Thanks to the great wealth of information available on this forum, I was able to "cure" the VTC noise and low-end performance problem my 1992 SE (automatic) was having. So I feel it's only fair to pass on these details plus a few extra--

I bought the car used from a family member a few years ago with around 80K miles. The car was already exhibiting the VTC noise issue but the performance and acceleration were still very good. The driver side CV joint was noisey so I replaced it right away. A remanufactured axle assembly cost me about $65 and the installation was a fairly easy job. I decided to ignore the VTC issue after concluding it was more an annoyance than a serious reliability issue.
The passenger side CV joint started making noise soon after and I replaced it too. In both cases, the rubber boot had failed and this probably led to the joint failure.

Now the car has 115K miles and was noisey under almost all conditions. So, I decided it was time to fix the VTC problem. I visited the two local dealerships and played dumb, just to get some financial motivation to fix it myself. Dealership #1 told me the VTC spring replacement cure was typically just a temporary fix, in the range of 20-30K miles. That their customers had mixed results with this approach. However, the replace-the-gears-also solution was their favorite but it would run in the neighborhood of $1,900.

Dealership #2 said to fix it if I planned to keep the car because something catastrophic could happen, like the timing chain jumping a sprocket. Otherwise, I should sell it. They said the repair costs $2,100 because two $500 gears have to be replaced. I checked the price on the spring do-it-yourself kit and it was about $40.

Next I did some websurfing and ran across this forum and the references to the VTC electrical shunt to ground "solution." It took perhaps five minutes to splice and solder in the wire jumper. I've been driving it for about a week under various conditions and it's 100 percent improved. There's just a little bit of noise on start-up for the first five seconds or so.

After reading some of the other forum posts, today I tweaked the timing VIA the cam position sensor and the overall performance is greatly improved, especially at lower RPM's. I didn't bother to put a timing light on it, just marked the current position of the sensor and then rotated the alignment mark about 1/10 of an inch clockwise. There were no apparent problems with this adjustment such as starting difficulty or idle problems. I don't know yet if there will be any cold weather issues but I'm not too concerned since it's so easy to adjust back if necessary.

I was also having a few issues with the shifter selector lever that was easily fixed by replacing the two plastic bushings that others have discussed here.

Thanks again for the great Maxima forum!

--SAM

 

Now that is what I'm talking about. Someone that does some research gets good results. Glad to hear how well the car is running and that we could help you out .

 

wow! An intelligent newbie! horray to you for studying and reading and solving your problems!

 

Glad you fixed it!

 

Still just a band-aid fix though! You're top end power is still lacking even though it's not too noticeable. Mine used to hit a wall around somewhere around 4500-5000rpms (I don't remember exactly where). The VTCs get sloppy when they fail and allow the cam timing to shift back and forth very quickly, which will really affect the top-end power these engines can make.

After I put new VTCs in, my VE SCREAMS up by redline. VE engines have more top end power than 4th gen VQs

 

So at what RPM do the VTC engage anyway?

 

They actually engage at low rpm to bump up low end torque. The VE was built as a high-rpm screamer stock, and the VTC's were designed to boost the low end. BUT, if the VTCs go bad, the intake cam timing will advance/retard real quick and will reduce power ALL OVER the rev range, but it will be most pronounced at low and high rpms.

Do a search, this is NOT a new topic. There is LOTS of info out there

 

That's right grounding VTC's will kill the low end torque, but not the natural torque peak around 4000rpm.

 

I have also grounded my VTC. The only difference I have noticed so far is the pull when VTC kicks in is lost. I also have the noise the first two seconds after the engine has started, but it will stay quiet until I shut it down. But overall, I don't think the car's power has dropped, well maybe just a little bit. I'm not really picky and I can only say how I feel. And I have no problems getting the power to enter a freeway entrance or passing other cars.

 

I was careful to claim only to have fixed the "noise" problem by grounding the VTC solenoids. I would expect to have some level of performance compromise by defeating the VTC feature/functionality.

I adjusted the timing also and the performance is greatly improved versus pre-VTC-grounding. I haven't observed any low rpm torque issues but I also don't have a VTC-enabled control car to use for comparison. Certainly the price can't be beat...

--SAM

 

Nice work Sam!

 

This is where I am at right now as well - about to do what you have already done SAM - I am going to be doing the grounding method to bypass the VTC's for the time being.......

What I'd like to know is how you adjusted the timing to gain back some of the power that is claimed by many to have been lost??

I'd like to do all of this at the same time I try the VTC ground.

Can anyone point me to the right thread/post if one is posted? I can not find it and I really don't know what to look for specifically to return a good search.

thanks much!

 

tothemaxxx--

This link provides good photos of the cam timing position sensor.

http://www.geocities.com/craigbraceg...ng/timing.html

Here's all I did to adjust the timing (and low-end performance issue), once the VTC solenoids were shunted:

***I didn't bother to put a timing light on it, just marked the current position of the sensor and then rotated the alignment mark about 1/10 of an inch clockwise.***

By the way, I've since added a couple thousand miles and the car is still running great and the gas mileage is greatly improved.

Good luck, it's a real easy job!

--SAM

 

so havin bad VTC's could possibly be why i can't reach top speed on tha odometer anymore??? car peaks at 125 and no more...when i first got it, i could reach 145 wit a lot of pedal still left, but not anymore!!

 

Hey thanks for the prompt link SAM I apprecaite it!

And as for going 125 versus 145, is that really a problem??

 

Just tried shunting my VTC's and I must have done something wrong. When I cranked the car back up '92 SE the sproket noise persisted byt the engine was barely running, and idling very low. The battery light glowed and the brake light would not turn off.

Took the car to the dealer and the alternator had to be replaced. Coincidental, I don't know but would think not.

Would some explain to me EXACTLY which of the two wires were shorted, and how you shorted them.

Thanks a million

 

Hopefully you referenced the VTC grounding section of:

http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gte671n/mymax.html

pay close attention as the rewire instructions are on another page than the description ( link at TOP ).

I followed step by step, even used the same parts from Radio Shack and it worked exactly as described. Now I start up, 1-2 seconds of chatter and it's gone.

Sounds like maybe you did grab the wrong wire....... you had a 50% chance That may explain the alternator going, current may have been flowing somewhere it shouldn't......

From my memory you want the yellow/green wire and ground it. Double check the website.

Hope that helps,

Brandon

PS - undo what you did ASAP