VE vs. VG UDPs
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VE vs. VG UDPs
I was doing a search on UDPs because it's time to replace my VG timing belt. Apparently rpmoutlet.com has the UDP for $99 but I want to make sure I order the right one. Is there a difference between the UDP for a VE and a UDP for a VG? Also, rpmoutlet.com only lists the UDP for 90-94 Maximas. Wouldn't a UDP for a VE or a VG be the same for all years of the 3rd gen max?
Originally posted by Nismomaxt
Well, most importantly the VG uses a timing belt where as the VE uses a timing chain.
Well, most importantly the VG uses a timing belt where as the VE uses a timing chain.
Anyways, good info.
Re: VE vs. VG UDPs
Originally posted by dancer
I was doing a search on UDPs because it's time to replace my VG timing belt. Apparently rpmoutlet.com has the UDP for $99 but I want to make sure I order the right one. Is there a difference between the UDP for a VE and a UDP for a VG? Also, rpmoutlet.com only lists the UDP for 90-94 Maximas. Wouldn't a UDP for a VE or a VG be the same for all years of the 3rd gen max?
I was doing a search on UDPs because it's time to replace my VG timing belt. Apparently rpmoutlet.com has the UDP for $99 but I want to make sure I order the right one. Is there a difference between the UDP for a VE and a UDP for a VG? Also, rpmoutlet.com only lists the UDP for 90-94 Maximas. Wouldn't a UDP for a VE or a VG be the same for all years of the 3rd gen max?
Originally posted by John in Philly
Has anyone bought the ASP for their VE? Is it worth it? How hard is the install?
Has anyone bought the ASP for their VE? Is it worth it? How hard is the install?
Originally posted by John in Philly
Has anyone bought the ASP for their VE? Is it worth it? How hard is the install?
Has anyone bought the ASP for their VE? Is it worth it? How hard is the install?
2. Remove the passenger side front tire.(Use a jackstand)
3. Loosen the AC Idler pulley. It is located to the left of the front valve cover. There is a nut on the front of the pulley that locks it in place. Loosen this one first. There is a second nut that is on top of the bracket that the pulley is mounted to. When you loosen that one, the pulley should move down some allowing you to remove the AC belt.
4. Get under the car and loosen the alternator adjustment bolt and remove the belt.
5. Loosen the Power steering/Water Pump belt. It is similar to the AC belt, but it is under the car and upside down. (bracket below pulley)
6. Remove the crank bolt (27mm). This is hard if you don't have an impact wrench. If you don't though. GEt in the car and put it into 5th gear. Then have a friend (or a phone book, or a torque wrench or a breaker bar) to hold the brake pedal down. Get a long breaker bar and remove the bolt.
7. After the bolt is off, the pulley should come off (yeah right). I had to use a set of gear pullers to get it off on my VG, but my VE one did just fall off (weird).
8. Put the new pulley on (use anti-seize), and install the new belts and tighten them back up and your done
Originally posted by John in Philly
D-sta- I got a VE so thanks for the info on the ASP, I'm gonna seriously consider it.
blackandwhite- Question on #6. Suppose I don't have an impact wrench and unfortunately I got an auto?
D-sta- I got a VE so thanks for the info on the ASP, I'm gonna seriously consider it.
blackandwhite- Question on #6. Suppose I don't have an impact wrench and unfortunately I got an auto?
I was working on my friends Probe and what we did to get off the pulley was put the breaker bar on the bolt. Then rotated the engine so that the bar was agaist the LCA. Then bump the starter and the bolt came right loose. Worked like a charm.
John
John
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WoodEar
General Maxima Discussion
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Jan 8, 2004 01:28 PM
Andrew91SE
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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Nov 26, 2000 03:05 AM




So I replaced the seal and put the stock back on.
