did the speedo go up to 125 or 145 mph?
that steering wheel came in both VG and 92 VE models without the airbag (Ive had a few)

 

Didn't see that before but my max starts w/o the clutch depressed. I only rewired like 6 wires or so. But just search around in the stickies and linked threads, Im sure theres plenty of info. I didn't have to ask too much about the swap.

~Alex

 

I couldn't tell you. That's the only pic I took of that car. I also took a picture of a 92 GXE that I bought a door hinge from, but that was an automatic. I think it was a 1990, which would have to be the VG, but that's just a guess on my part. As for the speedo, I don't know if it was even still present, but if it was, I wasn't looking at it. For me it was more of a "so this is what I'm missing out on by having an automatic" moment. But I know that the stuff in it is good, because the clutch felt normal, but the reaon I think the tranny is dead in that one is because the shifter wouldn't easily reach anything but the 3-4 gate properly... I really had to force it into 1-2 and 5--R, because I guess the insides of the tranny are shredded and mangled, which would make shifting said mess difficult.

As for the non-airbag-ness, I thought all 92 models had standard airbags. The car is of course an SE, because of the manual, but I didn't think the non-SRS 4-post steering wheel came on anything but the 1989-1991 SE's (the stupid 2-post crescent-shaped non-SRS wheel is what I have on my '90 GXE, but if I can find a burgundy non-SRS 4-post SE wheel, I'll gladly go for that... but then I don't know if the SE came with that interior color.)

 

I've had 2 92 SEs with that interior color and that steering wheel.

 

I plan to emulate the Park Neutral functionality by hooking stuff up to it. I'm going to wire the ASCD clutch switch into the one on the brake pedal if I can do that, and I'm going to use the clutch-interlock switch at the floorboard to make a connection between pins 1&3 to indicate neutral-startability, and I'm going to hope cruise control works, and if it doesn't, I'll play with it until it does. My goal is for it to be as close to a factory functionality as possible. I don't know if the switch should usually be set to Drive, or whatever, so that ASCD will work normally until you cancel it, or what I'll need to do there. But the reverse light should be simple enough. I'll just do some continuity testing and cross my fingers.

Lucky me, I've got a professional mechanic (he owns his own full shop) for an uncle just 2 hours east of me, and a week of paid vacation to spend down there swapping it, and breaking the clutch in. Then I'll be able to get used to my car before I have to come back home and use it like I normally do.

 

All thats covered in the threads Ive read before and included in what wiring I did. Its very easy. BUT replace the reverse/neutral sensor, pretty much all of them are bad and I believe they hold the tranny fluid in so replace it when it's dry. My reverse lights randomly work and cruise never does so I know its wired right just has a bad neutral sensor.

The only thing I didn't do was the clutch safety switch which isn't that hard to figure out.

~Alex

 

Meh, the clutch safety system isn't important, I left i out. You should also omit the "block and loopy lines thing" that goes between the master and slave cylinder. Blehmco SS clutch line FTW. At some point I may try and get rid of the neutral start safety switch. I hate idiot-proofed things...

 

the write-up that Danny and I and of other orgers that gave input r in the stickies. every bit of information is covered in there. i made the reverse light and cruise control work on mine and its as close to factory as possible. i didn't need to wire up the clutch since i don't like it but to each his own. there r lots of pics of the whole wirin' process in the write-up so print those out and that will make ur life or ur mechanics life a whole easier than just doin' continuity tests which will be delayin' u guys. so go to the stickies and print everything out.

 

Well if cruise control depends on the car being in L/2/D, and clutch starting needs to be in P or N, and reverse light needs to be in R... then I'd have to hardwire a Drive short, put the Neutral/Park shared short on the clutch switch, and put the reverse lights on the reverse short. Then it'd be in more than one gear at once according to the inhibitor switch but who cares. Pushing the clutch would kick ASCD off, and you can't get into N or R without pushing the clutch and taking it out of 5th or 4th or whatever you're in, so it's all good. In terms of the connector, I will hardwire pins 4-5 for Drive, wire 1-3 to the clutch switch, and wire 4-7 to the reverse light hookup on the manual transmission plug. And I guess I need to wire 2-4 to the Neutral indicator on the manual transmission plug, and to splice the ASCD clutch switch into the ASCD brake switch, (parallel or series, depending on the pedal-up state of the switch as being on or off). I'll test that and see.

 

NO YOU DONT!!!

Man did you read our posts? Come on the 5 speed sensors properly wired work perfect. All you have to do is look at the 5 speed swap thread in the stickies. I followed it exactly and my car works perfect! No need to go testing and rigging wires, with 6-8 wires re-soldered it works perfectly!

~Alex

 

my 91 MAXIMA (VG ENGINE!!!) auto tranny burned up. I pulled it, new flywheel, pilot bushing, clutch, mounts, backing plate, hydraulic lines, m/c, pedals, shift linkage and a TRANNY FROM A 1994 VE 5 SPEED, and it all bolted up and works fine. I went the extra mile, bought reman'ed axles, pressed in new hub bearings with VE inner splines, and it all worked out. I've been driving it for over 6 months now, trouble free. The only tranny that isn't interchangable is the VG tranny on a VE engine. As far as price range you can expect somewhere between 800 to 900 if you get the whole package from the junkyard, AND its a matching unit, meaning vg to vg or ve to ve. If you get the tranny and shifter linkage from the junkyard, and everything else you buy new or from other members here expect nothing less than 1300 to 1500. IF you **** up and get a vg tranny for a ve engine, sell your car and shoot yourself. IF you get a ve tranny for a vg, and you think you can do it, you'll spend in excess of 2000. this is from personal experience, as I have known a lot of people want the swaps done, especially with those crappy pumps on the auto trannys going out constantly. there is much support for these swaps, just look in the right places.

 

how hard is it to follow a couple of instructions on a write-up and not go off and test things when it is already given to u on-screen? my whole swap took me about 2-3 days. it would of taken less if i didn't have to work on those days and go back and forth to the junkyard to get the rest of the parts. i spent about $240 for my whole swap cuz i did it myself with the help of my dad. of course i had to buy him beer after it was done.

 

Sorry for bumping this but will this work on NZ maximas? There were no manual j30 maximas made in NZ so i'm thinking about i'mporting a manual transmission from the states.

I dont think there's any major differences between the US and NZ maxima apart from some cosmetic things so this conversion should work the same as converting a US maxima right?

 

Yes, there shouldn't be much differences in the swap, are you right hand drive, or left hand drive?

Useful information threads...

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ap-sticky.html

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/3

 

right hand drive and yeah sorry i found those pages not long after i made that post.

 

Does anyknow of any sites that have conversion kits for our maximas? I know of a few people in New Zealand that would bulk buy some kits.

 

This org sponsor might be able to help you, just shoot him a PM.

http://forums.maxima.org/members/used-parts.html

 

This is a bit of a noobish question but will the manual trans from a U13 bluebird (RS5F50A) bolt directly to our j30 maximas? I know the max uses the same transmission but ive been told it wont bolt up with no problems...

 

probably not. the bell housing bolt pattern is most likely different

 

even with our bellhousing?

 

well... the bellhousing side of the tranny case is what holds all the stuff anyways, so to do a 'bellhousing swap' it's really more of an 'internals swap' than anything else. the bellhousing isn't a separate part like it is on RWD trannies (or like the tc housing on maxima automatic trannies is), ie, the bellhsouing is part of the case. so the real question is 'will bluebird tranny internals fit a maxima tranny case?'

 

Hi, my friend's 89 auto just gave out and we want to put in a manual. I cannot find the sticky you are referring to, and the link to the guide sends me to a post about credit scores. I'd really appreciate it if you could direct me to the correct pages.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=293320 <--- this should be it. Hope this helps.

 

Hey, sorry for not responding, IDK why, but email notifications were turned off for me. Thanks so much for the help, my friend and I are gonna make sure that the auto is toast before we start the swap, but now we have a very good place to start, I'll be sure to let u know what happens =)

 

Ive seen a few 92 se maxima with the dohc motor With the non airbag steering wheel ( identifiable by no horn buttons in the spokes and cruise control on the horn pad instead of between the right spokes)so maybe wasn't required by law yet since they came with "passive restraint"(auto shoulder seatbelts) this is why I wasn't worried driving one of the maxima I bought with it's airbag blown and then the cover glued back together