hli

My 91 Maxima started and seemed to run fine to the store. On the way to the store I had the headlights, fan, and wipers on.
When I parked I noticed the power windows was slow closing.
Returning 5 minutes later the car would not start. When the key is on the "ON" position I normally see all the indicator lights on, but this time the battery light was off while the rest was on as normal.
ok, bad battery? The battery was old and I was planning on replacing it anyway. Got a jumpstart and started heading home.

On the way home with the headlights, fan, and wipers on; I noticed the clock and dash would be very dim and the fan and wipers extremely slow when the car is at a stop light and be a little better when traveling at higher speeds.
When I got close to my home in the city with the frequently stop and goes along with the slow speed the car stalled. I was unable to start the car again and the headlights were the only thing that still worked.

Is this normal behavior when the battery is died? Did I over-tax the car with the headlights, fan, and wipers on while I returned home? Was I mistaken once the engine is running after the jumpstart I could have made it home (~10 miles) with the light, fan, etc on?

I pushed the car home and replaced the battery and the car started fine.

So I bewared about the charging system?

-hli

dmontzsta

iTrader: (8)

yup

cmac95gxe

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like an alternator problem to me.

klymkow

Sounds like the alternator to me.

Quick test: with the car running, check the voltage across the battery terminals. If it's only about 12volts, the alternator isn't putting anything out. The car is running only on the battery and will soon die again.

A good alternator should put out about 14-14.5 volts with the engine idling. Shouldn't vary very much when revved either.

Tim

wyskibumm

Yeah, get that alternator. Also i'd highly recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting yourself an optima battery. I got the 34Red top, and this thing is sweet, its not gunna give you problems. Thing costs over 100bux but its worth it.

karguy

You can use a DC voltmeter to do a quick check of the alternator. Put the meter on DC volts, 15 volt range. Attach meter negative lead to battery negative terminal, attach meter positive lead to battery positive. You should read a little over 12 volts. Start car, you should see meter voltage rise up as battery surface charge builds up.
The alternator normal regulated output is 13.6 to 13.8 volts. If you get anything than the regulated voltage range take your car to a parts place and let them check it out (I used AutoZone but I am sure other stores do it as well for free). Lower voltage usually indicates diode problems, probably new alternator.

dmontzsta

iTrader: (8)

Hmmm...my alternator just went out on the auto and the 5 speed, within 1 month of eachother. And the brake and battery lights would come on and stay on letting you know the alternator is bad. The fact that he got a jump and it worked, leads me to beleive it is the battery.

max95q

iTrader: (10)

Thanks guys found my answer here too. I was driving in the rain and noticed that there was squeeling of my drive belts which have never happened before and were just replaced with my engine being rebuilt. Anyway turns out when my engine was rebuilt they forgot to put back on my splash guard at the bottom of the engine which when going through large puddles allowed lots of water to get to the belts and my Alternator, my lights dimmed, wipers got slow, and the a/c was on too but it only happened when the a/c was turned on it would drop to like 12 volts then it went below that and my brake light on my dash came on. Well I went to the shop told them about what happened and I found my stuff after they said they didnt have it. Anyway after that ever since that every time I turn on the a/c the current drops when at idle but when driving then it goes to 14 volts. So now I know my Alternator is going bad now. Thanks again for all of you guys help. I had a feeling that couldve been it. Now that just means more money to spend, doh!!! But thanks.

hli

I took the car to Sears and had them check the alternator.
They said the alternator was fine and they believe it is the wiring.
Any ideas on some additional diagnostics I can perform before I take the car to my nearest nissan dealer to repair? Since the car seems to be running from on a charged battery there can't be that many wires to check, right?

Don't know if this is related to the "bad wiring". Before I replaced the battery my high beam would not work on the passenger side but the normal headlight would work. After the battery change it became the opposite, high beam works but passenger side headlight would not.


Strange!

- hli

Taegost

Checked the battery with a tester a couple weeks ago, battery tested around 13v and about 14.8 when running...
I was having issues with voltage regulation too (I believe) because my HU would dim WAY down on bass hits, along with the inside lights (Not headlights)
When I put my system in last night (Amp+Sub) that issue has almost totally gone away unless I CRANK the volume way up... I'm pretty sure it did it on my old alternator too... But I might bring it in to get it tested tho.