briefcase791

I recently bought an 87 maxima SE with 200k miles on it and it ran great when i got it. I did notice some surging when accelerating, but it wasn't bad and i started replacing things like spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and the fuel filter to weed out the problem (and freshen up the old parts since i have no idea when they were changed last) I even removed the throttle body and gave it a good cleaning, as it looked like it had never been cleaned.
It seemed that as soon as i replaced these things, the car wouldn't start. It cranks and i can feel it turning over, but wont actually start. I made sure i installed the fuel filter correctly btw. I did finally get it started after i whacked on the gas tank, which is a symptom of a bad fuel pump. I had to get to work that day, so i drove it to work and noticed that it hesitated a lot, and after it warmed up some it changed to where if i pressed the gas more than a tiny bit it would start to stall out. I managed to get to work and back, parked the car and ordered a fuel pump.
Well, i just replaced the pump last night and it fixed nothing. car still has trouble starting and it still stalls when i press the gas.

I am thinking it may be air related, and will be cleaning the MAF and EGR next, but I am not too hopeful. Has anyone experienced this? any advice??

TransAmBandit

My Maxima would do this thing where it wont idle sometimes after I deleted the air box and some emissions valves. I switched to a 300zx computer which sorta fixed the problem, but I also think it has to do with it being warmer. I was getting the shut off during the winter time after I did the intake.

Try seeing if there are any codes on the computer. The computer is under the pass seat.

briefcase791

Checked the computer, got codes 12 and 41. 12 seems to be the MAF, and 41 is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. An air/vacuum problem sound like they would cause my problems...
Is there an easy way to remove and/or test these component?

briefcase791

I decided to clean the AIC valve since i had an issue with it in my 22re, and now the car starts much more easily. I am unsure if it was the cleaning or the fact that i replaced the vac hose that was turning to dust. Now when i tap the gas, it still stalls out if i press too far, but now it makes kind of like a growling sound as the RPMs drop. It feels like i am making progress and will start taking out the MAF, but am wondering just how many parts i will need to clean/replace.

briefcase791

Hope its ok I keep posting in a row...making progress....
Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner spray and i am basically back to square one. Care starts OK, but still stalls out when i hit the gas too hard. It will let me rev up slowly, and it seems drivable and long as i pay attention and baby it. I doubt i should be driving it like this, but come monday, i will not have much choice. I REALLY dont want to have to replace the MAF since it is quite expensive, but the fact that it still is having issues and the ECU points at it tells me I will need to...
Any other suggestions as to what to clean/check/replace?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

if you want to rule out the MAF just get a junkyard one, should be cheap if you pull it yourself. or find someone with another 2nd gen or a Z31 that will lend you theirs for 10 minutes to see if that fixes it

briefcase791

It will cost $50 from the local Pick N Pull, but what guarantee do i have that it will work? I dont know anyone with a similar car unfortunately.
Other research is also leading me towards the crankshaft position sensor. That one i have no idea how to test without getting another one.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Check for spark, air and fuel! Then narrow it down!

londonflu

I had this happen on my 3rd gen. just the other day. Are you getting fuel coming from your exhaust in the form of white/bluish smoke?

londonflu

In my case I replaced 02 sensor, with NTK one made by NGK from Advanced and one bad injector.

briefcase791

I haven't noticed any blue or white smoke, but i am under the hood at night not looking for it, so i may be missing it. Ill look next time i get out there. I did end up driving it to work today and noticed that if i slowly revved up the engine to 2.5-3k RPMs, i could then stomp on the gas and it would go just like normal. I am also waiting on a TPS to arrive since mine shattered when i unplugged it. Not sure if it ever even worked...I didnt notice a difference at all when i unplugged it.

londonflu

My '87 SE, never had any problems of that sort. But my 3rd gen, has had issues in the past with fuel injectors. Sounds like one of your cylinders isn't getting fire. With the engine running pull each spark plug wire, one at a time, if there's a change in idle, that injector is good, if there's no change in idle, that's the culprit! (bad injector for sure) But before you start throwing money in her, if you haven't already change the timing belt. And the least expensive before the injector, is gonna be the o2 sensor, if it's bad it will send a bad signal to the ECU, and the ECU, being confused will try to compensate by dumping too much fuel, running rich and cause it to behave like that too.

briefcase791

The timing belt was done a few years ago according to the service records I got with the car. I recently found out there was a recall on these cars for the fuel injectors, and am pursuing my local Nissan dealership to see if hey will do the fix for me.
I have made huge progress though, i found out the big cause of my stalling issue was...spark plugs. I had just replaced them, but i bought the fancy Bosch +4 ones...i just replaced them on a hunch with NGK V plugs and it doesnt stall out anymore!!!
I am NOW experiencing a rougher idle, kind of like it skips a beat every few seconds and the RPMs bounce between 800 and 1100. It also lurches or surges in power when i accelerate until i get to around 3k RPMs. I will be visiting a local pick n pull to grab a MAF and crank sensor to swap out...Sound about right? and is there anything else i should get?

londonflu

Did you do the injector check that was suggested?

briefcase791

Ended up not needing to. I had replaced those Bosch plugs with NGK ones, but it still acted like a spark problem, so i removed the plugs to double check gap and all and realized on plug was cracked! I replaced it and now it idles smoothly and does not stall anymore!!
It still kind of surges when accelerating, but i got the main issue resolved. I will probably look at the O2 sensor next, since i was able to replace the MAF for $20 from pickNPull

vernk

sounds like you might need the head temp sensor also, which you might want to do next time you do the timing belt, and while your that deep replace cam seals, or if going to just replace the sensor it can be done but takes a few unconventional things

briefcase791

What makes you mention the head temp sensor? The timing belt was done in '07 and 35k miles ago, so I am unsure when i will need to replace that next...hopefully not too soon.

londonflu

Those symptoms indicate bad injector!

briefcase791

Yeah, i was kind of thinking that and hoping it wasnt....I even tried to contact Nissan about a recall on the injectors for my car, but its way past the window and they won't pay for it.
So since the idle is not rough anymore, how do i troubleshoot a bad injector? Should i just replace all of them since they were recalled anyways? that is going to be very expensive...

londonflu

I would just replace the problem injector; at least for now. Give your vin# to the dealer, and see if the recall work was done on that vehicle.

The injector problem was a safety issue, so I would write a letter to Nissan corporate office, as well. However I don't recall a injector recall on my 1987:

I did an inquiry here though and here's their reponse: NissanConsumerAffairs@my-nissan-usa.com

10/24/2012


Case # 9736715
VIN # JN1EJ01F2RT507163


Dear Dwayne Fluellen,

Thank you for contacting Nissan North America, Inc. and allowing us the opportunity to assist you.

A review of our records indicates that the above-referenced vehicle is not currently involved in any recalls or service campaigns.

If you have any further questions or concerns, please call us directly at 1-800-647-7261.

Sincerely,

Nissan North America, Inc.



Anna Kharinina Arquion
Consumer Affairs Representative
Nissan Consumer Affairs

briefcase791

I called Nissan and they said there were no open recalls for my vehicle, but they had trouble finding my VIN in their system.
This link is what was shown to me that mentions a recall for late 80s maximas.
http://www.az-zbum.com/fuel.injector...e.campaign.pdf

I will definitely email them to see if i get a different response, and to ask if anything had been done for any recalls at all.
As far as replacing an injector, i dont even know which one(s) is bad. If i do the test where i unplug one at a time, i am sure each one will cause the idle to stumble since it idles nice and smooth currently.

londonflu

I'm not sure with the 2nd ge. since I didn't have that issue. But I did find this while searching:

Originally Posted by gen1 View Post
I had similar problem with my 1984 Maxima.

It turned out to be the cold start injector was not turning off.

Start your car, the cold start injector should turn off after about 30 seconds.

If that doesn't happen you get extremely rich condition happening revs drop and it is difficult to keep the engine running.

When you disconnect the cold start injector the engine should run semi-normally.

Of course you still have to discover what is keeping the cold start injector turned on; water temperature switch, thermotime switch, auxillary air regulator, ECU.

vernk

stalling out a bit when you press the gas, and surging, thats how mine was acting, but my ECU also had the code to go with it, I drove for a while with it bad and just delt with the hard starts and dying out when I stepped on the gas, and the surging till I figured out how to change it with out having to pull the cam pullys and back timing belt cover....

vernk

from a 85 but should be the same for yours

http://s107.photobucket.com/user/ver...71357071174925

londonflu

I got rid of mine, it had too much rust to restore; that was the plan. But had no problem selling it, the first person that test drove it bought it. I have a 3rd gen SE/VE now, which have coil packs & injector rail. But you should be able to disconnect the plug at the top of them to test.

vernk

you can use a long screw driver like a stethoscope and you should be able to hear them tick while the car is running, also check the ohms. if you haven't messed with the connectors before there is a metal clip that you want to use a small screw driver to take off then the plugs should pull right off...

btw the recall was for the wiring harness and injectors, I think it was only for the late 86 early 87s....I had it done on my 87 back when I bought it (long gone to the junkyard due to rust and bad tranny bearings) I should have kept the parts but was like "when am I ever going to own a VG again" I'm on my 3rd VG since then..... what the cars that had the issue would do is injectors would stay open and flood, causing black smoke (unburned fuel) I think most of the one that were effected would have had the recall done or burned down by now, but wouldn't hurt to go over you wiring harness and make sure non of the wires are rubbing and or shorting out, and since the injector is controled though the ground, you can use a muti meter to find out which wire is ground, and then track it to make sure there are no places the wire has been rubbing and shorting and causing the injector to open when it shouldn't and ruining the injector since they are not ment to be held open



yea the VE is closer to a VQ then a VG kinda a baby step only used for a couple years in one car....

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

TPS adjustment possible...

briefcase791

ECU is throwing cod 41, so i am working on replacing the head temp sensor. My temp gauge i the dash doesnt move from the far left/cold position. would the faulty sensor cause this? It will be another week before i get the part and time to to fix the sensor...

vernk

the temp gauge and the head temp sensor are different, the head temp sensor is the one that is a pain to change unless you pull the back timing belt cover off....... it's the one that is under the distributor

but the fun starts with braking stuff

what you have to do is bust off the connector from the old sensor after you disconnect it (that way you can get a socket on it) now for the new one. You are going to want to pick up a deep well socket that you don't mind chopping up, you will have to chop the end off so that it fits into the area behind the timing belt cover, having a swivel extension will be helpful. Once you have the socket cut down so that you can get it on the old sensor when it is in place you will more then likely have to shave the connector on the new one down so that it fits into the socket. When you shaving the new one down becareful not to brake the connector off or damage it. I had to take mine down to just past where the pins start, the lock on the connector should still be fine and the pins still long enough. When you go to put it in becareful not to cross thread since the head is Al, best to try and start it by hand, the sensor it self is loose inside the locking nut (or whatever it is called) so it can be kinda a pain, once you get it started and down enough to get the socket on be sure that the extension isn't poking though and hitting the connector tighten it down, you don't have to be super tight, there are no fluids that run though the area, it just sits against the wall of combustion chamber to get temp.

or order up cam seals, front main, timing belt, water pump, thromostat, and make a weekend of it, last time I took a VG down that far it was 20 hours (fixed a few other things on the way) and that was on a pathfinder with way more room to work, and I have done it a timing belt on a VG a few times.....



as for your temp gauge, does it move at all?



oh hey after I have that all typed up, 41 is fuel temp, which isn't on my car not sure if yours has it, but if it does it's on the pressure reg I think, anyways I will leave this...... that way if you ever get the dreaded code 13......

vernk

quick question, how much gas is in the car and how long has it been in there?

briefcase791

The gas is good and new. The car is my daily driver so i keep clean gas circulating through it. I did a fuel treatment as soon i bought it also.

I have to replace the water pump as well as the head temp sensor now, so i will be all up under the timing cover. I may just go ahead and do the T belt and cam seals while i am in there.

briefcase791

Forgot to answer this, no it does not move ever.
Also, I looked on the FPR, but there is no sensor or any wires on it. The sensors i ordered are called coolant temp sending units. One has one connector (for the gauge) and the other has 2 (for the ECU) Since i will be in there for the water pump, i shouldnt have TOO much trouble switching those out. How hard are the cam seals to change?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Clean all your connectors such as TPS, water temp sensor, injectors, MAF, grounds, solenoid air valves! Check all your hoses for their condition! Check ignition for proper timing as well as condition of parts! Read your plugs....then come back!

vernk

well once you get your engine to this point



they are easy just be sure not to damage the seat prying them out, if you have a impact it will make taking the cam pullys off a lot easier, if there is even room to get it on the bolt, be sure to leave the belt on till you get the bolts loose, that way you have less of a chance of raming a valve into a piston if you slip holding the cam, plus helps keep everything in time..... yea once you get down to the cam seals (you will have the back timing belt cover off) the head temp sensor is easy with a deep well socket....