I posted this in the "Need new suspension" thread, but thought I might have better luck posting a new thread out here. I need to find out pretty quickly if there are any tricks to getting this thing out or if I'm stuck buying new control arms....

My 1988 Maxima failed PA State inspection recently for a bunch of stuff, mostly rotten bushings and a blown rear strut. I think the state is trying to force old cars off the road, they seem to get tougher every year.

Anyway, I already have the new strut inserts for the rear but forgot to order new boots at the same time. They're on the way and should be here Monday so I can put the back end back together.

The problem I'm having right now is the blasted front bushing in the transverse link (control arm). I think the outer metal shell or sleeve is so rusted into the slot in the control arm that it's "become one" with it. Looks to me like I'm either going to have to burn/cut the old ones out or just buy new control arms...I have hammered on them with a matching diameter socket and they won't budge. (The rear ones were easy...) Anyone ever had to replace these before? I found control arms at about $125 each, but I'm already up to almost $500 in parts (shop wanted over $1000, and I'm betting they would have run it up to more like $1500 if I let them do the repairs).

They told me my motor mounts would probably fail next year. My rack seems to be leaking a lot of steering fluid too. I think after this repair I'm going to have to retire from the Maxima repair business. As much as I love my 2nd Gen's it's getting to the point where it's not worth it any more

 

Hmmm....well, I guess I'm gonna have to pull the other one and take them to a shop to get them pressed out. I suppose that was the "obvious" answer, but I was hoping there might be another way. That's probably more efficient than trying to burn out the rubber and cut out the outer metal sleeve anyway.

 

I bought these same bushing for my car long ago (years) but haven't installed them yet. Taking them to a shop would be the easiest way to get them installed. Wonder what that would cost?

My idea was to get a threaded rod or long hex bolt (grade 5 or 8) that would fit in the bushings. Using washers , sockets and whatever .... then draw the bushing out by turning the nuts on the threaded rod. You may still have to heat the thing up if it doesn't move. If it does work (lol) then the reverse to install them. I guess if you have one of those huge metal bench vise ...you could rig something to work too.

I watched those car shows on Sat one time where they heated up a control arm with a torch and dropped in a bushing that had been in the freezer. I missed the part where they removed the old bushing but the install looked easy.

I know a picture would show how this would work but hope you understand my idea. Let us know how you get the job done anyway.

Al

 

The heating/cooling stuff makes sense. Since I only have one of the control arms removed so far, I haven't tried taking them to a machine shop to be pressed out yet because I didn't want to have to go twice. So this weekend I will remove the other one, and hopefully will have time to try heating the outer part (the arm) and maybe I can pour some cold water inside the bushing to shrink it a bit. Another thing I can try at this point, along the lines of what alllw86 suggested, is to put a large socket on the bushing and use a gear puller (the one I used to remove the ball joint) to push the bushing out.

If that doesn't work I'll take them to the shop, but that means another weekend before putting it all back together. Car has been up on blocks for about 6 weeks now...at least I just got a new motorcycle and the weather is starting to improve.

 

I spent some time trying to heat one of these darn things to get it out - all I got was stinking burned rubber. So, I'm taking them to a machine shop this week. If they can't get them out then I guess I'm stuck buying new control arms at about $125 each.

Managed to get the rear struts back in, just need to put the back seat back in and wheels back on.

In the meantime, I got the wrong size sway bar bushings (21mm)...too small Anyone know what the proper ID is for these? Looks like they should be 5-6 mm larger.

 

Got the bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in - cost me $75, the guy said they really gave him a hard time. Still beats the $250 it would have cost me to buy new control arms....maybe I could have gotten them cheaper but that's the going price I saw.

On another note, I mentioned that I got the wrong size sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings (the ones that hang it from the frame). The size that came by just selecting my car model and year were 21mm which is too small. So I ended up ordering a set of 28mm Energy Suspension bushings with greasable zerk fittings. Looks like I'll have to shave off a millimeter or two to get them to just close tight on the bar, but they should work.

Now I can put the car back together and hopefully pass inspection.

 

1988 Nissan-Datsun Maxima Sedan V6-2960cc 3.0L SOHC MFI (VG30E)

Just did mine a month are so age. Remover Control Arm, Use socket to Beat out Inner Rubber Bushing,Then Use Hack Saw,or Sawsal with thin metal blade to cut outer bushing,becarefull not to cut to deep into control arm.
use flat head scredriver to bend out. oil new one ,and start beating in!

Mine took me a couple hours . but when Done. only cost 17$

 

That was my original plan (well, thought I could drive the whole thing out) but couldn't get the rubber and inner steel bushing to come out either. So for me, it was worth the $75.

Got it all back together last weekend and the car passed inspection yesterday. Front end seems a little more responsive now, with the new stabilizer bar bushings and new ball joints. I used Sachs strut inserts on the rear...now the rear seems a little "bouncy" but not annoyingly so.

Next on the agenda - mechanic told me that next year the motor mounts are likely to fail. How hard are they to replace? I have a hydraulic engine lift....

Should probably do the timing belt then too, no? Got about 115K and don't think it's ever been replaced. I bought the car with 86K or so on it.

 

Do Timing Belt First!! and water pump at same time. When I did My Timing belt, the Idler pulley dust cover had popped off, and all the grease went all over the timing belt, I could see the inside of the pulley, all the bearing were ready to fall out,Inside the Timing belt dust cover, which would of sucked. Perfect Timing.When I did my timing belt I also Replaced water pump, thermostat, and rebuilt power steering pump.
you can get a power steering seal kit for like 12$ of the web. also replaced all those old funky clamps. What a difference,no fluid everywhere!!

 

Warning Newbie here! Did your car have the electronic suspension? I have one with it and can't find a donor car to swap the rear struts out. Any suggestions? Already got parts last year for the front so it's done. Thanks