need to find a bell housing and i'll fix it.

 

But what about the main shaft, it's associated gears and springs, etc?? I know the bearings and seals come with the rebuild kit, but what about that other crap???

 

i have all of the internals minus the input shaft bearing and seal, and two differential carrier bearings. i have a good back case too. bell housing is just messed up.

 

So then, knowing that the only part of my tranny/clutch that is good is the rear half of the case ( ), what other parts would I have to source other than the front half/bellhousing??

 

1 of 301548 1 Input Bearing, Front 1985-96 $21.02
2 of 301718 2 Differential 40mm X 68mm 1985-90 $22.22
1 of 301070 1 Front Input 43mm O.D. 1985-96 $2.50
1 of 75551 1 Axle, Right 33mm X 59mm 1985-96 $4.48
1 of 87552C 1 Axle, Left 39mm X 59mm 1985-96 $12.96
then i would need to sell my tranny stuff for about $150
so the total cost comes to $213.18
and that should do it.

 

NOOO don't go auto..more trouble down the road. Yo see how much trouble they give everyone here. You just got a bad rebuild. I put my own bearings in and it runs great. You have so much into your ride and I KNOW you love it..you wouldn't be here if you didn't right? Honestly, just drop 750 on a used tranny if that's the case. Either that, or try another ride..I've heard good things about 240sx and even the smallish 200sx's. If I had to drop my 3rd gen now, I'd probably go oneof these or with a !gasp! Honda Prelude..the newer models. Those cars are sweet. 2.2 VTEC is a nice peaky powerplant. Turbo that jammy and your talking business. BUt as long as my 3rd gen vg holds out, I'm on track to turbo and cryo the hell out of it!Good luck, you've got some decisions to make.

 

I think i have the same probs nissmo is having, I have a 89 nissan max SE manuel shift and my mechanic said that my bearing in my gearbox are going bad!! Not bad enough that I can't shift but it is noisey accelerating thru the 1st and 2nd gear powerbands. I have been given 700 for my overhaul and i have put up a posting askin the same questions??? Really in my opinion better off keeping ya trani and just rebuilding that way you know what type of driving and conditions the trani has gone thru!!! Unlike going to a junk yard and just getting another you may come full circle right back to the same problem??? Just my thoughts on it!! Let me know?? Yea man, I feel the same way money is tight and 700 to 800 is still for me also!!! I guess there is light at the end of the tunnel

 

The input shaft bearing sucks on these things. It's a big ball bearing. I replaced all the bearings in my tranny before it got so bad that it caused destruction as it has for some..lucky me. It cost me about 200 for parts and a week of labor, but it's all good now. I think the best thing to do would be take it off the road, put the trans on a bench and go at it. It's not as bad as people might think. Once I get my suspension ready for high HP turbo, I am going to get a usable but rebuildable core. Basically the cheapest used tranny that turns in all gears with no cracks in the case. THen I'll tear it down and build it right. Believe it or not, the CHilton manual does a pretty good job of detailing the procedures. Take a look at what's involved before you rule it out. Like a big oily puzzle. Have the whole thing cryo treated (especially that input bearing). I spoke to a few guys from cryo shops in various parts of the country and came to this consensus..If you do the cryo "dip" you are askinig for trouble. The best is the 24 hour cycle..brings the materials down to -325 very slowly, hold, then brings back up slowly.
nismo1989..what cryo treatment did you get?
I figure I get one of those 350 rebuildables, 400 for parts (all new bearings synchros and seals, assuming the gears are good) and a few hundred for the cryo, should be good to go for about a grand..and that should be the END OF THE TRANNY ISSUES..I hope. BEst of luck in whatever route you take. PEACE

 

male:
The treated components were froze in an oven-like thing. The bearings weren't treated, though. I don't think you're supposed to do that. Might not be a great idea, I'm not sure. Consult someone on that.
It's unfortunate that it really gave no warning before it went. Last winter, Justin (Badaxxima, remember him??) thought he heard some noise when my input shaft was spinning. The noise seemed to go away, though, and I kind of forgot about it. Well, August 17th that stupid noise that I hadn't heard in 8 months kicked me in the a$s, and I've missed my ride more by the day since...

 

I've researched this a bit and found that when the treatment cycle is done slowly, usually a 24 hour process, dimensional stability is insured. Things like bearings and other components that have critical tolerances are good for treatment as it will extend their life sigiificantly. As we have both experienced, bearing failure sucks royally, so treating is a good thing. there are various types and methods of cryo, but it''s more the temperature cycle that makes all the difference..this is something that most palces refine over time. The one kind of treatment you never want is the dip type, where the material is submerged in liquid nitrogen..I've heard bad things about it, as it causes the brittleness we had discussed in the past. But from what I can tell, the processes wich are non-contacting and have an established temperature cycle are VERY beneficial, more than I knew possible. It seems that all these clains are legit, and I hope they are, because I don't want my tranny to be the thing holding me back from building the 400hp maxima I always wanted. THe only other option is a custom tranny. I've seen them..six speed for FWD. BUt that is labor intensive and expensive to say the least. Bu if I have to do it, I will. For now I'll stick with the cryo, LSD and a good precion rebuild. That should be fine. If those little drag civics use stock trannies, why shouldn't i be able to? I will DEFINATLEY build a spare and store it. Just in case. Now all I need to do is get my funds in order!

 

I think I'm done with the Maxima. The warranty I'm going to be getting from the tranny shop is a transferrable 5 year warranty, so it looks like when it is fixed I'm going to slap a For Sale sticker on it and sell it. I'll throw the cash down on a new car, and be done with it. I'm thinking: '02 Hundai Tiberon VG or '02 Sentra SE-R Spec V. Any suggestions??

 

That hundai isn't a bad deal at all. Cool loooking too. I heard mixed reviews of the sentra. I heard the Celica is an awesome drivers car. And of course, the late model 240SX is sexy. Not interested in tuning anymore, Huh? I can say from experience the late model preludes are great sportscars too. My girl has one and it is SWEET. I love it. TC or nitros that thing and it will spank most others on the road..handles great too. But if you want a keeper, the Hundai has the hands-down best warranty. My personal pick is the 240SX. BEst looking late model sportscar on the road in my opinion.

 

Oh, I'm still in to tuning. It's in my blood and I've been doing it since I could walk. I'm just done tuning a 13 year old FWD import, that's all . I'm going to start building an Integra (hold the laughter, please) next winter, but I'm wanting to get back in to muscle cars for a minute...

The Tiberon seems like it would be a fun daily-driver, that's all. I've come to the conclusion that when your drag-strip lover is also your way to work and back, you're setting yourself up for disaster.

 

Integra's are cool..GSR? I probably mentioned my buddy's Hybrid GSR Turbo Civc..it was in a word..SICK. SO fast man. Even before the turbo, the GSR with an ECU upgrade, HKS exhaust and CAI this thing pulled HARD all the way to 8300 rpm. Seriously, I hope this is the engine you are using. Better yet the H22. I like musclecars too..that's how I got hooked on speed. Big burley V8 engines are cool..just brute force ya know..I like the tight precision and big hp/liter potential of imports. Not too many V8 chasis that thrill me. I'd go with an LS1 Camaro if anything. RWD is nice..but there is aways the z-car...Wheelstanding Z31 anyone?

 

I have a friend who has a strip-down 2 door teg, forget which model, but he blew the engine in it. Never been wrecked, just a really bad paint and no engine. Said he would give it to me for $1500. $1800 and he would throw in the Fiber Images CF hood. I'm thinkin I'll talk him down to $1500 with the hood, slap in a new engine and supercharge it. Jackson Racing Supercharger with chip, AEM CAI, Thermal Dev. cat-back, AEM fuel pump with regulator, LSR coil-overs, AEM front and rear big brakes, SS lines, ZEX... that ought to be a good start. Gut the interior and 1year/$10,000 later it might actually be fast.

 

Well, for now I'm keeping the 89 but I am going to get that 90 black SE. I drove it and it was really good. Needs brake work (no problem) and the rear spoiler will have to go. It also has a few minor dings and such but no rust. I'll fix that stuff in no time . However, it's been a long time since I've driven a stock VG and it felt really slow. It shifted fine and everything, but it didn't have the immediate pick up my other one had. Is this pretty normal for a stock VG auto?? I can't tell because my other VG hasn't been stock for 2 years.

 

you'll notice a big difference going to auto alone. i know i noticed a huge difference between my gxe and se.

 

Okay, that's fine. I'm going to do this one up a little different. It's going to be more of a looker than a performer, ya know? I think I'll shave the trunk and stuff, put on a kit, maybe bimmer lights...

I may want to sell my Skyline spoiler. Anyone interested in a JDM R34 adjustable carbon fiber Skyline spoiler... ??