Yesterday I had my thermostat changed due to overcooling. After the mechanic put it in, he asked me about the original one and told me that the new one is a 170deg unit (I got it from Advantage Auto Parts, it's a Stants brand). He said it'sot really suitable for the Eastern N. Carolina climate, this time of year. Said I should have gotten a hotter one, that the one that it replacd was 190deg. Didn't know that there was more than one available. Now the engine temp gauge gets to where it's supposed to be as quickly as it used to, but my passenger heat acts funny. Turned HOT full while driving it's OK, though it could be hotter. When I stop at the light, and idle for a few minutes, the air turns cool again until I start diving for about 30 seconds. Is the the product of a cheap thermostat? Should I have gotten the dealer part? The manager of the auto parts store said that at 198,000 miles, that is the best choice for my car. I don't believe him. What should I do?

 

Probably when your idling, the thermostat might be closing. This will block the warm coolant from heating up your heator core, thus no heat. But check your coolant level first to make sure it topped off.

 

You may have air in your cooling system. Last weekend I drained and refilled the system. It took a couple of heating/cooling cycles for the system to completely refill (the system "sucks" in coolant from the overflow tank as it cools). Even venting the system, from the bleed on the top of the block didn't get all the air out. So check the level in the overflow tank, and keep it from dropping too low. The heat didn't work right until most of the air was out.

 

There should be a "vent" somewhere on the top of the engine for the cooling system. Unscrew it and it allows the air to escape while filling the coolant up. Works much better than your way. For the VE, it's right where the fuel pressure regulator is.

 

I did pull out the air vent bolt when filling it. There was still air in the system. ? I just refilled the overflow tank a couple of times.

 

Actually the overflow tank is above the Max line. I will try the air bleed valve thing. I am noticing that the interior is warming better, but still not to my satisfaction, by a long shot.

 

Okay guys, I did the air bleed thing. I heard a psssst sound when I opened it. It felt good. Afterward, I noticed a small difference (psychological?). Now, late Christmas eve were getting ready for a 400 mile drive to visit family. I go wash the car. I leave the engine idling so the interior will be warm when I get back in from the cold. I reapply Rain-X expecting some precipitation on the way. Whole process, about 45 mins idling, all the while it's holding interior heat beatifully. While I'm finishing drying laundry at the laundry center, I run in the house. Go inside for about 5 mins (engine still idling), and when I get back out to the car I hear something I've never heard before. The engine fan turns on!! And boy is it LOUD. I jump into the cockpit, look at the gauge and the damn thing is about to overheat!! After cooling for about 15 minutes and an appropriate amount of swearing, I call some friends over, who quicky identify where the quiet hisss is coming from along with the leak that's leaving coolant in my parking space. Seems as if it's coming from the water pump. The top hose is also depressurized. Yep, I can go for that. Now I need a new water pump. Where the hell I am going to get one at 11p on Christmas Eve?

 

that sux....I hope you found a way to get it fixed, or had another car to use for Christmas.....I have a good water pump from my 92 SE that I still have from when I replaced my motor....coulda had Santa bring it to ya...hehe....well if you still need a water pump, e mail me.

 

on our cars when u turn the heat on the ac clutch engages and when ur idling the cooler air is more present... why is this nissan and most of the other cars like toyota incorporate both the ac and heat to go together cause the heat would be too hot and possibly fog the car interior up
this the bull=-==0l i got from the dealer.... u can always unplug the wire attached to the compressoe clutch i do that every winter

 

That's an idea, except I've never experienced this prior to getting the work done. I have always had HOT heat. I still have the leak. The other day, I heard a nasty sound. Sounded like it was coming from the area where the water pump is located. The car also smells like something is burning. I am not driving it until I get it fixed. I think I'll hold the shop responsible, the more I thing about it. This is exactly the reason I don't like anyone working on my car. Only if I was more competent.

 

I get the parts for the job (water puump and belts including timing belt) at the base parts store (I'm in the Marines), and quickly determine that my skills are no match for the job (replacing belts, moving hoses and doing timing). I take the car to a nearby bases' service station on a Wednesday. On the way there, the car nearly overheats. It's leaking profusely. I make a quick stop at a gas station and fill with water and continue with the trip. 20 minutes later, I arrive. I drop the car off, and the mechanic stars on it a little after 8a that next morning. Calls me around 12noon to say the car is ready.
When I get the car back, I start it and immdiately notice that the fan is running high speed. Mechanic says that he noticed it too, but didn't think much of it. I decide to drive the car home. No problems so far, except for that annoying sound. Go all weekend with it like this.
Come Saturday, I notice that the car really sound funny and is not giving me the immediate power I've come to expect. Sunday, the car drives fine.
To make a long story short, after all of this, the car now idles rough, hesitates, in fact when I hit the gas it lulls severly, almost as if it's going to die. This morning, thinking it's totally unrelated, my cruise control wasn' working. At lunch time, the car wouldn't even start. Time to go home, it starts and drives home all the way without any problems at all, and the fan no longer runs, and the cruise control works again.

I have the strong feeling that this is an electrical problem. What would give me all of these symptoms? Engine problems, cooling fan running, and cruise not working?

 

on the topic of heating. the heat and the ac system are not hot enough and not cold enough, respectively. I was reading the repair book and it said something about a cable that if u adjust the length you will get hotter or cooler air. is this true? and what is the best way to test/ fix the system without paying 500 bucs to the mechanic?