. Its been down for some time now while I've messed with other cars but I recently started buying some stuff for it and will have it back on the road very soon.


Z32 TT actually has twin T2/T25's from what I've read. That's a T2 turbine with a T25 compressor. That's tiny! (though there are some TT guys out there making some impressive numbers and track times on the stock turbos.)

 

Thanks Very much for the info.

If my engine were ever to go, i'd try and find a VG33 Block, and VG30ET Heads, throw in the VG30DE(TT) con rods (there is a VG30DE at my school that no one will miss... heh heh). I have heard that the 9:1 comp pistons give a much better low end response than the lower comp pistons. But with the higher compression, I will need to run supercooling: methanol/water Injection ( I have my hook-ups, $150 for the whole setup, thats cheaper than a FMIC for a 240SX). I've been thinking of running a FMIC if i can wedge it in the front, but there is no where to run the tubes, so I will be running a SMIC in the battery location, with a hoodscoop. If i did that setup, I want to make a Co2 sprayer for the IC, along with a water sprayer for the IC. From what i've heard and researched, this helps cool teh IC alot. A DSM SMIC would be ideal, and they are plentyful at the local junk yard.

My fuel system should keep up, i've heard that the Z31TT fuel system is good up to 12~13 PSI, then fuel cut kicks in. Im installing all the Z31 fuel components.

My friends Z31T with a huge turbo (i forgot what it was, but he refers to it as a "60-1", the thing is massive, biggest turbo you can fit in there without modifying the engine bay or mount location.) has bad low end power and torque, but once that turbo spools... DAMN! That car will walk over C4 and C5 Corvettes, just not C6 Z06's. His horsepower isnt so impressive as his torque numbers. Soon he will be getting a Wideband 02, and making a new tune for 20 PSI, currently he's running 13 to 14 PSI. he's running the VG30ET, with the lower compression.

I've heard of the cranks being bullet-proof. a VG30DE(TT) crank will take a serious beating, I know a guy with an 800RWHP Stillen 300ZX TT, he's running the stock crank.

Thats a good idea with the BOV. My friends Z has an HKS SQSV(?) wich is a non-recirc valve, he dosnt seem to have any issues with it, but he probably makes up for it with his tune. Im trying to get a DSM BOV currently, but right now I have the stock SR20DET BOV from a Jspec 180SX.

But as far as my tune for my car goes, I need to find a Z31 tune, with a 9:1 setup, running about 10 PSI. As soon as I can afford my own Romulator, Wide-Band O2 sensor, and a few Dyno runs, I will have my own tune.

 

As long as your fuel supply is there you won't need anything like that. Just get a regular aftercooler, run some higher octane fuel, and just make sure fuel and timing is tuned correctly and you won't have any issues. I believe there's a Z31 guy making upwards of 400 hp to the wheels on the 9:1 setup without meth injection. If you add the meth injection though you can crank stuff up even more. For what you're wanting to run though, it likely won't be necessary.


I believe they say the stock Z31 fuel system is good for about 300 bhp, but that's definitely pushing it to the very limits. Basing on the stock Z31 setup with a T3 they say the limit non-aftercooled is 10 psi and with an aftercooler roughly 15 psi. The stock T3 is very inefficient up that high... but would still be fun.

Yeah, those 60-1's are definitely huge turbos. The only downside to those is they don't really match up with the VG all that well. They'll still make some crazy power, as you can tell with your friend's setup, but they aren't optimal.

A really good match that I can find so far is the GT3076R. That one should support nearly 500 hp and would spool quite fast. Another good match is the T3/T04E 50 trim. That one will support about 450 hp and is just as efficient as the GT3076. It likely won't spool as fast due to the ball bearing setup vs. the journal bearing but would still be pretty good.

A very popular upgrade for even more power is the Holset HY/HX35. They're pretty much like a GT35 but with an even wider compressor map. Most of the setups I've seen spool them in the mid to late 3,000 rpm range. They're supposed to able to handle upwards of 600 hp or so. The biggest benefit... you can pick the things up in good condition for $300-$500 easily on Ebay. I actually got an HY35 in working condition for right under $180, sold it to do an HX35 instead for a project I'm working on, and got the HX for less than $180. It will probably need some seals but I can get a rebuild kit for less than $80 so its still an incredible deal.

Just some random thoughts.

I've actually head of someone supposedly making nearly 2,000 hp on the stock crank, but I've not seen any info to back that up. I wouldn't really be surprised... Nissan always over-engineers their stuff and that's why I love them.

Yeah, you should be able to tune the ecu to avoid issues like that. Really though, the only thing you get from a bov is the sound (which can be nice) but in the end could be more hassle than its worth. Another interesting thought about the recirc valves came to mind though. I think it was VW that had a setup where they claimed recirculating the air back to before the compressor inlet kept the turbo spooling between shifts. Definitely makes sence. I'm eventually going to test it out but I never seem to have time anymore so it will be a while.

 

Im on my Original 9:1 engine that has 197k miles on it... and im running 14-15 psi on pump gas. As long as you tune it to Low 11s or high 10s Air fuel ratio wise.. you have nothing to worry about. you tune it rich.. and you can more than make up for the powerlosses of it being so rich.... with alot more boost.


o and .. as for the 60-1.. ... Ive got a 62-1... it works great. but ive also got a Very different turbosetup than most VGs do.

 

To whom it concern:
I have been a fan of maximas for years. I drove a 84 SW> and fixed up five of the Sedans 3 manual one automatic and the S.W. a automatic. In fact two of my children drive newer models. My problem is I want to communicate with other maxima owners or somone looking for a 81-84 or used parts. If I can but I can't seem to get a thread started. I have tried several times. If I need to run a classified add I will. But if someone would call me after 400pm e.s.t. 423-7856527 or Email me how to get on the fourm
Sencerely choochoofritz

 

You can start your own thread after you have posted 15 times. The guys on this thread would probably appreciate it if you would continue on the 84 maxima on ebay thread or some other threads that you are interested in until you get your initial 15 posts.

Are all your other 1st gen maximas running?

 

Thanks for the Info.

For now i think im gunna run an Intercooler, since I can get one for free. To start out with, im gunna set the boost at 8 - 9 PSI to keep it safe. Im still trying to get my turbo, my friend has to track down his old T3, untill I get that, im at a standstill.

I've heard alot about the Holset turbo's. Great prices for the performance and durability. I know a guy who slapped a holset on a KA24DE(T)... hahah not anymore) Definatly not a turbo well suited for a 4 clyinder, but i've heard of the Z community using them with great sucess. I will keep the T3 for now, if the car shows anymore potential, I might upgrade to a larger turbo if i feel like custom-making some exhaust manifolds, to relocate the turbo to the battery location.

So I should be ok with the Stock VG30E, as far as holding up to the boost, im not planning on more than 300+ HP for now, i fear if i get much more than that the transmission would shatter into millions of peices. Im allready down 4 vehicles with none to spare.

I should get some done to the car soon, and post progress pics. Right now im trying to resurrect an old 87 200SX 2.0L as a daily driver, so my inspiration level has gone down.. (#*%&* 200SX!!! Has compression (or did earlier today?), Has good spark, good fuel pressure... but WONT START!!)

Very nice setup on your 3rd gen, Maxmaxima. Hows that 62-1 on Lag? 14 PSI is impressive on pump gas. My friend runs race gas at 15 psi in his 300ZX with the 60-1 (he just got a Wideband o2 sensor, so he can tune for up to 20 psi). How much power would you guess you are pushing to the wheeles? (or measured to the wheeles)

 

Thanks. The the 62-1 aint bad. i got full boost by at the latest 4500 in second, earlyer (3500)in 3rd up.. it start to build by 2-2500. Its defiatly a top end monster. Right now im reving it to 6900 with a 7000 rpm rev limiter. With the High flow manifold, Highflow Exhaust housing (1.32 a/r t04b), full 3 inch strait through exhaust, High flow intercooler, and high flow intake it still pulls hard uptop. Still stock heads and cams even. I plan on Upping the boost as soon as i get new BOVs, my current bosch ones start leaking around 14 psi.. thats why im limited to that. I want to up it to 17 or 18 psi on pump gas and someday to 20 on pump... Im not really worried about the engine at that point either. I figure if my brother can go to 23 psi on his 8.5:1 compression honda on pump gas without detonation. i can do it with my engine. KEEP IT RICH.. thats all i can say, at least when your in the higher boost, I aim for 10.9-1 air fuel ratio. Im ultimatly going for 500 whp. But thats going to take alot. Right now i estimat im at about 375-385 whp.

I made a new album of Current Photos and updates of my setup if your interested. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/maxmax...l%3as,17%3af,0

 

7000 RPM! DAMN! thats kinda high for a VG! My friend has the 60 trim 60-1 on his Z, it spools by 3400 RPM, full boost in 2nd by 4300 RPM's. I need to get a custom 3" exhaust made up for my max once i get the turbo on there. Im gunna Aim for 17~18 psi once I get a larger turbo, and better fuel system. Probably walboro fuel pump, and mercades benz 440CC injectors. My friend runs the 440 CC benz injectors on his Z, he's at 20 psi, and its still running really rich, we got a boost leak after running it up to 20 PSI, now it leaks at 15, I think it's his BOV gasket for the HKS BOV.

500 WHP is high, but very do-able with time and money, and that 62-1. Pertty much all Nissan Engines are stronger than any honda engine, espically the VG's, you can run twice the power of any honda engine, and on pump gas. Whats the minimum you keep your AFR to at full boost?

You have one of the Best Turbo setup's i've ever seen on a Maxima.

 

Sounds like your going to have a pretty nice setup to... 7000 rpm aint bad. Most dont rev it that high cause they dont make power up there.. With my big turbo and High flow everthing else. it still pulls hard all the way there.. It seems to peak around 6600-6700.. but i bring it a bit past that so that im starting that much higher in the next gear. The abolute leanest ill let it get in full boost is around 11.3:1. But aim for 10.9:1 just incase my intake manifold doesnt flow quite balanced.. you only need one cylinder to go lean to blow up an engine. And the power loss you may encounter from being that rich, can be Much more than made up with in more boost. Thats my theory and im stickin to it... heh..

 

Thats a good theory. The more boost, the leaner it'll run, so richen the hell outta it at high boost.

 

woohoo!! I finally found a tune for my max. I got a tune from an 85 300ZX-T, with stock fuel system, and T3 turbo running a base setting of 10 psi. This should give me a nice rich fuel mixture, for running 8 psi for now. Once I get the intercooler setup, I will kick it up to 10-11 psi and see how it runs. I got a few spare ROM chips, so i can burn a few differnt tunes, install a socket in my ECU for the chip, so i can swap the chips if i want to.

Still trying to get my T3!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRRRR!!!!! Anyone have an old T3 they want to sell, working or not? I think my best bet to find one is on the Z fourms, cause most of the Z peoples upgrade their turbo.

Getting Intake tubing, fittings, and T-bolt clamps.

Gotta do some work on my pulleys, so I can get the alternator to work, then im gunna throw on the Z31T fuel system. I hope the fuel pump will drop right in. The injectors should all fit right, as well as the fuel rail and regulator.