manifold studs snapped
#4
Re: problem
OK, heres the deal. If the stud is broke off in the head then I suggest pulling the head. It takes some time but its nearly impossible to drill a broke stud out of the rear. Im doing this job this weekend. I have a broke stud in my rear head and from what research Ive done removing the head is just about the only way. If you want to wait a week Ill be able to give you a more productive answer.
Dano
Dano
#5
Yeah every 3rd gen Maxima is going to have this happen sooner or later. You on't HAVE to yank the head to do it right, but it makes it a whole lot easier to drill them out. Just removing the head is a lot of work though. Some shops will get them fixed for a cheap rate. Take it around to a few shops for estimates. Which engine do you have?
#6
OK check this out my mechanic did something that left me amazed for my front studs. he got to where the stud is he solder and solder and more solder around the broken stud the he put a nut at the end of the solder so he soldered the nut so it make look like a regular stud. after that put a lot dw30 he took it right off. all this we you solder it doesnt get stuck to the he cuz its aluminun all the solder sticks right on the broken stud.
#7
Re: Re: problem
Originally posted by Nismomaxt
OK, heres the deal. If the stud is broke off in the head then I suggest pulling the head. It takes some time but its nearly impossible to drill a broke stud out of the rear. Im doing this job this weekend. I have a broke stud in my rear head and from what research Ive done removing the head is just about the only way. If you want to wait a week Ill be able to give you a more productive answer.
Dano
OK, heres the deal. If the stud is broke off in the head then I suggest pulling the head. It takes some time but its nearly impossible to drill a broke stud out of the rear. Im doing this job this weekend. I have a broke stud in my rear head and from what research Ive done removing the head is just about the only way. If you want to wait a week Ill be able to give you a more productive answer.
Dano
I have never performed this repair myself, but I think that you would be creating a lot more work than is necessary. Pulling the cylinder heads is expensive and very time consuming. The head gaskets alone will cost you at least $100 (but probably over $250) not to mention another ~$175 for all of the other gaskets and o-rings you have to replace. And of course, the timing belt has to come off as well as the cam sprockets. Not to mention the costs of speciality tools.
#8
Re: manifold studs snapped
Originally posted by REYMAX77
has anyone had there bolts snapped. i had to replace 2 front now i have to do the back i hear its a pain in the a**.
has anyone had there bolts snapped. i had to replace 2 front now i have to do the back i hear its a pain in the a**.
Just make sure you have the manifold checked at a machine shop to ensure it is not warped before you put it back on. Dont be lazy, get everything replaced such as gaskets, washers, and studs.
If it is warped, you cant mill it properly. A new manifold is $187 at Courtesy. My dealer in PHX matched their price because I mentioned I found them on the net.
#9
Re: Re: manifold studs snapped
Considering Im doing all the work myself, I dont have to worry about how much the work will be. I really dont see any way to get the broken stud out of the rear head when the stud is broke inside the head. Theres nothing sticking out. Theres no way to get a drill into that tiny space. If you have broken studs in the rear then the safest way is by pulling the head. I just ordered JWT cams today so Ill be pulling the intake plenum anyway. Ive brought it to many shops and Ive had nothing less than 1000 dollars for all estimates. Im amazed that someone here found a shop that 1)had to drill all 12 studs, 2)did it for 571 dollars. Wish I could find a shop like that.
#10
Re: Re: Re: manifold studs snapped
Originally posted by Nismomaxt
Considering Im doing all the work myself, I dont have to worry about how much the work will be. I really dont see any way to get the broken stud out of the rear head when the stud is broke inside the head. Theres nothing sticking out. Theres no way to get a drill into that tiny space. If you have broken studs in the rear then the safest way is by pulling the head. I just ordered JWT cams today so Ill be pulling the intake plenum anyway. Ive brought it to many shops and Ive had nothing less than 1000 dollars for all estimates. Im amazed that someone here found a shop that 1)had to drill all 12 studs, 2)did it for 571 dollars. Wish I could find a shop like that.
Considering Im doing all the work myself, I dont have to worry about how much the work will be. I really dont see any way to get the broken stud out of the rear head when the stud is broke inside the head. Theres nothing sticking out. Theres no way to get a drill into that tiny space. If you have broken studs in the rear then the safest way is by pulling the head. I just ordered JWT cams today so Ill be pulling the intake plenum anyway. Ive brought it to many shops and Ive had nothing less than 1000 dollars for all estimates. Im amazed that someone here found a shop that 1)had to drill all 12 studs, 2)did it for 571 dollars. Wish I could find a shop like that.
I got lucky on the mechanic. He is a friend of my family and has worked on our cars for the past 20 years.
#11
Re: Re: Re: Re: manifold studs snapped
Well I live in Hawaii so unless you haver a hook up for something then expect to pay out the ***. Ive got people for everything but car mechanics. Dyno would be good but Id be paying out the *** for it because I dont have a hook up for that either...working on it. I have a feeling Ill be on here a lot this weekend with big subjects lines reading "HELP!"
Dano
Dano
#12
How do you know if one of your studs is broken??
I know that replacing the old studs with new "turbo" studs will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Does anyone know the part # for the exact Z32 turbo studs.
How hard is it to change these studs yourself??
Thanks
I know that replacing the old studs with new "turbo" studs will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Does anyone know the part # for the exact Z32 turbo studs.
How hard is it to change these studs yourself??
Thanks
#13
Originally posted by AKAICEBERG
How do you know if one of your studs is broken??
I know that replacing the old studs with new "turbo" studs will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Does anyone know the part # for the exact Z32 turbo studs.
How hard is it to change these studs yourself??
Thanks
How do you know if one of your studs is broken??
I know that replacing the old studs with new "turbo" studs will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Does anyone know the part # for the exact Z32 turbo studs.
How hard is it to change these studs yourself??
Thanks
#14
Originally posted by RosenKen
the turbo stud thing is an urban legend in the 3rd gen forum. All new exhaust studs for the 3rd gen Maxima you buy from Nissan are upgraded to the same strength. The studs are pretty easy to change if they aren't broken. That is, if you don't have monstrous hands since some of them are pretty hard to reach and you have to work by feel.
the turbo stud thing is an urban legend in the 3rd gen forum. All new exhaust studs for the 3rd gen Maxima you buy from Nissan are upgraded to the same strength. The studs are pretty easy to change if they aren't broken. That is, if you don't have monstrous hands since some of them are pretty hard to reach and you have to work by feel.
Thanks
#15
Originally posted by AKAICEBERG
Thanks...I eventually would like to change mine just to be safe. Do you know of any write ups on how to replace the studs?? I'm not even sure how many there are or even where there located.
Thanks
Thanks...I eventually would like to change mine just to be safe. Do you know of any write ups on how to replace the studs?? I'm not even sure how many there are or even where there located.
Thanks
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#17
Originally posted by aeubank
Question for those of you that have replaced the rear studs:
Has anyone tried using a right angled drill to drill the studs out?
Just a question.
Question for those of you that have replaced the rear studs:
Has anyone tried using a right angled drill to drill the studs out?
Just a question.
1. Not enough pressure to drill at a right angle
2. Even if you did drill the hole, how would you get the EZ out in?
Not flaming on you, just being realistic. Its a serious pain.
I say pull the motor, replace the motor mounts, and anything else you can do while the engine is out.
#18
Originally posted by 5spd92SE
Good idea. A couple problems though:
1. Not enough pressure to drill at a right angle
2. Even if you did drill the hole, how would you get the EZ out in?
Not flaming on you, just being realistic. Its a serious pain.
I say pull the motor, replace the motor mounts, and anything else you can do while the engine is out.
Good idea. A couple problems though:
1. Not enough pressure to drill at a right angle
2. Even if you did drill the hole, how would you get the EZ out in?
Not flaming on you, just being realistic. Its a serious pain.
I say pull the motor, replace the motor mounts, and anything else you can do while the engine is out.
I'm pretty thick skinned. Just wanted to know if anyone's tried a right angle drill and had any success. But, pull the engine. This is the first I've heard about that..
#19
The thing that's great about the aluminum heads is that you can weld a couple of washers together and tack on a nut and then weld it to the broken stud and PB blast that stud and then take it out like a regular bolt. There's no need to drill. Cost us like $5 to take the heads to our machine shop and have them extracted and we watched how they did it.
Of course, we had the heads off for HG replacement anyways.
Chris
Of course, we had the heads off for HG replacement anyways.
Chris
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