Question for those that did a 1st gen L28 efi swap
Question for those that did a 1st gen L28 efi swap
ok so im currently swapping a l28 from a 1983 280zx into my 82 maxima. it this point im getting the engine harness connected but there are a couple of places im not sure what to do.
the first spot is the part of the wiring harness that runs along the firewall to the passenger side of the engine bay. it has the efi relay on it i believe but the other 2 connections im not sure what to do with (one of which is cut as pictured)

second one is on the intake manifold

does anyone know what id have to do with these or which ones are necessary for it to run? i only plan to run the efi untill i find some good carbs...
the first spot is the part of the wiring harness that runs along the firewall to the passenger side of the engine bay. it has the efi relay on it i believe but the other 2 connections im not sure what to do with (one of which is cut as pictured)

second one is on the intake manifold

does anyone know what id have to do with these or which ones are necessary for it to run? i only plan to run the efi untill i find some good carbs...
you technically didn't have to use the 280zx harness you could of just kept the Max harness ans just cut the ecu plug from the max ecu and just start pin matching for the new 280zx. that's what I did to my 77 810 ... as for the plugs make sure u have the tps, cold start injector, coolent temp sensor / cylinder head temp sensor, air regulator.. also the 280zx uses a different ingnition module then the maxima (z= 2pin. max= 4pin) ..
doing a bit of wiring diagram studying. this is what got,
the L/G on harness goes to Lg/R on maxima's fuel pump relay
L/R on harness goes to L/G on maxima's fuel pump relay
Y/B on harness goes to B/Y on maxima harness
B/W and Lg/W from battery go to G and Br on harness through fusible link
L/Y on harness goes to B/W that goes to coil
sound okay? i havnt started any harness cutting yet
the L/G on harness goes to Lg/R on maxima's fuel pump relay
L/R on harness goes to L/G on maxima's fuel pump relay
Y/B on harness goes to B/Y on maxima harness
B/W and Lg/W from battery go to G and Br on harness through fusible link
L/Y on harness goes to B/W that goes to coil
sound okay? i havnt started any harness cutting yet
i went ahead and cut/wired the harness together. fuel pump runs now. but i only get a single click when i try to start. is this happening because the safety switch that only lets your car start in park isnt wired up? since im going from auto to manual i havnt looked into how im supposed to switch that over yet..
the coil don't have much going on to get spark. also depends oh the ignition module u are using. u must use the 280z module since its only a 2pin module and the Max is a 4pin (2top / 2 side - side pins are for ecu advance or retard o forget)... if u are using the z module ..
its 12+ to the positive of the coil and ignition module and the negative/trigger of the module goes to the negative of the coil .. u should get spark. to start up u must hook up the ECUs crank trigger wire to the negative of the coil
... I'm telling u all this at the top of my head from my experience double check it with diagrams to reashor yourself ... also Google 240z distributor upgrade so u can see the new ignition module wire up.
hope it helps u out
PS. I believe the ecu trigger wire is yellow and by it's self
its 12+ to the positive of the coil and ignition module and the negative/trigger of the module goes to the negative of the coil .. u should get spark. to start up u must hook up the ECUs crank trigger wire to the negative of the coil
... I'm telling u all this at the top of my head from my experience double check it with diagrams to reashor yourself ... also Google 240z distributor upgrade so u can see the new ignition module wire up.
hope it helps u out
PS. I believe the ecu trigger wire is yellow and by it's self
tried, fail. D= im just gonna take it to a shop around here to see if they can heat it up or get it loose for me. yeahh i drove it in town today to the oil change place but they couldnt get it loose. theres a little play in the driveshaft and i need to get the trans mount on fully, its only on three bolts right now. i cant wait till its solid so i can really test it out! hahah
did it ever go into reverse? ... does it go into reverse when the car is off? if I does turn the car on in reverse and release the clutch slowly and see if it moves if it don't move tranny no good.... my tranny started clicking in reverse after i changed the gear oil. :'(
yeah reverse was fine before i took it out the 280zx. and it does go in reverse when its off. ill try. also, my oil meter on the dash isnt working and i dont think the temp meter is either... what do those connect to in the engine bay?
in that case make sure your slave cylinder and fork are deactivating the clutch properly .. had that issue when I did a 5 speed upgrade on my 77 . ends up being I had air in the clutch line. 1threw 5 where good but reverse no go since 1 - 5 have synchro's and reverse dose not ..
oil connects to sending unit by the oil filter it screwed to the block ... temp is on the thermostat housing its a one plug contaction ...
just check the clutch system .. bleed the line, or u might have a bad cylinder or slave cylinder... I'm saying cuz the clutch is not dissingageing probably ...
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