VE rebuild...parts?
11-02-2002, 08:39 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,105
VE rebuild...parts?
any idea how much parts and machine shop fees would run me? i am capable of doing everything else with the help of an FSM.
would it be more worth my while to get a junkyard special and rebuild that? i was figuring 2 weeks of downtime at most (i'd be dedicating those 2 weeks to the max). i'd also like to frankenstein parts from other nissans if they could benefit me in any way (Z32 pistons? rods?.....stuff like that) and i'd like to upgrade as much as possible within the cost of genuine nissan parts (is there a stroker crank for VEs?).
i was thinking at most $1500-$2000 in parts, and probably $500-$600 in machine shop fees (depending what i have done).
TIA.
would it be more worth my while to get a junkyard special and rebuild that? i was figuring 2 weeks of downtime at most (i'd be dedicating those 2 weeks to the max). i'd also like to frankenstein parts from other nissans if they could benefit me in any way (Z32 pistons? rods?.....stuff like that) and i'd like to upgrade as much as possible within the cost of genuine nissan parts (is there a stroker crank for VEs?).
i was thinking at most $1500-$2000 in parts, and probably $500-$600 in machine shop fees (depending what i have done).
TIA.
11-02-2002, 09:26 AM
#2
plan 350 minimum just to have the heads rebuilt. since you're in there, you'll net more gains from having them do a little porting and polishing on the heads than you will to get better stuff elsewhere.
Z32 pistons and rods SHOULD be the exact same dimensions, but don't quote me on that.
Personally, unless you're going to run boost or bottle, then I wouldn't bother touching the bottom end if you don't have any problems with it now. yeah, it may have 200k miles on it, but most likely the cylinder walls still look like new if you've taken care of the engine..
Also rebuild/replace your VTCs while you're in there. it won't cost much more since you've got it all apart. rebuild kits are abou t$30 per sprocket.
check all your timing chain tensioners also. only replace the ones you need, as the entire set will run upwards of $500.
A top end rebuild kit (head gaskets, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve stem seals, and other mics gaskets you'll need to rebuild the head) all come in one kit from nissan. I've got the part # somewhere in the garage, but shoot courtesy a call and they'll have it in the computer. it's cheaper to buy the whole thing than to buy only the head and exhaust manifold gaskets. neato, eh?
Z32 pistons and rods SHOULD be the exact same dimensions, but don't quote me on that.
Personally, unless you're going to run boost or bottle, then I wouldn't bother touching the bottom end if you don't have any problems with it now. yeah, it may have 200k miles on it, but most likely the cylinder walls still look like new if you've taken care of the engine..
Also rebuild/replace your VTCs while you're in there. it won't cost much more since you've got it all apart. rebuild kits are abou t$30 per sprocket.
check all your timing chain tensioners also. only replace the ones you need, as the entire set will run upwards of $500.
A top end rebuild kit (head gaskets, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve stem seals, and other mics gaskets you'll need to rebuild the head) all come in one kit from nissan. I've got the part # somewhere in the garage, but shoot courtesy a call and they'll have it in the computer. it's cheaper to buy the whole thing than to buy only the head and exhaust manifold gaskets. neato, eh?
11-02-2002, 02:44 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2001
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Originally posted by Matt93SE
plan 350 minimum just to have the heads rebuilt. since you're in there, you'll net more gains from having them do a little porting and polishing on the heads than you will to get better stuff elsewhere.
Z32 pistons and rods SHOULD be the exact same dimensions, but don't quote me on that.
Personally, unless you're going to run boost or bottle, then I wouldn't bother touching the bottom end if you don't have any problems with it now. yeah, it may have 200k miles on it, but most likely the cylinder walls still look like new if you've taken care of the engine..
Also rebuild/replace your VTCs while you're in there. it won't cost much more since you've got it all apart. rebuild kits are abou t$30 per sprocket.
check all your timing chain tensioners also. only replace the ones you need, as the entire set will run upwards of $500.
A top end rebuild kit (head gaskets, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve stem seals, and other mics gaskets you'll need to rebuild the head) all come in one kit from nissan. I've got the part # somewhere in the garage, but shoot courtesy a call and they'll have it in the computer. it's cheaper to buy the whole thing than to buy only the head and exhaust manifold gaskets. neato, eh?
plan 350 minimum just to have the heads rebuilt. since you're in there, you'll net more gains from having them do a little porting and polishing on the heads than you will to get better stuff elsewhere.
Z32 pistons and rods SHOULD be the exact same dimensions, but don't quote me on that.
Personally, unless you're going to run boost or bottle, then I wouldn't bother touching the bottom end if you don't have any problems with it now. yeah, it may have 200k miles on it, but most likely the cylinder walls still look like new if you've taken care of the engine..
Also rebuild/replace your VTCs while you're in there. it won't cost much more since you've got it all apart. rebuild kits are abou t$30 per sprocket.
check all your timing chain tensioners also. only replace the ones you need, as the entire set will run upwards of $500.
A top end rebuild kit (head gaskets, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve stem seals, and other mics gaskets you'll need to rebuild the head) all come in one kit from nissan. I've got the part # somewhere in the garage, but shoot courtesy a call and they'll have it in the computer. it's cheaper to buy the whole thing than to buy only the head and exhaust manifold gaskets. neato, eh?
as far as porting the heads, i was planning to have that done anyway, so if there are any cams/bigger valves/whatever out there that'll keep the engine smooth and give me more power, i'm all ears.
as for the bottom end of the motor, i have a feeling i'm losing compression through something but i'm not sure what. oil smoke after its idling for a few minutes (only smokes when the throttle is stabbed) makes me think its worn valve seals, but last night i ran a friend whom i should be beating quite easily as i have more mods and working VI (and my VTCs aren't making the same noise his are..mine sound like healthy lifters, his sound like clatter), and we were dead even through first, he pulled a little bit in second, i gained it back and then a tiny bit (we're talking gains of a few inches) by the top of third. i mean, jesus, we shifted to second and third at the same time, i revved out 3rd 100rpm or so higher. another friend has a sneaking suspicion that when his 240sx was rebuilt, the compression was lowered with intentions of boosting but had to sell instead (now my friend is going to boost it, he just wants to check everything). and yes i do plan to run boost, but only very low as i'd like to keep my stock compression.
matt, i know this was talked about in a few other threads, and nismo87se concluded that SR20 valve springs should fit on a VE, allowing it to rev higher. what can be done to extend the power band to say 7500rpm? i was planning an S-AFC type controller (possibly V-AFC to control VTC and VI if thats at all possible) to change the rev limit, but i'm not sure how high it'll allow for. i'm trying to stay away from a JWT ECU or the like as much as possible not only to learn, but i'd be happier with the project if i said that i tuned everything myself.
i think it'd be easier for me if i talked to you over IM so i could get some realtime feedback before i start looking up pricing and what not. my AIM is "beakmoney", i'm always on.
thanks again
P.S. i'm doing as much work on my own as possible, if i get in a jam, i can always ask one of my instructors as i'm going to a tech school for auto mechanics (which is where i've gained my new found confidence in working on my car...yesterday i assembled a block and heads in about 2 hours..granted there werent any specs defined except the main bearing cap torque but that wouldn't have taken much longer if at all..)
11-02-2002, 02:50 PM
#4
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,208
Can I ask a bit of a n00b question while you guys are on the topic? I know what the top end of the engine consists of, but when people talk about building the bottom end.. what parts are including in "the bottom end" exactly.
11-02-2002, 02:54 PM
#5
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Originally posted by pezking4
Can I ask a bit of a n00b question while you guys are on the topic? I know what the top end of the engine consists of, but when people talk about building the bottom end.. what parts are including in "the bottom end" exactly.
Can I ask a bit of a n00b question while you guys are on the topic? I know what the top end of the engine consists of, but when people talk about building the bottom end.. what parts are including in "the bottom end" exactly.
11-02-2002, 02:57 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,208
Originally posted by MaDMaX024
i've been on this forum for a few years now and i still dont exactly know. as far as i know (and correct me if i'm wrong) but take the motor, since you know what the topend is (heads, intake), everthing from there down (crank, pistons, rods, block, oil pan, bearings..there isnt much else, is there?) is the bottom end.
i've been on this forum for a few years now and i still dont exactly know. as far as i know (and correct me if i'm wrong) but take the motor, since you know what the topend is (heads, intake), everthing from there down (crank, pistons, rods, block, oil pan, bearings..there isnt much else, is there?) is the bottom end.
11-03-2002, 09:25 AM
#7
I would highly suggest doing a compression/leakdown test before you mess with anything. that'll tell you where the problem is on the engine. if it's in the heads, then yank them off the car and rebuild them. if it's in the rings, then yank the whole engine and rebuild it.
11-03-2002, 09:27 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2001
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Originally posted by Matt93SE
I would highly suggest doing a compression/leakdown test before you mess with anything. that'll tell you where the problem is on the engine. if it's in the heads, then yank them off the car and rebuild them. if it's in the rings, then yank the whole engine and rebuild it.
I would highly suggest doing a compression/leakdown test before you mess with anything. that'll tell you where the problem is on the engine. if it's in the heads, then yank them off the car and rebuild them. if it's in the rings, then yank the whole engine and rebuild it.
theres not too much that would go wrong in the bottom end if its all currently in good shape. maybe that money could be used for a tranny..haha